ALL ROADS LEAD TO RHODES

Kevin Thursday, October 24th at 18:32

I am happy to report that we survived the marathon ferry trip from Santorini to Rhodes. Against my better judgment, we decided to eat dinner on the boat in the midst of the tumult. It was both entertaining and challenging, oh, and surprisingly tasty! I wouldn't usually report about ferry food, but we had a delicious Greek salad and some sort of lamb stew with potatoes and eggplant. And, it was cheaper than most meals we eat out. Anyways, we arrived, past schedule of course, in Rhodes City, in the far east end of the island of Rhodes, or Rodos in Greek, at about 23:00. We have been conditioned to somewhat dislike evening entries into unknown territories. The Gods seem to have smiled on us, yet again, and provided us with a smooth transition into our new location in exchange for a grueling sea passage. We exited the ferry and noticed that surprisingly, there was again only one cab, and oddly enough, the driver seemed to be in no hurry to secure a fare. In fact, he even rejected our offer. Idalis then found a transport shuttle that would take you to the taxi station and just as she was inquiring with the shuttle driver, he closed the door and began to drive away. We tossed up our hands and decided to just walk. After all, how bad could it be and after surviving a night landing in Morocco, we could do anything. We had a hardy laugh when we realized that the shuttle to the taxi stand was already headed back towards us after its, I don't know, two hundred yard journey, at best. As it turned out, the taxi station was right outside of the port gates. We hailed a taxi with a very friendly driver, no sarcasm here, and were escorted to the Gate of San Francisco, also known as Saint Atanasiou Gate. This was the landmark that we needed to find our way to the Pink Elephant Pension, where we had our reservation. We learned that the taxis, and most other vehicles for that matter, were not permitted within the walls of the medieval city of Rhodes. So, we exited the cab after our five minute, six Euro ride, and began our entrance into the city of Rhodes.

First, sight of the solid twelve meter thick wall, next, a blast of incredible energy, then, a view at the historic mote, and last, an entrance into the medieval city of Rodos, an entrance fit for a King, and probably used by one. A quick right on the first cobble stone street then a left on the third little cobblestone street and we had arrived at the Pink Elephant Pension. The Pink Elephant resides in a building that is 800 years old. Try to digest for a minute, as Idalis and I did. This building has been in existence longer than the United States of America! Anyways, the owner, Maria, stayed awake long enough to meet us and see us in safely. Maria is originally from Italy and purchased the pension five years ago. As she explains, it was her escape from the corporate world of marketing and advertising in Milan and a way to attain a clean bill of health. She gave us our key with the elephant pendant key chain and invited us to breakfast the following morning.

After a wonderful sleep in a stationary bed, we awoke to breakfast on the terrace consisting of fresh yogurt with honey, grapes, plums, tangerines, and a selection of various breads and cookies with jam, and dare I forget, fresh coffee, a whole liter of the good stuff. We slowly enjoyed our meal and then headed out to explore the medieval city. The streets are incredibly narrow, you can touch buildings on each side at the same time, and lined with flat smooth river type stones that are laid on end, side by side, so that just the tops serve as the wearing surface. Those surfaces are polished, usually in the center, by the generations of feet that have brushed against them. The city of Rhodes has two areas, one known as the new town and one known as the old town. Several people display stickers and signs that pledge their adoration of the old town. Either way, the old town is VERY old and the new town very new, cosmopolitan and bustling.

The old town is completely surrounded by a series of up to three walls, in some sections, that per my estimation, are at least fifty feet high. These walls are separated by a moat, that never actually contained water but still contains stone spheres used as weapons when the Turks invaded. One tradition says that the island of Rhodes is said to have emerged from the sea, by order of Zeus, as a present to Apollo. Another says that it was inhabited by Telhines and named after Helios' wife, Rhodes. It was said to be the most fertile of the Greek islands and blessed with beautiful weather. Archaeologists say that it was first inhabited during the Neolithic period (6000-3000BC), while in the second millennium BC the Achaians settled on the islands. In the 10th century BC, the Dorians arrived and established the three main cities, Lindos, Kameiros and Ialisos. In the 6th and 7th centuies BC, it was controlled by an aristocracy headed by one of the seven wise men of antiquity, Kleovoulos. In the 5th century, the Persians, the 4th century by either Athens of Sparta, in 332 BC by Macedonia, then defended from Demetrius the Besieger, which prompted the construction of the “Colossus of Rhodes”, which was one of the seven ancient wonders of the world and only survived a few years to be toppled by an earthquake. Then came the Romans and the Byzantines, the Arabs and the Moavias and then the Venetians, who have been everywhere and left walls, fortresses and lighthouses to prove it. In 1309, the Order of the Knights of St. John took over and perhaps had the most influence in what is visible here today, but were also eventually defeated and forced to surrender at the hands of the Turkish Sultan, Suleiman the Magnificent. The history continues from here, but this is just a small history lesson to demonstrate the amazing amount of history that is so typical of Greece and the overwhelming amount of influences that can be witnessed.

When walking through the streets of Rhodes City, one finds it hard to believe that they are even in Greece. It is the oldest inhabited medieval town in Europe and it is not hard to picture horses trotting down the narrow pebble streets, or knights returning from battle with metal armor clanking. This city has a new harbor that accommodates visiting cruise ships as well as an historic port that was one of the most powerful and sought after in the Aegean sea. There is a sense of magic and mystery that permeates this town and it has so much to offer. I almost feel ashamed at my ignorance when I think that Idalis and I only considered this island as a convenient jump off point for our arrival to Turkey. Our stay here has been incredible and has included strolling through the narrow, winding streets, walking along the top of the defense walls and at the base of the mote, eating incredible Greek cuisine with tastes of varying influences and even taking some sun at the local beach and jumping of the diving tower that emerges from out of the water a few yards off shore.

What was originally intended to be a mere week's stay in Greece has turned into a month. This country is so incredible and has so much to offer. The variations in characters, sites, climates, excursions and landscapes is mind boggling. We have truly enjoyed our stay here. This will be our last destination in Europe as we leave for Turkey on Friday afternoon, on yet another ferry. As sad as we are to leave, we are also happy to move on and continue our journey. To all of the incredible people we have met and amazing adventures that we have experienced, we would like to say “efharisto”, or thank you, it has been a life changing experience that we will not soon forget.
Oh yes, and by the way, there is one more reason why I will not soon forget Greece, and more specifically, Rhodes. It is because it is where I met Anestis and his magical shears. As a result of his artistry, the landscape of my head has gone under a drastic reformation. I no longer belong to the tribe of the longhairians. Please see below...

SHADES OF SANTORINI

Idalis: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 8:24 PM

The island of Santorini is a beautiful freak of nature. In the 17th century BC, a volcano on the island erupted, which was so intense that it may have been responsible for wiping out the Minoan civilization, and definitely changing the landscape of the island forever. Earliest indications show that the island of Santorini was originally close to a perfect circle. After the eruption, and many years of evolution, all that remains is the main crescent island and four small adjacent outlying islands, including the volcano that started it all, Nea Kameni. The result is breathtaking: a beautiful caldera, where homes sit precariously perched atop a jagged mountainside, or caldera (meaning crater) . It is one of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen, which is why I suppose Kevin and I had to share it with hordes of other tourists!

It is only befitting that an island created out of such chaos and destruction would provide such a chaotic welcoming to us. Let me explain. Kevin and I had booked a room on Santorini over the internet while we were still in Crete. Lignos Hotel, although devoid of the famous caldera views, promised free breakfast and better yet, free transport from the port that was 10 kilometers away from the city center of Fira. To facilitate this we were asked, via e-mail, to provide our ferry information and approximate time of arrival, which Kevin and I dutifully did. When we realized at the port of Iraklio, Crete, that our ferry was running late, Kevin and I did the responsible thing and notified the hotel, via e-mail (and tried by phone) to let them know that we would be arriving later than originally expected in Santorini. We thought this would be enough.

It was not.

We arrived at the Santorini port at around midnight, almost two hours behind schedule. It was dark, late, and the man holding a sign that said “Lignos Hotel” was nowhere to be found. We asked the other people at the port, the other passengers, taxi drivers: No Lignos Hotel. We frantically tried calling with our cell phone, as by this time everyone from our ferry was starting to disperse and all of the cab drivers had already left. No dice. There was a lone building lit up, an “Information Center.” When we went in to ask for help (it's now approaching 1 AM), the man at the “Information Center” said there was nothing he could do, except of course, accommodate us at another hotel, which he happened to own and was on the other side of the island. Both frustrated, confused, tired, and a bit nervous, Kevin and I started arguing in front of this man: Kevin wanted to book the hotel room he was offering, and I was refusing, feeling that this slimy guy was trying to take advantage of our situation. We were both right, and also both wrong. Kevin, meanwhile, had still been trying to call the owners of Lignos Hotel all along. As Kevin was about to accept the the guy's offer of 25 euro a night and a ride to the hotel (at this point I was FUMING!!!), the owner of Lignos finally answered and said he would pick us up. Hallelujah!!! It turns out that their policy is not to pick up their guests if the ferry arrives too late. What? @#$%^&*!!! Kevin took me aside before the sleepy owner arrived and gave me a “talking to.” I promised to be good, and the owner finally did arrive. Kevin is definitely a better person than I am, chatting with the owner during the drive, thanking him and apologizing for our ferry's late arrival. It took everything in me to bite my lip and remain quiet about the whole situation, which I felt was not our fault, and should have been a professional courtesy. If I had had my way, the owner would've been the one getting a “talking to.”

Regardless of our bumpy start, Santorini proved to be a beautiful island, one that I am very glad we went to, even though a bit touristy for our taste. The views are stunning! Kevin and I must've taken about a hundred pictures the next day, as everywhere you turned was a picture-postcard view. Most of the homes, which hug the cliffs, are stark white with blue trimming. Kevin and I walked to the bottom of the old port, declining the two other means of transport to get there: cable-car or donkey! We made our way down the sometimes slippery path, trying to avoid the mounds of donkey poop (and tourists) along the way. It was worth the effort, as Kevin and I ended up sitting at a little taverna at the bottom, sharing some grilled seafood, drinking a cold Mythos, and enjoying the sea views.

That evening proved to be the most memorable of our trip to Santorini, as Kevin and I hiked for three hours from the city of Fira to Oia (pronounced ee-ah) along a path at the top of the caldera. Kevin and I rushed to make it to this beautiful city before sunset. Although the famed sunset was somewhat covered by the clouds that evening, it was still an unforgettable experience.

We spent the next couple of days sampling the local beaches, know as 'red', 'white', and 'black', whose sands are colored as a result of the volcanic rock surrounding them. We went to the southern part of the island and saw Red Beach, and (tried) to hike to White Beach and Black Beach. The next two days we went to the black-sand beaches. Perissa had crystal-clear water, sizzling sand, and Kevin had an excellent snorkeling, splunking and cliff jumping experience. Kamari beach was also nice, but because of the so-so weather and time of year, it proved to be more like a ghost town, with shopkeepers closing stores and hotels for the season.

This is Kevin and we now sit in a very busy ferry that we boarded at 3AM, after staying up all night in the port trying to save on an extra half evening in the hotel. We are route to Rhodes (or Rodos in Greek). As we are learning is typical around here, the ferry arrived late, only thirty minutes this time, and is expected to take a total of eighteen hours to reach our destination. It has now been about seventeen hours and we are more than certain that we will not only arrive late, but during the dark, which as we have learned poses a whole new set of challenges. At least we have a reservation, lose directions and have thoroughly enjoyed a private two person cabin, with bathroom ensuite, on the ferry, which is quite possibly one of the best decisions we have ever made in our traveling career. It was quite a relief to board the ferry and immediately be escorted to our cabin where we settled in for a night of sleep while being gently rocked by mother ocean. As it would turn out, mother ocean would increase her gentle rock to a rolling tumble with some of the most tumultuous seas we have experienced in our four ferry trips thus far, which is perhaps why Idalis was not able to finish this entire post and why I will only be able to add a short paragraph. We were able to actually eat a meal on board during the worst of it, which was an accomplishment in and of itself. We hope to arrive in Rhodes by 23:00 and make our way to the Pink Elephant Pension where we will settle in for three nights and see what Rhodes has to offer, beside the oldest occupied Medieval city in Europe. Until then, I think I will end this post, put away the computer and go to the back of the ship to share my lamb, eggplant and potato entree with the fishes!

MY FEET LOVE CRETE

We entered the island of Crete on Wednesday, October 8th, on the 'Pegasus Express' ferry after a seven hour journey from our previous location of Gythio, on the far southern end of the Peloponnese. We have come to somewhat unlike what we call 'travel days', but this seven and one half hour journey proved to be one of the most memorable days of the trip thus far. The ferry made two other scheduled stops on the islands of Kithiri and Antikithiri, both of which lie in line with the ferry route to Crete. The ferry ride was exhilarating. What we thought would be a chance to catch up on some sleep turned into hours of staring out at the open ocean and catching glimpses of small and uninhabited islands jutting out of the dark blue water. We ate a lunch we packed comprised of stuffed wine leaves (grape leaves, as we call them) and sausage and pepper sandwiches that I had made the evening before.

The ferry arrived in the port of Kissamo Kastelli at about 20:45. It was already dark and all we could see was one taxi from the deck. Arriving at night is often times very difficult and disorienting, even with a reservation, which we had. Immediately after leaving the ship, we passed a small and unassuming Greek man that simply muttered “rooms” as we passed. We replied, “Oh, no thank you, we already have a reservation”. We walked up to the sole cab and the driver asked where we were headed, we said, “Argos Rooms for Rent”. He said, “Oh, see that small, unassuming man over there that you just passed? He is the boss of Argos.” Although he really did not say that exactly, it turned out that the sweet and gentle unassuming Greek man was Mr. Papadaki, owner of the Argos Rooms for Rent and Restaurant. A multi-generational establishment that was situated right on the beach at Kissamos Kastelli. A town with two names, you may ask. Well, yes. As it turns our, Kissamos is the Greek given name and Kastelli is the name given when the area was occupied by the Venetians, a people who left an indelible mark on the surface of Crete in the form of walls, castles, forts, churches and lighthouses. There is also another area on Crete known as Kastelli and the Greek name is also used to eliminate confusing the two cities.

Upon arriving, we were escorted to our rooms by Anastasia Papadaki, the daughter, who later joined us at our table in the restaurant to talk about the history and culture of Crete with us, as well as describing her upcoming holiday to Singapore. We drank homemade wine, a beverage that we end up becoming big fans of, and also met Dan, from Canada, and Kim, from London, who end up spending a late night with us talking, eating and planning our next moves. It was a wonderful evening and a great introduction to the hospitality and magic that Crete would soon reveal.

Our stay in Kissimos was much shorter than we had wished. However, the arrival of an incredible wind storm had canceled some of the events we had planned which relied on boat transportation. Had I had a surfboard, however, we would have stayed much longer as the waves were quite impressive after twenty-four hours of solid north winds. Nonetheless, while there, not only were we treated to the wonderful hospitality of the Papadaki family, and the incredible conversations with our new friend Kim over homemade wine, beer and ouzo with traditional Cretan music in the background, we also had an awesome day at Falassarna beach, which was an impromptu decision that was made while standing at the bus station writing down the different schedules. I snorkeled around the crystal clear waters of the lagoon while Idalis sat and soaked in the sun and the pages of the book she was reading, “Zorba the Greek”. That evening we were treated to our second best meal of the trip at the 'Cellar Taverna', which consisted of the Greek mix plate, artichoke hearts and potatoes, and swordfish, chased with, you guessed it, homemade wine and a complimentary carafe of Raki, a Cretan version of fire water, which we were unable to finish. At the end of our meal, we were greeted by the gregarious and charming restaurant owner, whose name escapes us, and the late arrival of Kim, from London. That was the end of our last evening in Kissamos and it could not have been more perfect.

It was a magical stay that ended with another impromptu bus ride, the following morning, to the city of Hania, prompted by the realization that our boat ride to the Bay of Balos and the island of Gramvoussa was canceled due to the bad weather. However, we did not make off to our next destination before deciding to stop into the Kissamos Museum to be pleasantly surprised by the incredible amount of artifacts dating all the way back to the ancient Minoan civilization, that inhabited the area in the early fourth through sixth centuries BC, and meeting Theo, the local historian and all around great guy. What would have been a half hour tour of the museum, turned into an hour long conversation including everything from archeology to basketball. Thanks Theo, it was nice to meet you and great to talk to you. (By the way, we ended up spending a couple days in Hania and hiking the Gorge on your day off!)

We left Kissamos on the 12:15 bus headed for Hania, another city built and established by the Venetians. We arrived with plenty of time to walk the city and enjoy views from the 1.5 kilometer sea wall that surrounds the city, protects the harbor and leads to the lighthouse marking the entrance to the port. Hania is a town with two faces. Adjacent to the sea is the old city center and beyond it is the newer part of what is a very large and touristic city, filled with pastel colored buildings and Venetian ruins. With original plans to stay in Hania only one night, we reconsidered after deciding that we would hike the Samarian Gorge the next morning. We woke up at 5:30 to catch the 7:30 bus to Omalos, which would drop us at the head of the 13 kilometer trail that would lead us from the interior of the island to the shores of the beach in a small town called Agia Roumeli, on the south side of the island. This hike would last six hours and find us starting under 11 degree (celsius) cloud cover and end in 23 degree (celsius) sunshine. The hike was simply amazing and unfortunately no camera or words would be able to capture the beauty and awe that we experienced that day and to even try would be futile. We finished the hike just in time to catch the ferry to the small town of Hora Sfakion, where we befriended the local beer merchant and spent the next couple of hours swimming and snorkeling the cool waters of the Mediterranean and taking sips of ice cold Mythos beer. We built a small sculpture on the beach to pay homage to the town of Horas Sfakion, which had been so good to us in such a short time, and watched the sunset just before heading off to catch the bus back to Hania. We arrived at our room late and thoroughly exhausted. A long sleep and a new day would find us heading back south, to the town of Paleohora, to be able to experience a more complete understanding of the southern side of Crete, that we had only merely sampled the day before. A wise decision that we would come to appreciate.

Having gotten good at deciphering Greek, learning the local bus routes and bargaining for cheap accommodations, we arrived in Paleohora at around 14;00, during the day and with plenty of sunlight, our personal preference. It was only a couple minutes after exiting the bus that we were met by a small Greek woman in black offering us a room. Idalis and I figure that these older Greek women pretty much support the tourist industry in Greece. Anyhow, after a short introduction and exchange of offers, we were escorted to our twenty Euro a night room, complete with ensuite bathroom, refrigerator and Greek style continental breakfast of cake and coffee. We immediately ripped through our routine of unpacking, securing and changing and headed out to explore the city. We had our bathing suits on and had hoped to find a small piece of beach to call our own. However, the weather was not to cooperate with us, so we decided to keep walking. Trying to be the 'know it all' guide, I attempted to get us to the long, sand beach via a shortcut. Although it brought us past the Venetian fortress on the tip of the peninsula, it ended in the city dump. After some short backtracking, we arrived along the beach and saw a little thatch roof taverna called 'The Pelican'. Our plan was to grab a quick snack and a beverage and head out again. Once seated, however, we could not help but just sit back, relax to the sounds of lounge and reggae music and two outstanding meals of stuffed tomatoes and fresh grilled red snapper, oh, and of course, two cold Mythos. We sat for hours staring at the ocean as patches of sun mingled with passing showers. Once we had had our fill, we paid (15 Euros), waited for a clearing and headed out. We only made it a short distance, to the entrance to the beach in fact, before the rain started to come down a bit heavier. Having felt that we accomplished enough by arriving, finding accommodations and eating a phenomenal meal, we decided a nap was definitely in order. After a sweet nap under the sound of lightly falling rain, we woke up just in time to decide where to eat dinner. After a short stop in the local 'gaming room' to use the internet, we made our way to the “Third Eye” restaurant, the only vegetarian restaurant in Crete. One word...amazing. Pumpkin and leek soup in a coconut sauce, stuffed eggplant with salad and rice, a pasta and mushroom bake, moussaka, and more home made organic wine. It was so delicious, in fact, that we decided right there we would return the following evening for a second round. So, the next day, we braved the cool wind and hiked out to a remote area of Paleohora beach. The weather was such that we did not successfully increase the intensity of our tans, but rather were able to be sandblasted from head to toe. Nonetheless, Idalis was able to make quite a dent in her book, “The Island”, an historical fiction based in eastern Crete, and I did my best to test my Italian heritage by building a Venetian rock wall. After a few hours, we decided to walk back into town and past a slew of naked, tanning, German bodies.

Paleohora is a great little town. In actuality, it is kind of big for a small town, in Cretan standards. What used to be a little fishing village has transformed into a very lazy and laid back tourist destination that, until recent years, was probably a bit of a secret. It is perched on a hill immediately in front of a small peninsula which contains the remains of a Venetian fortress used primarily as a look out. We were surprised to find out that one of the Venetian mosaic tile floors we had seen in the Kissamos museum was actually relocated from the Paleahora ruins. The people are incredibly friendly, the environment is calm, soothing and relaxing and after a second evening's meal at the “Third Eye”, we felt like we were satisfied and ready to move on. We no longer have a schedule to stick to and are free to roam, but we wanted to try and keep moving so that once we finally finish our magical and surprisingly captivating journey in Greece, we could move on to Turkey while the weather is still inviting and the accommodations still open. So, our next stop was to be an even smaller, and this time I mean small, town about a forty-five minute ferry ride east of Paleahora, called Sougia (pronounced soo-ya). We were told by our recently acquired friend, Kim from London, while we were still in Kissamos that we would LOVE this town. So, we purchased our ferry tickets and boarded the ferry at 8:00 ready to do it all over again. No more than five minutes after sitting down on the deck of the ferry, and in her typical by the skin of her teeth leisure, did the very source of our inspiration appear from the stairway to meet us with mouths agape. It was Kim from London, our new friend that we had met in and not seen since Kissamos, where we all agreed that at some point we just knew we would run into each other again, I just don't think any of us thought it would be that soon. She boarded, pulled up a deck seat and joined us in our journey to Sougia.

The three of us arrived in Sougia at about 9:00. We disembarked and walked the thin road into the heart of town. We decided to give staying together a go and worked the area for about half an hour before securing a two bedroom apartment, with kitchen, for the grand total of thirty-five Euro a night. She joined us in unpacking and shortly after, Idalis and I made a quick jaunt over to the local market to pick up some breakfast type food, which for us remains as fruit, yogurt, bran and coffee, and met Kirkos, a very hospitable and incredibly entrepreneurial merchant and resident of Sougia. After some great conversation and a little history about his home, we were off and enjoying a fantastic and filling breakfast on the veranda. Kim decided she was going to have a relaxing day on the beach while Idalis and I decided to strike out and enjoy some of the incredible hiking opportunities that exist in this part of Crete. We suited up, packed up some supplies and lunch and headed out. I will tell you, the Samarian Gorge is a site that everyone should be fortunate enough to behold. However, I rather enjoyed more the two and one half hour hike that lead us through some of the most amazingly harsh and rugged territory I have ever hiked. The trail that we chose, or which actually chose us, was a true single track hiking path that appeared to be underutilized and was bordered by every type of hard, thorny and brumbley bush that you can imagine, including sagebrush. At first, it was blistering hot, rugged and intense. However, as we marched on, scarring our ankles with scratches, we were eventually overcome by the most amazing experience of the senses. Since pretty much the beginning of our hike we had heard very faint noises in the distance. As we pressed on, they became more and more clear. Eventually, as we broke through the mountain top and began our decent into yet another gorge, we were almost met face to face with a heard of mountain goats. As it turns out, the local herders will affix bells to the necks of their flocks. As the mountain goats traverse the terrain looking for favorable grazing, they create a beautiful cacophony of clanking and ringing. Add to this the incredible smells of fresh sage and carob and you have a moment that absolutely takes your breath away. I never really thought much of goats and even had some bad experiences with them in the past (long story), but these creatures are absolutely incredible and surprisingly beautiful. They are very much a symbol of the people which they serve and feed, strong, virile, majestic and very sure footed. We were treated to encounters with these amazing beasts throughout the rest of our hike and pretty much right until we exited the most impressive and incredible beautiful gorge that discharged us right onto the stone beach at the far west end of Sougia. We spent all of the two and one half hour hike enjoying complete and total solitude. An experience that neither idalis or I will ever forget. That night, we made another run to the local market to pick up the ingredients of that nights meal, which all three of us worked to create. It was simple, tasty and made with loads of love. After that, we agreed to take a short walk around town, which is essentially one street, and wound up spending about three hours in the taverna next door, sampling the local ouzo, tequilla and raki, which was compliments of a local named Pasquala. We probably drank a bit too much, but we had a great time, with great conversation, in a great place, with great people. Well worth the next morning's hangover.

The next day was a bit slower and basically found us sunbathing for about six hours on the beach. For the first time in quite a few days, the strong winds subsided, the clouds disappeared and the sun got nice and hot. We spent part of the day at the area we called the 'kiddie beach', where most of the families camped out, and the second half at the more decadent end of the beach where naked sunbathing was the call. To the people of Sougia, I thank you for your incredible hospitality and apologize if I at all scarred you with the site of my incredibly white ass! Sougia is one of the few places that we actually loved so much that we agreed we might one day want to return. The south coast of Crete was a last minute decision for us, but one that we are incredibly grateful that we made. This is rough and rugged territory full of taste and flavor and perhaps some of the most hardy people you could ever meet. It is incredibly laid back and was, and kind of still is, a hippie town. People live along the seashore in tents and even caves, bathing naked on the beach and spending the evenings around a fire while playing music. In spite of this, it is incredibly family friendly and smiles abound.

After two wonderful days in Sougia, Idalis, Kim and I awoke bright and early to catch the 7:00 bus into Chania, where we would then transfer to another bus that would take Kim to Rethimno and us a bit further into Iraklio, where we would catch a ferry to our next destination, Santorini. We said our good byes to Kim and promised that we would one day meet up again. We would not be at all surprised if somehow she appeared on the deck of the ferry to Santorini! Hey Kim, “Yassas!!!” Thanks for a great time! Give Bell our best!

A PAUSE IN PELOPONNESE (Part 2)

Idalis:

A VACATION FROM OUR VACATION

When Kevin and I arrived to the southern Peloponnese in the town of Gythio, we were only planning to stay a few days. We had read that it was a stark, sparsely inhabited area, but it had some sights we were curious to explore. We thought that a few days in this rugged area of southern Greece would be just enough time, and it was a convenient jumping-off point to get to the island of Crete.

Kevin and I arrived at Camping Maltemi last Thursday night. It is a nice campground, 3 kilometers outside of the town of Gythio, where legend says Helen and Paris (prince of Troy) began their affair which culminated in the Trojan War. Camping Maltemi is also a working olive grove, where they produce their own olive oil and cure kalamata olives (which you do not want to pick right off the tree and eat - YUCK!). It is right on the beach of Mavrouvouni, known for its windsurfing spot. We planned on renting one of the bungalows that had a kitchen, as we were looking forward to cooking for ourselves and just taking it easy for a few days. We had read that there were five ferries a week to Crete, so thought we could take our pick. We soon found out we were very wrong! Yes, there are five ferries a week to Crete . . . in the summer! In the off season (now), there is only one ferry a week to Crete, which means that we'd have to wait a WHOLE WEEK before leaving this little town! Kevin and I looked at each other, already becoming anxious and fidgety, wondering how we would occupy our time, as we were not in the “city” of Gythio (I use that term lightly) and were “stuck” on this campground, without transport, for 7 long days! How would we survive? What would we do? Wouldn't we get bored? VERY bored? Being accustomed to (relative) creature comforts made us worry – we had been camping before - but 1) always had a car, 2) have only gone for a few days at a time and, 3) never had to communicate in Greek!

Well, suffice to say, this is what we've needed – a vacation from our vacation! There are no sights to see (okay, maybe one), no postcards to send, and no museum lines we have to wait in! We have truly enjoyed our time here. At first, it was really hard. We're just not used to having all this . . . t i m e. We've had to (blessedly!) learn how to change gears. Kevin and I get up in the morning and start our slow, fairly meaningless day. I go for a run on the beach and then face the sea as I do yoga. Meanwhile, Kevin goes out for a long paddle on one of the many windsurf boards here (that took a bit of begging!). When we're both done, we sit on the beach and stare at the Lakonian Sea. We then stroll back to our simple, little bungalow. We have fresh fruit and coffee for breakfast (thank you, Amor!) and just linger, talking and laughing. Breakfast has never lasted so long (okay, maybe in Cinque Terre it did!). Sometimes we go for a walk, play with one of the many cats on the premises, or (gasp!) take a nap. Sometimes we walk into “town” to buy bread (or more Greek wine!), but usually we've just enjoyed the scenery here – going to the beach, reading, or sunning by the pool and going down the kiddie slide! Kevin cooks every night, as camping has always brought out the chef in him! Our dinners are great, tasty and homemade, and seem to last for hours. We sit outside, talk, listen to the crickets, enjoy a bottle of wine, and remind each other how very lucky we are.

There are a few sites we wanted to explore, but because this area is so remote, traveling by bus can prove to be very complicated. So we've missed the ancient ruins and the spectacular gorges, yet we don't feel guilty about it! We think it was meant to be this way, forcing us to slow down. We did go on an excursion one day to the amazing Diros Caves, in the Lakonian Mani. They are a 14 kilometer network of caves at sea level, so most of it is only accessible by boat. It was a spectacular sight to behold, even if our bus driver both there and back was a grumpy, rude chauffeur. We have found (and read) that the locals in the southern Peloponnese are a bit like their environment – dry and rugged. But, we have also met some very friendly people here, from the lady at the local market where we buy our bread, to the men at the snack bar who let Kevin borrow the old, abandoned boards for his memorable, morning paddles.

We have truly enjoyed our time here and feel blessed to have been able to slow down, smell the roses (literally), and appreciate our surroundings and each other.

A PAUSE IN PELOPONNESE (Part I)

A PAUSE IN PELOPONNESE: (A two part series highlighting our stay on the Greek Island of Peloponnese)

Part I: Nofplio, Greece
Thursday, October 2nd at 12:42
Kevin

So, here we sit in a bus terminal in Corinth. We just arrived on a bus from Nafplio about ten minutes ago. We used the facilities, paid the usual using the facilities fee, which coincidentally never seems to cover a toilet seat, or in some cases toilet paper, and set up a table and a couple of chairs in the corner next to a plug so we could charge the computer while we write this post. I was advised, when I bought two bus tickets to our next stop, Gythio, that the bus just left about twenty minutes ago and the next one is not until 15:50, that's a three hour wait in this hot, stinky, bus terminal where the flies are incredibly aggressive!

As most of you steady readers are aware, we justed parted ways with my parents at the end of the Italian leg of this tour. It was a sad moment for all involved. With the conclusion of the appointment with my parents in Italy, we are now essentially deadline free until we meet Katie in New Delhi (at night) on the 12th of November. As a result, we have collectively decided to amend our strategy. We have promised ourselves to slow down, spend more time in the places that we like and try to avoid spending any less than three nights in any one place. Our original break neck pace to get out of Europe with some Euros left over was starting to wear on us. Now that we have arrived in Greece which is absolutely beautiful and much more affordable, we are looking forward to slowing down a bit and convening more with nature. Our first stop, Nafplio, Greece, for three nights and four days.

Our time here was wonderful and truly relaxing. Surprisingly, we were able to get internet access for free, which gave us a chance to catch up on all internet related activities, such as balancing accounts, making Skype calls, and researching the rest of our time in the Peloponnese, which is really Idalis' job as she likes it and does it so well. We have decided that she determines where we go and it is my job to get us there. I have been advised that accomplishing that with as few three hour layovers as possible is desirable!

Upon arriving in Nafplio, we were shocked to see how strikingly similar this coastal area is to the Cinque Terre, our favorite spot in Italy. It is rough and rugged coastal terrain complete with rocky beaches, rugged outcrops, crystal clear water, seaside hiking, historic points of interest and lots of wildlife. The main difference is that Nafplio is not overrun with tourists. On the contrary, it is quite sleepy and quiet. A welcomed change. As is our usual M.O., we say that we are gonna rest when we arrive on the first day, but rather excitement takes over and we go out and explore and try to get oriented while taking note of the lay of the land. This time was no exception. We unpacked, organized the room and headed out. First, we walked down to the local beach to check it out. We would have probably opted for a swim. However, it was getting late and with the hour also came cloud cover and some cold rain. We waited out the quick shower in a beach side cabana and then striked out to walk the pathway that hugged the edge of the cliff and overlooked the massive expanse of sea. An area so beautiful it inspired Idalis to run there every morning. Not knowing where it lead, we continued to follow it right in to, what we believed to be, the posh side of town. A small harbor, some expensive shops and a vast and seemingly endless line of sidewalk cafes with plush seating and great views of the pedestrian thoroughfares. It was pretty empty and we soon learned that the season had basically ended about a week ago when the rain and cold weather moved in. We concluded our walk and exploration of the town with a stop in at the local grocery store to pick up some stuff for the evening's meal and the following day's breakfast. We were incredibly delighted when we met the woman attending the deli. She spoke perfect English and we soon realized that her and her husband lived in Chicago for twenty years and had recently moved back into the property they owned in Napflio. She was incredibly helpful and kind and assisted us with a selection of grape leaves, salted sardines and uber fresh feta cheese from a wooden barrel that was made right in town. That night, we dined on a home made Greek salad comprised of chopped cucumber, tomato, yellow pepper, Kalamata olives and, you guessed it, fresh feta. We also had our fresh salted sardines over fresh baked bread, grape leaves and washed it all down with a three dollar bottle of Greek wine. This was no small feat as it was all accomplished with a Leatherman, a night stand and a bathroom sink. The following morning's breakfast was not to be outdone and was comprised of a fresh fruit salad with Greek yogurt and bran sticks, and fresh bread with Nutella (sound familiar Mom and Dad?). This breakfast, however, was made even better as we were lucky enough to be joined by our neighbors, Toby and Martina. We had met this fun loving and energetic couple, from Germany, the night before and had very quickly struck up a friendship. Unfortunately, this was to be their last day, so we joined them for a day at the beach until they had to leave at about 15:30. We had a great time talking about politics, music, education, travel and the differences between our two countries, all while basking in the warm sun and the crisp water. It was only to be short time, but it was a great time. We are pretty sure that they will read the blog, so Toby and Martina, we wish you a wonderful trip and hope to stay in touch!

That evening it was a quick gyro and a beer at 'Maria's Corner' and then back to the grocery store for a refill of the Greek salad ingredients and a rotisserie chicken, which was enough for dinner and a sandwich that I will eat after typing this post. The following day, was a little grayer and gloomier than the day before. However, the rain held up and the temperature turned out to be perfect for a hike up 1,068 steps, we counted, to the Venetian built Palamadi Fortress. This is by far the best castle/fortress that I have ever visited and yet another place that we were certain Shawn and Sarah would love. The views were breathtaking. You could see all the surrounding towns and the fortress stretched out along the entire rim of the mountain where it sat. It took us hours to explore every nook and cranny, every cistern, every jail cell, munitions hold and every one of the incredibly preserved bastions. I, of course, had to make Idalis a little crazy by climbing every wall and outcrop to get that 'perfect shot'. After our explorations, we decided to follow the road, previously used for vehicular traffic, into the next town and the 'sand beach' that we had heard so much about. The hike was amazing and yet again, the views incredible. We stopped along the way to eat a lunch we packed. After about an hour of walking, we reached the 'sand beach'. We were not terribly impressed. It wasn't quite what one thinks when they think 'sand beach'. It reminded me more of the type of shore that usually accompanies a lake. It was pretty full of litter, as the guide book had mentioned, and it was, for the most part, abandoned. So, we decided to turn around and head back, but not before we stopped to climb down a cliff where I could try out my newly purchased goggles with a short, and very cold, skinny dip around the point. Upon returning home, we took a short, okay, it was kind of long, nap and then went out to dinner at a local restaurant, right around the corner from the pension, where we dined on fried cheese, eggplant salad, fresh bread, stuffed lamb, fried calamari, baklava, house red wine and Mytho's beer, all for twenty-six Euros. I love Greece!

And so ended our three night stay at Dimitris Bekas' pension in the very charming little town of Nafplio, Greece and what lead us to this little bus station in Corinth where we eagerly await the adventures that lie ahead in the southern Peloponnese city of Gythio, Greece and the Camping Maltemi sight where we will be staying for five nights in cabin number four, equipped with a kitchen. Tomorrow will be four and one half years that Idalis and I have been together and I have promised to cook a dinner that will be totally grilled. Wish me luck and we will let you know how it goes. Andio!