MUD, MOODS, AND ROTTEN EGGS: A TYPICAL DAY

Sunday, February 14, 2010 6:20 PM

Idalis:

Rotorua

Who farted?

It's not a big van, and there can only be two suspects. Kevin and I stare at each other accusingly, our leers blaming each other for the foul stench. “Wasn't me this time,” Kevin says with a smile. “YOU had that meat pie for lunch!” I counter.

Turns out it wasn't either one of us. We just happen to be driving into Rotorua, known for its sulfur-rich air, sprouting geysers, and bubbling mud pools. The whole town smells like egg farts, and rolling down the windows only makes it worse!

We wander around Kuirau Park, a volcanic area that last erupted in 2003, covering much of the area in mud, including the trees! We stared at the pools of boiling mud (which you can buy in the souvenir shops as face masks) and soaked our feet in the mineral baths while holding our noses. We're fascinated by the crater lakes and huffing steam, which even makes the boardwalk under our feet hot!












Tongariro National Park

It's a few days later, and we've traded in the sulfur smells for . . . more eggy smells! But this time, we agree that it's definitely worth it! We've spent the night in the wee town of Turangi, in a car park, across the street from the information center. We're up at 4:30 AM to do the much hyped about Tongariro Alpine Crossing, a 7-9 hour walk which is famed to be the best one-day tramp in all of New Zealand.

We couldn't agree more.

Worth every minute of the often-challenging seven hours, the Tongariro Crossing does not disappoint. We traverse spectacular volcanic geography, passing red craters, steaming vents, and the beautifully colored Emerald Lakes, and the star: Mount Doom! Mount Ngauruhoe and neighboring Mount Tongariro are volcanoes that add an other-worldly feel to the whole experience. At the end of the day we are sweating, our calves ache, and we are exhausted, but feel giddy from having viewed such amazing scenery (and probably from dehydration, too). The mineral baths we soak in at the end of the evening almost make you forget the pain.



































Napier

We had been looking forward to seeing this city for a long time. Situated in Hawkes Bay, on the east coast of the North Island, Napier is known for its vineyards and architecture. It truly is a photogenic city. We started seeing the pastel Art Deco buildings driving in and immediately felt deja vu, and a pang of homesickness. It's Miami Beach! But without the plastic surgery!

Besides taking a million pictures that Kevin promises to show everyone in the Planning Department at the City of Miami Beach, we decided to drive out to a few of the vineyards in Hawkes Bay. We made it to two, but got quickly discouraged by the big crowds and insy-winsy servings. That's not even enough to taste it! With our palates craving larger portions, we decide to head to the supermarket and get a bottle of a local vintage to go with dinner. A few wine glasses worths– that's more like it!

































East Cape

After some wine and culture, it's time to head out to less sophisticated surroundings. We drive northeast and spend several days exploring the East Cape, remote and much slower. We take our time along the Pacific Coast, stopping at several blink-and-you'll-miss-it towns like Mahia Beach, Waihanui, and Hick's Bay. Most of these small towns have large Maori communities and stunning beaches. Known to be a poorer, underdeveloped are of New Zealand, we're puzzled by the shabby homes that hug the driftwood-littered beaches. Kevin surfs, I read, and we freedom camp in bays we have all to ourselves.





Mount Maunganui

It's time to rejoin civilization again. After days of deserted beaches and ocean baths, we're eager to wash the sand out of our hair and get a decent meal. We follow the Cape's jagged spine all the way northwest until we get to Mount Maunganui, named for the massive 232 meter hill that dominates the township. It's a vacation destination for Kiwis, with beautiful beaches and a lazy cafe culture. We love it, and spend a few days surfing (he) and lounging on the beach (me). On our last morning, we both wake up early. I go for a long run and Kevin climbs to the top of the hill for views of the western Bay of Plenty.

Do we really have to leave already?











Heading to Auckland . . .

We're coming up on close to our last week in New Zealand, and our last week of this amazing adventure. As we head into Auckland, Kevin and I are feeling a wave of emotions: happy, sad, anxious, excited, etc, etc, etc. We have a lot of loose ends to tie up, and we're keeping our fingers crossed that everything gets accomplished. Top on the list is selling Fern, which we know will be no easy task. As we're leaving when the tourist season here is almost over, there are very few buyers for backpacker vans. Everyone is doing the same. It's definitely a buyer's market, with any backpacker arriving in New Zealand now having the upper hand. Wish us luck in finding a new home for Fern!

P.S.

Living out of a van is not glamorous. Fun, yes. Economical, sure. Opulent, definitely not! We long for the day when we can stand up in our living space! For those of you who may have entertained the idea, here are some funny pictures to show you what a typical day is like for us:

Kevin checks to make sure the milk is still good and hasn't curdled:

























Looking for mosquitoes before going to bed:












Washing dishes in the dark:











Running water? In your dreams!













Stocking the pantry crate at Pak N' Save, kind of like Winn Dixie but with people walking around barefoot:













Cooking al fresco:












Becoming very acquainted with out houses:












Sleeping in parking lots:











Trying to work off all those yummy grass-fed lamb sausages we're eating:












Getting to know the locals more intimately: