Kevin
Where in the world can you sit and watch a Chinese opera being performed in front of a Hindu temple that is flanked by a Catholic cathedral and a Muslim Mosk after enjoying an authentic Malay meal, prepared by a Tamil cook and served by Achean waiter in a restaurant, guarded by Nepalese security and owned by a Buddhist Hakkien expat? Malaysia, that's where. And more specifically, the small, turtle shaped island of Panang, located off the northwest corner of the mainland. A virtual melting pot of culture, Panang was an important port town and part of the major trade routes of earlier centuries. Now, more of a tourist destination, Panang still houses the same amount of diversity that it did when settled by several different ethnic groups, all wanting in on a piece of the trading action. Malaysia thrives on diversity and seems to do it very well. The harmonious co-existence of so many people from so many different cultural backgrounds seems to be done so effortlessly and with little to no conflict or friction. Each segment of the community providing its own specialty, each woven together to provide a most interesting and eclectic mix of culture, music, architecture and food, let us not forget the food. A fusion of Indian, Chinese and Malay, the culinary combinations of Malaysia are unrivaled and offer the most all encompassing array of flavors, scents and tastes. A veritable cornucopia of delights that are sure to satisfy even the most discerning of pallets.
Those of you who have been following this blog know by now that we are a couple of foodie freaks. So, when our visit to Penang was extended to a full week to ensure that we had plenty of time to sample each of the local favorites you'll understand. Here are just a “few” of the specialties on order: Char Kwat Teow – rice noodles stir fried with egg, veggies, shrimp, chicken and sausage in soy sauce / Chee Cheong Fun – dim sum rice noodles rolled and steamed with prawns and chilli sauce / Curry Mee – curly egg noodles in coconut curry soup with bean sprouts and prawn / Hokkien Mee – Spicy pork broth soup with noodles, bean sprouts, pork and egg / Laksa Asam – fish broth soup with sour tamarind paste and mint served with thick noodles / Rojak – fruit and vegetable salad with sauce of peanuts, sesame seeds and chillies / Mee Goreng – Fried noodles / Nasi Goreng – Fried rice / Nasi Lemak – coconut rice with egg, chilli paste and fried anchovies (breakfast!) / Roti Canai – thin flaky flat bread with spicy lentil curry / Roti Bom – thin flaky flat bread made with egg and sugar (breakfast alternative). And, for desert, there is shaved ice in the form of Chendol, which is mixed with coconut milk, green sweetened pea flour, and brown sugar syrup, or (my personal favorite) ABC, which comes with ice cream, tapioca balls, peanuts, corn, grass jelly and flavored sugar water that comes in fluorescent colors (sounds gross, taste great!). Mouth watering yet?
In between bouts of gastro saturation we actually had time remaining to visit many of the interesting, and not so interesting, sites and tourist attractions. Among the most interesting were the religious structures, such as Wat Chayamangkalaram, built on land granted by Queen Victoria and containing a gold plated statue of the reclining Buddha measuring 33 meters in length and the Dharmikarama Burmese Temple across the street, which we dubbed the Buddha Amusement Park for all the animated and automated features, including the rotating alms bowls that would challenge you to sink a sen (Malay cent) into. There was also the Kek Lok Si Temple, or Temlple of Supreme Bliss, with its “Pagoda of Ten Thousand Buddhas”, not to mention the solid bronze, 30.2 meter statue of Kuan Yin. Rounding out the group was the Mahamariamman Hindu Temple, the beautiful and impressive Kapitan Keling Mosque, built in Moghul style, the Church of St. George and The Cathedral of the Assumption. Last, but not least, the dozen or so Buddhist Temples scattered around town and representing each of the distinctive Chinese clans that were early settlers to Penang Island, the most impressive being Khoo Kongsi (Whew!).
It's not all fun and religion though, there was also other interests, such as the clan jetties, which are essentially floating homes that extend out on piers and served the Chinese clan families, mentioned above, that chose to live close to the port for purposes of trade. Not to be left out are the numerous colonial contributions, compliments of the English, who have, coincidentally, left their mark everywhere, The City Hall building, Town Hall building, Penang State Museum, the Botanical Garden and most of all, Penang Hill, located 830 meters above sea level and accessed by the slow going, standing room only funicular (“fun” being in the name) train. At the summit there is a flower garden, mini bird park, guest house, canopy walk (closed for repairs) and, you guessed it, a mosque and a Hindu Temple.
Ironically, Penang is most known for its beaches and its coastal areas are lined up with one high rise resort after another. Unfortunately, or fortunately, we never made it to the beach. Why, with so much to do, see and eat we just couldn't find the time!
