A PAUSE IN PELOPONNESE (Part I)

A PAUSE IN PELOPONNESE: (A two part series highlighting our stay on the Greek Island of Peloponnese)

Part I: Nofplio, Greece
Thursday, October 2nd at 12:42
Kevin

So, here we sit in a bus terminal in Corinth. We just arrived on a bus from Nafplio about ten minutes ago. We used the facilities, paid the usual using the facilities fee, which coincidentally never seems to cover a toilet seat, or in some cases toilet paper, and set up a table and a couple of chairs in the corner next to a plug so we could charge the computer while we write this post. I was advised, when I bought two bus tickets to our next stop, Gythio, that the bus just left about twenty minutes ago and the next one is not until 15:50, that's a three hour wait in this hot, stinky, bus terminal where the flies are incredibly aggressive!

As most of you steady readers are aware, we justed parted ways with my parents at the end of the Italian leg of this tour. It was a sad moment for all involved. With the conclusion of the appointment with my parents in Italy, we are now essentially deadline free until we meet Katie in New Delhi (at night) on the 12th of November. As a result, we have collectively decided to amend our strategy. We have promised ourselves to slow down, spend more time in the places that we like and try to avoid spending any less than three nights in any one place. Our original break neck pace to get out of Europe with some Euros left over was starting to wear on us. Now that we have arrived in Greece which is absolutely beautiful and much more affordable, we are looking forward to slowing down a bit and convening more with nature. Our first stop, Nafplio, Greece, for three nights and four days.

Our time here was wonderful and truly relaxing. Surprisingly, we were able to get internet access for free, which gave us a chance to catch up on all internet related activities, such as balancing accounts, making Skype calls, and researching the rest of our time in the Peloponnese, which is really Idalis' job as she likes it and does it so well. We have decided that she determines where we go and it is my job to get us there. I have been advised that accomplishing that with as few three hour layovers as possible is desirable!

Upon arriving in Nafplio, we were shocked to see how strikingly similar this coastal area is to the Cinque Terre, our favorite spot in Italy. It is rough and rugged coastal terrain complete with rocky beaches, rugged outcrops, crystal clear water, seaside hiking, historic points of interest and lots of wildlife. The main difference is that Nafplio is not overrun with tourists. On the contrary, it is quite sleepy and quiet. A welcomed change. As is our usual M.O., we say that we are gonna rest when we arrive on the first day, but rather excitement takes over and we go out and explore and try to get oriented while taking note of the lay of the land. This time was no exception. We unpacked, organized the room and headed out. First, we walked down to the local beach to check it out. We would have probably opted for a swim. However, it was getting late and with the hour also came cloud cover and some cold rain. We waited out the quick shower in a beach side cabana and then striked out to walk the pathway that hugged the edge of the cliff and overlooked the massive expanse of sea. An area so beautiful it inspired Idalis to run there every morning. Not knowing where it lead, we continued to follow it right in to, what we believed to be, the posh side of town. A small harbor, some expensive shops and a vast and seemingly endless line of sidewalk cafes with plush seating and great views of the pedestrian thoroughfares. It was pretty empty and we soon learned that the season had basically ended about a week ago when the rain and cold weather moved in. We concluded our walk and exploration of the town with a stop in at the local grocery store to pick up some stuff for the evening's meal and the following day's breakfast. We were incredibly delighted when we met the woman attending the deli. She spoke perfect English and we soon realized that her and her husband lived in Chicago for twenty years and had recently moved back into the property they owned in Napflio. She was incredibly helpful and kind and assisted us with a selection of grape leaves, salted sardines and uber fresh feta cheese from a wooden barrel that was made right in town. That night, we dined on a home made Greek salad comprised of chopped cucumber, tomato, yellow pepper, Kalamata olives and, you guessed it, fresh feta. We also had our fresh salted sardines over fresh baked bread, grape leaves and washed it all down with a three dollar bottle of Greek wine. This was no small feat as it was all accomplished with a Leatherman, a night stand and a bathroom sink. The following morning's breakfast was not to be outdone and was comprised of a fresh fruit salad with Greek yogurt and bran sticks, and fresh bread with Nutella (sound familiar Mom and Dad?). This breakfast, however, was made even better as we were lucky enough to be joined by our neighbors, Toby and Martina. We had met this fun loving and energetic couple, from Germany, the night before and had very quickly struck up a friendship. Unfortunately, this was to be their last day, so we joined them for a day at the beach until they had to leave at about 15:30. We had a great time talking about politics, music, education, travel and the differences between our two countries, all while basking in the warm sun and the crisp water. It was only to be short time, but it was a great time. We are pretty sure that they will read the blog, so Toby and Martina, we wish you a wonderful trip and hope to stay in touch!

That evening it was a quick gyro and a beer at 'Maria's Corner' and then back to the grocery store for a refill of the Greek salad ingredients and a rotisserie chicken, which was enough for dinner and a sandwich that I will eat after typing this post. The following day, was a little grayer and gloomier than the day before. However, the rain held up and the temperature turned out to be perfect for a hike up 1,068 steps, we counted, to the Venetian built Palamadi Fortress. This is by far the best castle/fortress that I have ever visited and yet another place that we were certain Shawn and Sarah would love. The views were breathtaking. You could see all the surrounding towns and the fortress stretched out along the entire rim of the mountain where it sat. It took us hours to explore every nook and cranny, every cistern, every jail cell, munitions hold and every one of the incredibly preserved bastions. I, of course, had to make Idalis a little crazy by climbing every wall and outcrop to get that 'perfect shot'. After our explorations, we decided to follow the road, previously used for vehicular traffic, into the next town and the 'sand beach' that we had heard so much about. The hike was amazing and yet again, the views incredible. We stopped along the way to eat a lunch we packed. After about an hour of walking, we reached the 'sand beach'. We were not terribly impressed. It wasn't quite what one thinks when they think 'sand beach'. It reminded me more of the type of shore that usually accompanies a lake. It was pretty full of litter, as the guide book had mentioned, and it was, for the most part, abandoned. So, we decided to turn around and head back, but not before we stopped to climb down a cliff where I could try out my newly purchased goggles with a short, and very cold, skinny dip around the point. Upon returning home, we took a short, okay, it was kind of long, nap and then went out to dinner at a local restaurant, right around the corner from the pension, where we dined on fried cheese, eggplant salad, fresh bread, stuffed lamb, fried calamari, baklava, house red wine and Mytho's beer, all for twenty-six Euros. I love Greece!

And so ended our three night stay at Dimitris Bekas' pension in the very charming little town of Nafplio, Greece and what lead us to this little bus station in Corinth where we eagerly await the adventures that lie ahead in the southern Peloponnese city of Gythio, Greece and the Camping Maltemi sight where we will be staying for five nights in cabin number four, equipped with a kitchen. Tomorrow will be four and one half years that Idalis and I have been together and I have promised to cook a dinner that will be totally grilled. Wish me luck and we will let you know how it goes. Andio!