Idalis:
We started having doubts about going to Lombok as soon as we got on the slow boat ferry. We knew it would be a long five hours, and hawkers and vendors came in like tidal waves before it took off, selling everything from nasi campur (mixed rice) to casava chips and sweets. We couldn't buy from everyone, but settled on a friendly woman who was balancing a huge basket of snacks on her head. As we paid (one dollar!) for our nasi campur, her friend furrowed her brow and screamed at Kevin, “BAD MAN!” for not buying from her. We hoped that this unfriendliness was not a sign of bad things to come.
We were somewhat wrong.
Lombok is the island just east of Bali, and travelers have been making the short jump from the popular island to its neighboring quieter one for years. Unlike Bali, which is Hindu, Lombok is inhabited mostly by Muslims and some Christians. We would be visiting Lombok during the holy time of Ramadan. A few years ago, tensions and skirmishes between the Muslims and Christians caused tourism to fall in Lombok, something that the island is still trying to recover from.
Senggigi, Lombok
Our first destination was Senggigi, Lombok's original tourist town. We were inspired by our Lonely Planet guide, which had this to say about Senggigi, “You can spend a lifetime of travel in search of the perfect beach, and it would be hard to top those around Senggigi.” That sounded perfect to us!
What we found, though, was a rather sad ghost town trying to pick itself up from low tourism. Yes, it had beautiful deserted beaches, but the rainy weather and aggressive locals who were hungry for your business cast a somber mood on the whole place. We walked for what seemed like hours to find a decent room for a decent price. Lucky for us, our guest house was close to the mosque, and the muezzin's ear-splitting call to prayer seemed to be broadcast, in stereo, for our benefit 24 hours a day. Didn't he ever take a break? When we finally put our heavy bags down and looked around our paint-chipped, moldy surroundings, I collapsed on the lumpy mattress, let out a (very) audible sigh and declared to Kevin, “I want my mommy!”
As they say, though, things always look better in the morning. We actually chatted with some friendly locals who were not trying to sell us tours to Rinjani volcano, and when the weather cleared somewhat in the afternoon, Kevin and I ventured out for a walk on the beach. The sweeping bays and white-sand beaches really were beautiful, and we found a small Balinese-Hindu temple set on a rocky volcanic outcrop that spilled into the sea. We sat at the sand's edge and gave thanks for our turning optimism and for the fact that we didn't have to live in this strange, po' dunk town.
Gili Air Island
The next day, we took a small shuttle bus to Bangsal Harbor, where we would take a boat to the island of Gili Air, one of three small islands known for their turquoise waters and excellent snorkeling and diving. In my excitement, I almost trampled over the locals trying to get onto the heavily-loaded outrigger. You couldn't get me out of Senggigi fast enough! We climbed over bags, head-scarved women, prawn crackers, and dead chickens to find a spot for the 20 minute journey over. The stinky smell of durian couldn't even dampen my spirits. We were going to a little slice of paradise!
Although the bungalow we found was rickety (at best) and the shower water was brackish, we really enjoyed our time on Gili Air. There are no cars or scooters on any of the Gilis, and public transportation consists of cidomo rides, horse-drawn carts. Blissfully quiet! Since you can walk around the whole island in just 90 minutes, there wasn't much to do except go snorkeling, eat fresh fish (including yummy barracuda), and work on our tans. We were happy to oblige!
The water was beautiful, warm, and SOOOO clear! One day, Kevin and I went on a glass-bottom boat for a snorkeling trip around the three islands of Gili Air, Gili Meno, and Gili Trawangan. We saw coral reefs, massive turtles, and colorful fish (which would eventually become our dinner). We had a nightly ritual: find a beach-side restaurant with a cool breeze, nurse a Bintang beer, and watch the full moon light the waters. The perfect antidote!
6 comments:
Hello Precious Travelers...
It is always a happy thing to find a new post to read. As is becoming our custom, Jeremy and I sat together and looked at the pictures one by one. When we were looking at the picture of you cuddled close, sitting by the ocean, I told Jeremy that Uncle Kevin and Tialis like the beach. Jeremy immediately replied,"Jeremy, too!" I know that makes both of his uncles happy.
Reading some of your posts makes the world seem like such a small place and others make it seem so big and diverse. But everywhere people are living, working, loving, caring, fighting, struggling, surviving. I am thankful for the love God has shown to us through His Son and sad for those who have not experienced it. And yet His rain falls on us all, and His sunshine warms us.
I just turned my head to see Jeremy running in place and announcing to me, "I'm running!" He is so full of energy and has a great sense of humor, gives lots of hugs and kisses, and is crazy about his Papa.
Grandma sends her love, always with a tear or two. She, as well as the rest of your family and friends miss you both. What a happy, happy day your return will be:)
"Wow" the pictures this time are astounding! Kevin, the picture of you in the cave. I have to ask what brand name of mousse did you put in your hair to get it to rise so high? lol. :>} The picture ouf you and idalis sitting on the beach looking so lovely and content is a real kepper. Idalis, I didn't know you could jump so high for such a little person, this rivals Michael Jordans jumps now I can call you "Air Idalis" "WoW". So you like the taste of Cuda. I do too. I use to go down to the keys and fish the shallows for cuda and snook. Mostly caught cuda, and would dress it out for the nights meal. It really is a good tasting fish. It is very interesting following you guys to all your destinations on Google Earth. I can go there on my I-phone and zoom right in on all the destinations you guys are visiting. Pull up pictures of those places and read about the local area. It really is quite interesting. By the way Kevin. Did you go to Dreamland Beach and do any surfing? What's up with you! No surfing post! come on give the old man some surf stories. lol
God Bless and safe travels
love
Pop-a-Long
Hello my dear friends. I love the new bikini Idalis! Is that something new you bought along the way? Are you planning to go to Uluwatu? I hope the rest of your time in Bali is as peaceful as this set of islands that you are at now. I love the beach pictures, you both look very tan and happy!
So very tan!!! More jealous than ever as school is back in and I have no planning period!!! In fact the bell rings in two minutes and I am trying to get my vagalong groove thang done before then.
Kisses!
Saw Sarah at Tobacco Road taking in Calahoney (Ima so horney)Friday night. Quayny went and the Surfirder Executive crew was there listening to the massive good tunes they putten out.
Hey Kevie, you get my email with my 30 year old advice about beaches and breaks? Levina beach was one on my list. Do they still sell Ankor beer?
HELP, kevie who did we rent the car from in Costa. You hooked us up good Anie!
Be cool and enjoy Bali 2. Remember if the winds are onshore at Ulu & Pedang go to the other side to Sanur or Nusa.
B Cool!
Vagamom, I love the sound of your new custom. We almost collapsed at the last picture we saw of Jeremy. He has gotten so big. So big, in fact, that he will definitely be ready for some quality time in the water when I return. We love and miss you and give Grandma a kiss from us both!
Pop-a-long, Okay, the first surf post is up! Sorry no pictures yet, still working on it. The first break was way out and Idalis couldn't even see me let alone get a photo. The mousse is from Clairol and it is called "Wind Tunnel!" The barracuda was great, we will have to do some fishing when I get back. I also have a nice recipe for jellyfish! Love you and working hard to honor your request for photos!
Sarah, Gilli Air gave us some good tanning time. Idalis' bikini is one she brought from home. I have been urging her to get a new one, but haven't found the right one yet. We will be going to Ulu Watu. Leaving tomorrow morning for the south. Hope you and Shawn are well, we miss you and think of you often.
Laura, No planning period, that is ridiculous! All the more reason to make the Calahoney thing work!!! Love and miss you and Josue. Tan wishes from Bali!
Wyita, My darling precious! I did get your email. Sorry to not respond yet, maybe today. Don't worry about thirty year old info, Bali moves pretty slow and most of it is still right on. Yes, they have Anker, but we have been mostly drinking Bali Hai and Bintang. I will have an Anker for you tonight though! Lovina was great, though flat. The snorkeling was awesome! Not going to the east side of Bukhit, heard it is all right handers. Leaving tomorrow morning for eastern Bukhit. Will have updates on Ulu, Padang, Dreamland, Impossibles, Bingin and Balingan. I will also work on the car rental for Costa. Not even sure where I might have that info. I will let you know. Peace and progresso, the one with mushrooms and garlic!
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