DESERT STORM: A TOUR THROUGH RAJASTHAN PART III

Sunday, February 22, 2009 @ 18:10 PM

Idalis:

Whew! We just arrived a few hours ago back into Delhi, after completing our 18 day Rajasthan tour. Kevin and I are so happy we decided to spend the extra rupees and see it this way. We were able to see a lot of the country side, mostly very poor villages. Along the way, we saw countless men squatting at tea stalls, women balancing huge pots on their heads, happy children bathing next to the village's one pump, and high piles of cow dung patties drying in the sun. Here are some of the highlights of the last leg:

Pushkar, Rajasthan





Pushkar is considered to be one of India's most sacred sights. According to legend, Pushkar was created when Lord Brahma (the creator) dropped a lotus flower to earth from his hand. Where the petals landed, three lakes formed. During the full-moon phase of October/November, pilgrims come from all over the country to bathe in these holy waters, believing they cleanse the soul of all impurities. It's also the sight of the yearly Pushkar festival, the largest camel market in the world, with over 150,000 people attending! The rest of the year, it seems, Pushkar is a place to buy souvenirs, get harassed by fake priests, and score pot.

The first thing Kevin and I did before leaving our hotel room and hitting the streets was to tie a red string around our wrists. Why, you ask? As Pushkar is a prime tourist destination as well as being a holy city, local Brahmin priests are pushy about having you perform “Pushkar puja,” which includes throwing flower petals into the lake while repeating prayers, and then giving a “donation,” which entitles you to the red string around your wrist. Some of these self-proclaimed priests are fake, and will ask you how many members there are in your family, say a blessing for each, and then charge you for each family member piece-meal! Despite our hand-made “Pushkar passports”, we still had one “priest” harass us after he gave us a flower and we refused to go down to the lake with him. We waved our red-stringed wrists in the air to show we had already done this, but the phony still yelled at us for not giving him baksheesh. Oh well!

Despite the phonies, Pushkar was a pleasant enough town. The blue buildings, reflected in the holy waters, look best as the sun is setting. Kevin and I enjoyed spending time at our quiet hotel's deck and looking over the lake. We got to see our second Rajasthani song and dance show at the Sai Baba Haveli. As this included a buffet dinner, the 150 rupee ($3) price tag was unbeatable! One night, Kevin had the idea to go to the stairs of the ghats to watch the sunset, as we had seen many people do. We thought it would be a peaceful experience. We should know by now! Our “peaceful” sunset was interrupted by various hawkers selling carved elephants, singing songs, or offering pot. So much for a private moment!

Jaipur, Rajasthan




Jaipur had a lot of historical sights to see, but the streets were extremely dirty and congested. Thanks to Charlie, our driver, we were able to get to the sights hassle-free and see them all in a day. We saw Hawa Mahal, or “Palace of the Winds,” built for royal Muslim women to watch street processions while still remaining in purdah (veiled). We walked up to the Amber Palace and Fort, and had beautiful views of the city below, and had fun watching other tourists uncomfortably ascend on top of ornately-costumed elephants. We visited City Palace and Jantar Mantar, which contains eighteen huge astronomical measuring devices built for the Maharaj. As I have little patience for complicated math and science, I didn't understand most of the sundials and observatory, but the shapes were interesting and futuristic-looking. Kevin kept saying what a great skate park the place would be!

Our favorite part of the day, though, was going to the Raj Mandir Cinema, one of India's most famous movie theaters, to see a real Bollywood film! Although “Billu the Barber” was in Hindi, we still had a great time, sitting in plush seats (they're assigned!) and stuffing our faces with popcorn (only 20 rupees!). The only bad part was that when I went to the bathroom, my sunglasses slipped off my head and slid down squat toilet. Needless to say, I'm now in the market for a new pair of cheap shades.

One night, Charlie took us to his favorite Muslim dabha (roadside eatery) for spicy mutton and the fluffiest chapatis ever. I tried not to look around (I was the only female) but enjoyed the meal, nonetheless. Kevin seemed to also, but that night woke up with horrible vomiting, diarrhea, and fever. The worst of it lasted only 24 hours, but since we still had to continue moving, it made for an uncomfortable journey the next day, and he found himself squatting in the middle of mustard fields on the side of the road. I'm happy to report he's feeling 99% better and so are the mustard fields.

Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh




After changing our plans slightly (arriving in but leaving Agra the next morning), we decided to go to the city of Khajuraho next, which Kevin and I were really looking forward to. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Khajuraho is home to about 22 temples, which have erotic sculptures carved into them. Although we had read about the aggressiveness of touts and sellers, Kevin and I found it to be a pleasant enough town. We loved the temples with their ornate and finely detailed titillating carvings, including sinuous nymphs and gods, and sexual positions that seemed to defy gravity. The temples were beautiful and the grounds were pretty, with bougainvillea dotting them. Our simple hotel, Zen, had a nice courtyard complete with a garden and lotus pond. Even more exciting, though, was the cable television in our room! Kevin and I, not having watched TV for months, were entranced by the BBC and bad movies we would never watch back home. For us, it was a nice stop, and a rest in what had become a fast-paced car tour.

Orchha, Madhya Pradesh





On our way back to Agra, we stopped in the city of Orccha, also known for its historical temples, just not of the erotic variety. Although not the “tranquil countryside” the guidebook would have you believe – What in India is? - it was a nice stop. We visited Chatturbuj Mandir, a crumbling old majestic temple with arched balconies and high ceilings. One of the local young guides broke into a locked door and took us up to the temple's rooftop (for a bit of baksheesh, of course) and Kevin and I got great views of the aging palaces, temples, and tombs of Orchha. We even found a quiet spot! After walking behind the grounds of Raj Mahal palace, Kevin and I found a weed-choked path that lead to the River Betwa. We sat for a few minutes and enjoyed something we hadn't experienced for a very long time: silence.

Agra, Uttar Pradesh




The town of Agra itself is a disgusting, hot mess. But it was worth it to see the Taj Mahal! It was built by Shah Jahan in memory of his favorite wife, who died shortly after giving birth to her fourteenth child in 1631. Devastated by her death, the monument stands as the ultimate tribute to love.

We woke up at 5 AM that morning to see the Taj Mahal at sunrise. We took a cycle-rickshaw at dawn and made our way down the dark streets, huddled together because of the early morning cold. The long lines and 750 rupee price tag were worth it. When we walked through the arched entrance and first laid eyes on it, I cried. It is beautiful, and the white marble structure is absolutely perfect. All of the hoopla that has ever been said about it is true. It is the most beautiful man-made structure I have ever seen, and it deserves all of the attention it receives. Although there were crowds of people, the environment was surprisingly peaceful, and Kevin and I walked around the grounds, went inside the mausoleum, and tried to view it from every angle imaginable. We sat down, held hands, and thanked our lucky stars for this amazing opportunity. Not even the hundreds of touts could spoil our mood, and as we walked out of the complex, it was as if the Red Sea itself were parting, and miraculously, no one bothered us with Taj Mahal key chains or fake marble boxes.

Our car tour has ended. It was a good way to see Rajasthan, which is densely packed with many sights, tourists, and endless unfriendly hawkers. We're taking a break from the sights now, and are heading further north to Rishikesh for some yoga and (relative) relaxation, and a reunion with our Australian friend, Nic. Stay tuned!