WAVES OF MISFORTUNE

Friday, September 25th @ 13:21

Kevin

I suppose we should have taken it as a sign of things to come when on our first morning in the Bukit Peninsula we were rocked by a 5.8 earthquake. It was our first ever and we really did not know what to make of it. And, by the time we figured it out, it was already over. The Balinese take them very seriously and seem to feel even the most minute disturbances. Jack was the only one with common sense enough to stand inside the doorway. At first I thought it was just a strong wind shaking the door, but the following freight train effect squashed that idea.

We arrived in the Bukit Peninsula at around noon after a short ride from where we were staying in Legian Beach. After breakfast, we loaded up the motorbike with the surfboard, one backpack containing our combined essentials, and ourselves. Learning a lesson from our trip to Madewi, we decided to leave one bag behind at the losmen in Legian that we would be returning to for our last couple of days in Bali. We decided to head straight to the famed point of Uluwatu at the southwest corner of the peninsula.

We had met a really great young couple from England, Jack and Charlotte, while in Madewi. After hanging out for a couple of days we realized our plans were similar and we decided to try and meet up again if we could. Jack had given us some loose directions to a place they stayed that they really enjoyed. By pure chance alone, we found it and checked in not knowing if it was even the right place or that Jack and Charlotte would be moving in right next door about an hour later as Idalis and I were out exploring the area. A knock on the door later that afternoon would confirm their arrival, our locating the right place and our subsequent reunion.



Having jack and Charlotte around would mean that I would have a surfing buddy and Idalis someone to hang out with while I was out. On our first morning in Uluwatu, the morning of the earthquake, Jack and I decided we would paddle out. Uluwatu is not only a very famous break, but also a very tricky one. It requires you to climb down a chasm, through a cave and, if at low tide, over a shelf reef to get to the lineup. There are three take off points; “the point”, “corners”, and “racetracks” and I had never seen a picture of the place less than head high.



All factors combine to make Uluwatu a very heavy spot. Most challenging is the return trip where you must fight current, waves and crowds to navigate back into the relatively small opening of the cave. After two and a half hours of incredible and memorable surf, jack and I would agree to work our way back in. After one failed attempt, I narrowly made it back into the opening, missing the last chance boulder by what seemed like inches. Jack would not be so lucky. After waiting inside the cave for a long while, watching people exiting and entering being battered by the tumultuous shore pound, I began to worry about Jack. I would walk out as far as I could go but without paddling out the vantage point is limited to the cave opening. I would then climb out of the cave to see if I could get a better view. After not seeing him, I headed back down to finally find him putting his board in its protective sock. The damage would not be visible at first.

It wasn't until meeting back up on the top side of the cave that I saw the blood and the blank expression. Jack wold be less fortunate navigating back into the cave opening and would be swept by the incredibly strong current back out and around onto the cliff side rocks where his body and board would take a severe beating until a local would assist him with finding a channel to paddle back in. The lane to the cave is lined with surf shops, photography shops and ding repair shops who are all too eager and willing to solicit your business. Part convenient, part opportunistic. The famous “Cookie” would get the repair job for Jack's board and after a bit of haggling, two new fin plugs and a peppering of holes, scrapes and punctures would cost an even 100 US dollars to repair. The effect to poor Jack's psyche and optimism would be far more costly. But, he would clean up, go have some breakfast and move on.

The weather in the Bukit would change the normally dry and arid plateau into cool, cloudy and rainy and the swell would drop, so much in fact that scouring the coast would turn up nothing ridable, with the exception of Uluwatu which would be small, and because it was the only place working, super crowded. We would opt to take a day off to rest and recuperate. Jack and I would, however, take time in the afternoon, at low tide, to check out the break at Dreamland.



It is here that the unthinkable would happen...again! In just the few minutes it took us to walk down to the cliff edge, scour the horizon and decide that it was not worth paddling out, someone would break into the locked compartment under the seat of my motorbike and steal our camera, case and 266,000 rupiah (about $26). Not noticing at first, it wasn't until I went to retrieve it later that evening for the scheduled Kacek dance performance that I would be introduced to that sinking feeling that I know all too well. Violated...again! In the hands of some stranger would be countless memories and magic moments digitally captured to one day remind us of our great journey. If there was a bright side, it was that most of the images were backed up and instead of losing five countries worth of photos, we would lose our time in Bali and our trip to Gunung Bromo. Unfortunately, a sour taste that will linger for some time and tip the overall balance of our Bali experience.

But wait folks, that's not all! Knowing that there was little to no chance of getting back our camera and having recently renewed our travel insurance, we decided to at least file a police report to submit in the interest of recouping at least the physical loss of the camera. We hope to now replace it with a waterproof one, perhaps another positive result of the loss. We managed to find the local polisi (police) station in Uluwatu, only to be told by the officer we awoke from his slumber in front of the blaring television that he did not prepare reports and we would have to travel to the opposite side of the peninsula and file at the main tourist police station. So, after an hour or so of driving, we arrived in the town of Nusa Dua and finally found the police station. We would address the officer at the counter and explain our predicament. He would send me out to fetch a copy of my passport before taking us in a back room for questioning. He would complete the report, print it out and give it the official stamp before asking us for a 50,000 rupiah “administrative” fee, which I was willing to pay. Idalis, however, having become a most seasoned dare I say hardened, traveler insisted that we would need a receipt to prove to our insurance company that we were charged an “administration” fee. After some humming and hawing and an apparent consultation with his comrades it was determined that the fee was still due and no receipt was available. I then requested to use a pen and paper and attempted to write out as official a phrase as I could to have him type onto the report and sign. After a bit more jossling, he must have finally given in and told us, “report free for you...you go now!” He could not be rid of us fast enough and we could not believe our misfortune would be frosted with an attempted extortion.

That evening, Jack and I would return to Dreamland, the site of the theft, and surf a great session as well as again the next morning before heading out, as a convoy, to Ubud. For us, a much needed retreat back to a place full of fond memories, fine food, fun adventures and valuable time with our friend Noah and his parents. For Jack and Charlotte, a first encounter with a locale that was a highlight of our time in Bali. After a couple of days here, in Ubud where we currently sit, we will all once again carry on back to Legian Beach where Jack and I hope to surf and Idalis and Charlotte hope to laze on the beach and all of us hope to work hard to turn the tides of our terrible misfortunes and attempt to leave Bali on a wave of fond memories.



Post Scripts...


1.Sorry for the long post, lots to say.
2.Our attempts to change our fate are being challenged. Since writing this post, we successfully traveled from Ubud back to Legian. However, on the way, we were unfortunate enough to have another run in with “the law”. We, the obvious foreigners, were picked out from a large crowd of motorists for making an illegal right hand turn. An attempt to extort us was exercised, however, having already one encounter under my belt, I firmly stood my ground and refused to pay, citing that we were one of many that made the turn and that no one else was stopped. I pointed out that we were wearing our helmets, I used my indicator and that I had a valid International Driving Permit. All charges were dropped and we were let go without paying a cent of the 100,000 rupiah asking price.
3.Thanks to all of you who sent messages of concern regarding the earthquake. As you now know, we are alive and well and are able to brag about both experiencing our first earthquake and adding another disaster survival story to our repertoire.
4.Sorry to all of you whom I promised surf photos. The ones attached are compliments of Jack and Charlotte. Thanks guys for hooking us up with the great pics!
5.With this post also concludes five and one half months in SE Asia. It has been an amazing ride with incredible adventures, experiences and emotions. It is an area of the world that offers so much to travelers and one we hope to visit again in the not so distant future. We will soon head on to Australia where we will rendezvous with our friend Nic and tour the eastern half of this very large island. To all the people that we met who helped us along the way, showed us the true spirit of hospitality and shared of themselves, we thank you. It was an experience that we will not soon forget!
6.Last but not least and on a more somber note, we would like to notify everyone of the passing of our beloved Aphrodite. After thirteen years of incredible compassion, friendship and loyalty, she was laid to rest after battling with severe and debilitating arthritis and neurological damage from previous seizures. She was the most amazing companion and filled everyone's life that she touched with sunshine. She was graciously and lovingly cared for in her final days by her grandparents (Gary and Carmela), her Aunt (ReAnne) and her cousin (Jeremy) who constantly shrouded her in their most amazing and abundant love and affection. She will be missed!