WITH A CHERRY ON TOP!

Thursday, November 26th (Happy Thanksgiving!)

Kevin

We boarded the Greyhound bus right away,
Arrived in Melbourne the very next day.
Already having a place to stay,
We then rode the tram to the YHA.



We checked into our room, it was comfy but small.
The staff was friendly and let us make a phone call.
We contacted Maarten by Facebook and Noah by phone
To see if they were tired of traveling alone.

We invited them over for dinner that night
To make sure that their travels were going alright.
We then popped the question to see what they'd say
And asked them to join us for the next few days.

First we would walk towards the 'burb of Fitzroy
Stopping first at a park where we heard some loud noise
We would all crack up laughing at our good luck
To find ranger chasing girl chasing dog chasing duck.



We would then be so lucky to bump into a street
Filled with the sound and smell of some great Latin treats.
We would dine on paella and then move our feet
To salsa, merengue and other great beats.

We would then move on and continue to stroll
Down the main plaza and through the small roads,
admiring the street art and incredible vibe
Despite the rain, the streets were alive.



We would then quench our thirst as we sat in the pub
Reminiscing and talking about things that we love.
We would then head for Bimbo's in the pouring rain
To dine on four dollar pizzas and start talking again.

When we were finished and our stomachs were full
We headed downtown which we thought would be cool.
The reggae show that we wanted to see
Ended up not being, as advertised, free.

So we reckoned we'd given it a pretty good go
And decided to end on a positive flow.
Maarten to Nomads and us to Oasis
We'd settle into bed with smiles on our faces.

The very next morning it continued to pour
But that did not stop us from leaving the dorm.
We decided to meet at the main train station
And take in a display about the films of this nation.

After two hours of being entertained
And marveling at the knowledge of film we had gained
We then moved outside to freshen our brains
And realized that there was a break in the rain.

We sauntered around in the streets for a while
Then boarded the free tram in cheap tourist style.
It did a tour of town center with narration included
And stopped in a far corner leaving us totally secluded.

So we then walked some more till we found Chinatown
And Maarten pointed out the best dumplings around.
That made us hungry so we decided to flee
To the grocery store to buy something to eat.

We decided on burgers, a real Aussie treat.
Ours had great spices and were made from lamb meat.
That night we discussed a change in the plans
We rent a car, drive to the coast and work on our tans.



So, the very next morning we arrived in an office
Rented a car and stuffed it with all of us.
We would head down south with our moderate load
And take a tour of the Great Ocean Road.




While driving along the edge of the cliff
We'd stop many times and take lots of pics.
The scenery is stunning, some of the best we have seen
Peppered by stops for some local cuisines.



The fish and chips meal that we would eat one day
Would leave everyone feeling heavy and Noah quite gray.
We would continue to press on after a lovely stay
In the small little town of Apollo Bay.



The next day was filled with laughter and jeer
As four of us drove to Port Campbell from here.
Once again we would make many stops
Taking in the surrounds and admiring big rocks.



The least of them known as the Twelve Apostles
But do to erosion only eight stand colossal.
At the end of the day we would again rest our heads
In a brand new Backpackers with comfortable beds.



That morning we left for our final day
Of touring the coast in this magical way.
Noah would keep us entertained
With clips off the ipod that we'd have to name.



A picnic lunch by the side of the road
And a chance encounter with a blue tongued lizard.
We finally pulled back into Melbourne that night
And decided a kangaroo roast would be a delight.



Dinner was great and our friendship grew tight
Though a little bit sad as it would be our last night.
We said goodbye to Maarten and Noah and gave them big hugs
And told them we could not wait till we'd again see their mugs.



By this chance encounter they would become great friends
And consider traveling together till their work visa ends.
Idalis and I have a flight in the morning
So it's off to New Zealand which will be anything but boring.

We hope to go tramping, they hope to pick grapes
Whatever happens we will always be mates.
A new chapter opens as another will stop
But not without ending with a cherry on top!

CITY SLICKERS

Friday, November 20, 2009 5:30 PM

Idalis:

After six weeks of camping in the outback and along small coastal towns, we were going to have our first taste of Australia's largest cosmopolitan city: Sydney. We traded in our tents and cans of baked beans for museums and real wine glasses!

Sydney was GREEEEAAAAT! We found it to be a beautiful, vibrant city. We stayed a week, but we could've stayed much longer, exploring different neighborhoods and endless beaches. These are some of the things about Sydney that made it hard to leave:



Sydney Harbour – It's stunning. Both a major port and the city's playground, we loved walking around, taking in the sights and sounds. Chic restaurants (we didn't even look at the menus!), street performers, and oh yeah, the water!



Sydney Opera House – What a photogenic building! Kevin took hundreds of pictures from every angle to prove it! Catching a glimpse of its soaring shell-like structure for the first time is right up there with seeing the Eiffel Tower and the Taj Mahal . . . and just as crowded!



Sydney Harbour Bridge – You can scale the bridge with Bridgeclimb Tours (for a mere $180) or walk across it for free and still get breathtaking views of the harbor. Which one do you think we picked?




City Center – Tall glass buildings mixed with old European charm, a bustling business district, frenetic shopping, and surprisingly clean streets.




Glebe – We LOVED this residential area where our hostel was located. Close enough to the city center (about a 20 minute walk), but far enough to feel like a real neighborhood, it was perfect. Interesting shops and cafes, tons of bookstores, pretty parks, and the cutest (and most expensive!) Victorian townhouses I've ever seen. We just happened to be in town during the Glebe Street Festival on Saturday, and enjoyed listening to live music and perusing the market.




Royal Botanic Gardens – It's hard to believe that this green oasis is so close to the city center. We loved taking a stroll under the large canopied trees and watching the water birds feed.

Museum of Contemporary Art – It's in front of the Circular Quay and has some wonderful, modern exhibits. Best of all, it was free! (Sorry, no pics permitted).




St. Mary's Cathedral – Close to Hyde Park, we stopped in to give thanks for our many blessings and were rewarded with front row seats to a very posh Big Fat Greek wedding!




Beaches – Water is never far away in this town! One day we took the ferry to Manly beach. Kevin surfed, but I took the easy route: nose in a book and toes in the sand! We also did an amazing coastal walk one day from Coogee to the famous Bondi Beach, and watched the waves crash into the cliffs.





Fish Market – Mmmmm . . . we're all about the food! We splurged on our last day and had lunch at the city's most famous market. Fresh melt-in-your-mouth Sydney rock oysters, fish and chips, and two types of squid. Heaven!

We were very sad to leave this vibrant city, but are also looking forward to Sydney's metropolitan rival: Melbourne. These wanna-be City Slickers will continue to soak in Australia's cultural meccas and search for the perfect latte. Wish us luck!

The Great Oz Experience (Part IV: Surf and Turf)

Thursday, November 12th at 15:12

Kevin

So with this entry concludes the car trip portion of our Great Oz Experience. We just arrived in Warrawong, just outside of Woolengong, today and got a motorcycle escort from Nic's brother Maurice, on his recently refurbished BMW, back to Sonya's place. We have the great fortune of reuniting with them once again before each of us heads out in strikingly different directions. Nic flies back to India on December 7th, Sonya leaves her teaching job and joins Maurice in Coober Pedy and Idalis and I continue our, dare I say, never ending journey! For us it will be off to the amazing city of Sydney where adventure surely awaits, but that is the subject of a future post. For now, let me get you all caught up.

6727.2 KM – Stop in Bowen for a pee break and take a picture of the giant rainbow colored mango.
6800.7 KM – Arrive at Island Gateway Caravan Park just in time to secure the perfect spot under a mango tree. Fruit bats and green ants abound. Awake to a much anticipated breakfast of fresh baked croissants with ham and cheese, seedless grapes and coffee.
6807.0 KM – Drop Nic off at Abel Point Pier with plenty of time to spare. Sit with her until the friendly cruise director shuffles the crew off to their sailing vessel.
6810.4 KM – Park under the sail shade structure and go into Coles to shop for groceries for the next couple of days. Good stuff in store.
6820.0 KM – Arrive back at camp and enjoy gargantuan sandwiches of ham and silverside (boiled beef) on kalamata olive loaf. Take an afternoon nap and then a dip in the pool. My immediate excitement is quelled when I realize that the water in the hot tub is not hot! Decide to walk into town and then decide to drive while on the way we see a winding road going up a hill as the sun is setting. Find the entrance to the road, but it is private. Oh well. Drive into town, go to a couple of internet cafes. One does not have connections for lap tops and the other is closing. So, settle for some WiFi time at old faithful, McDonald's. Back to camp for an amazing dinner of sauteed aubergine (eggplant), salad and grilled pork chops. Sleep well! Wake up to breakfast of French toast (made with French Bread!), peaches and kiwis. Do some laundry and walk into town, on a sidewalk, and right to the artificial lagoon (pool) which is conveniently located adjacent to the scenic bay. After seeing the warning sign, we surmise that the lagoon is in place to appease the locals and tourists during the summer months when the sea becomes rife with predators and small creatures (six varieties of jellyfish) that can induce horrific pain, or even death! After a few hours of sunning and swimming we stop at a book exchange, where oddly enough I am the one to walk away with a book, then McDonald's for a soft serve ice cream cone and a caramel and chocolate sundae and last, an internet cafe where you feed the computer coins, just not the 5 cent ones as it makes them angry. Dinner is a hit with mixed seafood marinara and egg fettuccini. Lots of wine to wash it all down.
6847.1 KM – Final day in Airlie Beach and not to be outdone we dine on a breakfast of tomato and cheese omelets, baguette and fresh fruit. Too bad we have to drive 800 kilometers today and can't just chillax!
6850.4 KM – Arrive at Abel Point Marina right on time to retrieve Nic from her blissful sailing adventure. The tank is full, the cooler stocked and we are on a mission to make it to Noosa Heads, a place with which I have had a mysterious fascination with for some time.
7552.7 KM – After over 700 kilometers, a portion of which was done in the dark on a kangaroo lined highway, we decide to pull over at a rest stop 37 kilometers out of Miriam Vale. We set up the large tent, no fly, and dine on cous cous and paneer vegetable masala. Next morning awake to a blazing sun, no fly to black it out, and break camp. Have a quick brekky while I feed the magpies Wheat Bix. One of them catches the pieces mid air. On road by 7:45 AM. Three hours till Noosa.
7670.3 KM – Find and promptly remove a tick from my head. WTF Mate!
7855.5 KM – Before getting to Noosa we decide to stop over in the suburb of Eumundi and happen to be right on time for the Wednesday market which boasts a dazzling variety crafts, clothes, food and alternative and new age remedies, products and services, such as massage, chiropractics, raki, shiatsu and fortune tellers. A cool place with some cool people
7878.1 KM – Arrive in Noosa Heads at the Noosa River Caravan Park. Shocked to find the campsite is more expensive than the previously more expensive campsite at Uluru. it is worth it though. Noosa is a beautiful beach side town famous for several right point breaks that attract the world's best longboarders. The points are all part of a national park that we hiked through, agreeing that the nude beach of Alexandria is the best. Visit the Noosa Long Board Shop and get some free stickers. It is incredibly windy which makes camping fun. We even get a healthy dose of rain on the last night. Once again, we will eat very well. The surf is not performing its magic, but the swimming and body surfing is great. Noosa is a magic little town with a great vibe and it is hard to leave our waterfront campsite right on the Noosa River with a view of the inlet.






7958.9 KM – Break camp and shake out the wet and sand infused gear. Take showers, eat breakfast and leave Noosa with a warm fuzzy feeling.
8209.7 KM – Arrive in a small town called Wonglepong in the Tamborine mountains where Nic's oldest brother, Roger, lives. His directions of turn right six minutes out of the previous town deliver us right to his driveway. He and his wife, Ros, welcome us warmly. They have a beautiful house that was trucked over in two pieces from a neighboring town and reassembled on their hillside property. Roger did most of the work himself and him and Ros lived in a small shack, now the workshop, for two years until the house was ready. We feel fortunate as they ask us to spend the evening just as the skies open and the rain begins to pour. We are happy to oblige. As they say, nothing attracts a crowd like a crowd. By the end of the night, eleven of us sit down to a dinner of pasta carbonara, prepared by Roger. In attendance were Ros and Roger, Ros's son Rhys, his wife Kirsty and their two kids, the neighbor Madonna, the border Cain and Nic, Idalis and I. (Hope everyone's name is spelled right!) Once again it was a great treat to be around such wonderful people and once again the night poured with conversation and spirits. The next morning we awoke to chattering birds, had a quick breakfast, a few more stories, a jump in the pool (for me), and then said our goodbyes and set off for the Gold Coast.




8263.9 KM – Arrive in Surfer's Paradise. There are some surfers, there is some surf, but it is not quite paradise. It's nice, it looks like a lot of fun and it is not fair to judge it from just a two hour stop over. Named Surfer's Paradise as a marketing ploy to attract tourists, it seems to have been successful. It is packed with tourists and things tourists like, such as bistros, cafes, shops, malls, and strip bars, blonde bombshells, golden tans and skimpy clothes. I didn't get a chance to surf, but we did enjoy a Turkish lunch of kebab and pide, got to practice our Turkish words with the owner and then have a Hugry Jack's (Burger King) soft serve ice cream cone dipped in chocolate magic shell.



8269.1 KM – Make Nic slam on the brakes and pull off the road when we see a welcome to Miami Beach sign. Miami Beach, Australia! Our beach is better, but they win for surf.



8275.8 KM – Stop at Burleigh Heads to check out the famous right point break.




8283.4 KM – Stop at Kirra to check out the famous Superbanks surf break, which is no longer so super due to dredging issues.



8289.8 KM – Stop at Durunbah to check out the famous break adjacent to the inlet. There is a junior surf competition in progress and the surf is going off!




8290.6 KM – Cross over from Queensland to New South Wales. Doesn't feel much different except that we lost one hour as the clocks had to be set forward because Queensland does not observe day light savings and New South Wales does.
8352.1 KM – After a short scour of the town, we decide to pitch camp at Byron Bay Tourist Village. It is a short distance out of the main town but much cheaper for a tent site. After camp is set we stroll into town to have a look around and a dip in the ocean. At first site we are very impressed. The bay is beautiful, the water crystal clear and a nice right hand wave peels off the point. While sitting in the sand admiring our surroundings, a familiar face pops into view. It is Robb, from Canada, that we met in Port Douglas. We catch up, have a few laughs and share a six pack as we decide to meet the following day, after his parachute jump, to climb up to the lighthouse. The girls and I say goodbye for now and head to Wooly's (Woolworth's; everything in Australia has a nickname) and pick up a few groceries. It is salad, roo steaks and mashed potatoes for dinner that night.
8354.6 KM – Stop at Nomad's Hostel and pick up Robb for our morning hike.
8356.3 KM – Park at entrance to Cape Byron Headland Preserve walking track. Robb was bubbling (overflowing) with adrenaline and excitement at his earlier accomplishment of skydiving from 14,000 feet. So, our 5 kilometer, 5 hour walk around the beautiful rain forest and headland lookouts did little to tire him. The overcast day turned into bright and intense sun and we all got some color. The waves were looking much better today, despite what an older local couple that I met said about it being too small and too crowded. I explained that it was all a matter of perspective as I was coming from Miami and we dreamed of days like this and when we got them, there would be 200 people in the water. They then agreed that they live in paradise! I hope to rent a board tomorrow.






8358.7 KM – It was a long night. The rain was heavy, intense and lasted until morning with very few breaks. The magical tent held up incredibly. We were lucky to set up in a high spot of the camp, unlike many others who were completely flooded. The constant deluge, however, did flood out even the high spots and water did eventually begin to weep in through the floor of our tent. We did our best to get everything up off the floor and wipe up the growing puddles. A very damp and restless sleep. The following day was not much better as the cloud cover and rain continued.
8366.1 KM – Drive in to town and use the rainy day to catch up on internet. After four hours traces of sun began to emerge. So, we grabbed some meat pies, a sausage roll and some pastries and had a picnic at Watego Beach. The wind was up and the waves were choppy so I took a chance and decided to save a surf for the following day. That night we met up with Nic and our new friend Iain, from Brisbane via England, and had chicken butter masala and cous cous for dinner.
8381.4 KM – Awaking to sunny skies, I thought it best to give the tents a final wash down as this would more than likely be the last of our camping and we wanted them returned to their rightful owners in better shape than we received them. Also cleaned up and organized the car. But, after that it was off to find a board for hire and then to the beach. I got lucky and found a fiberglass 5'10” quad fish which was heaps better than the NSP pop outs most shops had on offer. We decided on Watego Beach as it had shade for the girls and some lefts for me. Iain and I paddled out together but were soon separated by the strong current. I got lucky enough to stay put right off the point and enjoyed a full three hours of water park like conditions with crystal clear water, sunny skies and large forgiving waves with miles of face and no one else around. After turning my arms to mush, it was off to return the board and prepare an amazing meal of burritos. We had all been craving Mexican food. It was an early evening as we all drifted off to sleep exhausted and with full bellies.




8420.2 KM – Wake up early and break camp for the last time. Today we attempt to make it into Sydney. All the equipment is cleaned and packed one last time. The cooler is virtually empty, with the exception of today's lunch. A shower is immediately followed by a breakfast of ham and cheese croissants. We say goodbye to all the friends we made in the caravan park, most importantly Iain and then head out for a long day of driving.
8907.9 KM – Stop for lunch and fuel up at the Taree rest stop. Sit at the McDonald's tables outside and make a salad with leftovers and eat the last three cans of tuna (yah!). Rethinking our strategy, we decide to reserve a campsite in a national park just outside of Sydney for the evening. We will break out the camping gear one last time and do all we can to keep it from getting dirty! In the morning, talk to Nic's brother Maurice who confirms we are on for a reunion in Wollongong.
9201.8 KM – Arrive, after hours, 14 kilometers outside of Sydney at the Lane Cove River Tourist Park. Summon the attending ranger who has already hit the sauce, but was lucid enough to give us a map, a code to the security gate and directions to the grocery store. Set up one tent, no fly, no frills, and prepare a late night stir fry.
9223.6 KM – Pack up, eat pancakes and head out.
9336.5 KM – Arrive in Warrawong, just outside of Wollongong, at Sonya's apartment after a motorcycle escort from the middle of the city by Nic's brother Maurice. Have a quick snack and catch up while waiting for Sonya to return home from work. Once she does, we head out, in her car, to see the Nan Tien Temple, the largest Buddhist temple in the southern hemisphere. It is big, beautiful, peaceful, reminds us of Asia and its toilets flush in the opposite direction! Then, it is on to “Big W” so Maurice can buy a pair of shorts and Idalis can play with all the electronic singing Christmas toys. Followed by a stop at the fruit and veg market, fish market and finally the bottle shop for a case of Heiney's! Sonya prepares an amazing paella dish and we eat and drink to oblivion. Everyone is zonked so we head off to sleep.





9341.2 KM – After a quick brekky and saying our goodbyes to Maurice and Sonya, we load up in the Nissan one last time and get dropped off at the Port Kembla railway station. We unload our gear and say our goodbyes. One chapter has ended and another begins. Nic will press on towards Melbourne today and we will hope to arrive in Sydney, pick up the surfboard and find accommodations. Feels weird to have packs on our backs again, but will feel good to sleep in an actual bed.

This was an amazing adventure and an incredible opportunity. We owe much of this experience to the Lorenz family for shipping us, hauling us, keeping us and feeding us. They exemplify the Australian spirit of generosity, freedom and fun. We thank you all (Nic, Manfred, Maurice, Sonya, Roger, Ros, Eva and Nick)!

Australia is amazing wildlife, breathtaking scenery, overwhelming kindness, free spiritedness, diverse culture, rich history, vast distances and we did it all and it was, “S'ALL RIIIIIGHT!

THE GREAT OZ EXPERIENCE PART III (Greener Pastures)

Friday, October 30, 2009 1:00 PM

Idalis:

The scenery definitely started to change. As we began to head east from the Outback towards the coast, reds turned to yellows and then to green. Once reaching the coast, we glimpsed our first Australian beach (beautiful!), hiked through the oldest living rainforest, snorkeled the Great Barrier Reef, and went to an island with a beachy vibe and cuddly koalas. Our adventure continues:

3264 K – Head out from Alice Springs early in the morning, breaking camp and having a quick breakfast first. Loooooong, hot travel day. Huge, weird termite mounds line the sides of the sizzling asphalt road. There are so many of them. Are all those spooky dirt mounds still inhabited? Or have their owners moved on to more desirable real estate property?

3294 K – Crossed the Tropic of Capricorn!!!! It looks no different.

3642 K – Stop for a pee break in the bizarre little town of Wycliffe Well, the UFO sighting capital of Australia. There is nothing redeeming about this place, and I can understand why the locals have started seeing things . . .






3681 K – Drive through the Devil's Marbles. According to scientists they are the granite remains of molten lava after millions of years of erosion. I like the local Warumungu Aboriginal creation story better, which says the rocks are the eggs of the Rainbow Serpent.




4396 K – Drive well after dark, but stop to camp at a simple rest area on the side of the road once we realize it's not safe to continue (don't want to hit those kangaroos). No showers. We are all starting to smell but can blame it on dingo pee, sure to be around. Dinner is quick (leftover pasta salad) but the views from our tent that night are amazing. The sky is expansive and the stars seem to twinkle right at us!

Head out at 6:30 am the next morning from Mt. Isa. Our early morning rewards us with one of the most beautiful sunrises while we break camp. Will drive over 1100 kilometers east today. An even longer travel day!

4961 K – Stop in Normonton for lunch in a park under a covered picnic table. A sleepy little town, even the stray dogs look bored.

5534 K - Stop at a truck stop in Ravenshoe for the evening. Very rustic surroundings right next to the highway, but at $5 per person, you can't complain. The hot showers and spicy chili for dinner warms the soul, even if it comes from a can. Wake up early the next morning again to break camp, eat breakfast, and drive the remaining 200 kilometers to the coast. I can't wait to see the beach!

5541 K – On the way out of Ravenshoe we stop at the Windy Hill Wind Farm. With an altitude of 904 meters, Ravenshoe is the highest town in Queensland. We stop at Australia's largest wind farm, with 20 turbines that supply enough energy for several neighboring towns. The winds are strong and the cows look refreshed! The scenery as we head towards Port Douglas via the Atherton Tableland is so pretty – hills and purple jacarandas, which remind me of Kevin's parents' street and sends me a pang of nostalgia.




5708 K – Yay! We've made it to the coast, with most of the day to spare! Port Douglas is a beautiful vacation destination. We check out Dougie's Backpackers but are put off by the party vibe and the minuscule tent spaces (“Sure there's enough space! You can pitch your tent right there between the Wicked Campervan and the fire dancers!”) Pandanus Caravan Park, just next door, turns out to be our best campsite yet. With shady trees, spic and span kitchen facilities, and a great pool, it's like the Hilton of campsites. We are very impressed.

Can't chill out on the beach just yet. First, we have to put up the tents and go food shopping at Coles. With such great amenities, we go crazy in the supermarket, buying tons of fresh fruits and veggies and saying goodbye to canned food for a few days. Goodbye chili, hello salads!

That afternoon, we pick mangoes from the side of the road (I love Australia!) and visit the Mossman Gorge, filled with clear (but very cold!) swimming holes. Kevin and Nic jump right in, while I get my feet nibbled by a cheeky black cat fish. We take the walking trail through our first glimpse of the Daintree Rainforest and then head back into town to watch the sunset and have dinner. A perfect day!












The next day, we catch up on boring stuff: laundry, internet, postcards, etc. We finally make it to the beach in the afternoon. Four Mile Beach is beautiful, backed by palm trees and such white, powdery sand between my toes that it makes me want to cry. I'm in heaven! That night, we cook dinner at the communal kitchen (yummy pork chops) and chat with Rob, a Canadian retiree traveling around Australia with his buddy. Rob survived chemo and three strokes in one year, and has maintained a positive disposition and cheerful outlook on life. A true inspiration!

5788.4 K – Time to head out again! I take advantage of an early morning run on the beach and we have a big breakfast before breaking camp and heading to Cape Tribulation, one of the few places in the world where the rain forest meets the ocean.

5837 K – Take the car ferry across to Cape Tribulation. After crossing, we stop at Ridgeway Farm, privately owned land with some walking trails. The friendly owner, an expat from London, tells us about his property and how the lands have been dry on account of five months without rain. The trails are still wonderful. Even the pesky green ants can't take away our excitement at wandering through the world's oldest living rain forest. Before heading to our campsite on Noah Beach, we stop to book our snorkeling trip for tomorrow. We're going to see the Great Barrier Reef!

5902 K – Noah Beach has the worst campsite ever! Just our luck, the tiny space we've been assigned over the phone is the crappiest one here! It's got bumpy ground with glass shards all over it, and our tents barely fit. We try calling the Parks Department but the nice guy tells us the computers are down for the day and we can't change sights, even though there seem to be several available. Oh well. There are toilets, but no showers, so we'll have to bathe in the salty waters for the next few days. No dingo pee here to blame our smells on. Too bad. We make the best of it, having a dip in the ocean and pray that stinger season has not started yet. We make a simple dinner (spaghetti and red sauce). We laugh so hard when we realize that the water jug Kevin filled this morning in Port Douglas has a tree frog holding on for dear life onto the inside lid! We release him into the wild, but not before thinking about adopting him as a pet for the rest of our road trip!




5918 K – Today we snorkel the Great Barrier Reef! The Rum Runner catamaran is spacious and the staff is very knowledgeable and professional. I'm one of the last to get in the cold water, as I have to try on several wet suits before I find one that fits. Kevin's already in the water and waits for me as I put on my mask and fins. I know it's going to be a wild day when Kevin asks me (right before I jump in), “What do you want me to show you first? A shark or a stingray?”

It's an amazing day! The coral is so colorful – purples, reds, and blues dot the ocean floor. The sea is teeming with wildlife – colorful parrot fish crunching on the coral, giant clams, gargantuan sea cucumbers that regurgitate their intestines for protection (we saw it!), tropical fish, and yes, sharks and stingrays. It's a great experience, even though we're shivering cold and I'm afraid to swim into scary creatures. A magical day!







5925 K - But it's not over yet. On the way back, we stop at Marrdja Boardwalk to walk through the swampy land. It looks a lot like our Everglades back home. Birds chirp, mangroves bubble, and we pray that the crocs have gone elsewhere!




It is a very early night for everyone. We are all exhausted and sleep well. Not even the rocky ground or annoying sand fleas can deter us from having serene aquatic dreams.

5978 K – This morning we wash our breakfast dishes out of a bucket and scratch our bites before we're back on the ferry again to cross back. Today our destination is south to Townsville, gateway to Magnetic Island.

6065 K – It's a beautiful drive. We stop in Cairns and take a short walk around this pretty town. Kevin takes a dip in the salt pool and we have lunch before we get back in the car to finish our journey to Townsville. Cairns proves to be our nicest lunch stop yet!

6426 K – We make it to Townsville with just a little bit of daylight left. The campsite is more of a trailer park. It's filled with converted buses and we camp at an intersection, right next to where the train passes. Yeeehaaaw! We have arrived in Bogan (Australian redneck) Territory! The menu prices don't seem to match the annual income of our neighbors– a Sizzler's steak is $30! We opt for pizza, a slightly cheaper option.

6447 K – Next day. We restock on much-needed supplies before driving to the ferry port to Magnetic Island, only 11 kilometers from the mainland and named in 1770 by Captain Cook when his ship's compass went crazy as he sailed by.

6456 K – Our ferry times were mixed up, so the next one doesn't leave for another 1 ½ hours. No problem! There's free internet and Kevin and I catch up on e-mails, the blog, etc. Time wisely spent! We soon take the 45 minute ferry to Magnetic Island, get back in the car, and start looking for accommodations where we can pitch a tent.

6467 K – Stop the car! Stop the car! It's our first koala sighting! OMG! They are soooo cute! We get out of the car and take 50 picture of this confused koala who has just woken up from his nap on the eucalyptus tree. It's so fluffy! I just want to cuddle and hug it, but it's sharp claws keep me at a safe distance. Mama didn't raise no fool . . .





6470 K – Another great campsite. Best one yet. Bungalow Bay is so nice, and it happens to be a koala sanctuary. We set up camp under the sweet frangipani trees. That afternoon, we walk to Horseshoe Bay. This island is full of wildlife! We spot turtles and manatee (called dugong here) in the water and on the way back home see more koalas and flying foxes, huge scary bats! We will feed the green, cacophonous lorakeets at our campsite and they will reward us with bird poop on our heads!

Last night it rained but our tent has stayed dry. Thank goodness! After a pancake breakfast, we drive around the island looking for a good snorkeling spot. But the winds are strong and the sea is choppy, so Kevin and I opt to hike to two secluded bays. Radical Bay is lovely, its tall palm trees providing shade in between our dips in the ocean. Balding Bay is even more gorgeous, and turns out to be the island's unofficial nude beach. Surprise! The giant granite boulders give us privacy and you know what they say, “When in Rome . . . “ I did keep my watch on, though ;)

This morning we did the Forts Walk. Kevin spotted the first of many koalas along the track, so guess who gets a free beer tonight? Magnetic Island has been great, with it's easy-going attitude and slower pace of life. The locals must take a hint from the koalas. Those cuddly marsupials eat eucalyptus (which takes up 20% of their energy to digest) and sleep up to 20 hours a day. Now that's the life!

This afternoon we will visit our favorite secluded beach again (this time I'll leave my watch behind). Tomorrow we leave our little island paradise. We're not too worried, though. In this country, picture perfect beaches seem to abound. We head south to Arlie Beach, where Nic will spend a few days sailing the Whitsundays while Kevin and I explore the coast. Going back to work someday is going to be VERY hard!