LONG GRAY CLOUD

Friday, December 4, 2009 7:00 PM

Idalis:

New Zealand . . . for us, this country has conjured up visions of remoteness, Lord of the Rings backdrops, and tons of sheep! The indigenous Maori people named this land “Long White Cloud,” but our first week here was full of ups and downs and at times, we felt like a long gray cloud was looming over us.

Christchurch, South Island, New Zealand








Our flight into Christchurch was pretty uneventful until the last 20 minutes. That's when we got our first view of the snowy peaks of the Southern Alps, followed by some nausea-inducing turbulence! We found accommodations at what proved to be one of our favorite places to stay yet: Foley Towers, a pleasant, rambling house with comfy rooms and friendly staff.

Christchurch was a great place to get our feet wet . . . literally. The rain did not stop! For five days, it alternated between light drizzles and torrential buckets. But we didn't let that stop us! We took advantage of this English town's many great (and often free) sights and just jumped over the puddles into the museums. We took the free shuttle (yay!) everywhere. The centerpiece of the town is the beautiful Christchurch Cathedral. As usual, Kevin and I went in to give thanks for our many blessings (and hear the free Christmas recital!). We visited the city's well-kept Botanic Gardens, and spent hours at the absorbing Canterbury Museum and the Christchurch Art Gallery. We saw modern art, viewed ancient Maori artifacts, rode a unicycle, and heard a college band perform at the Arts Centre, all for free!

Kevin and I were in serious need of winter clothes. Having spent the last eight months in warm climates, we were not prepared for the wind, rain, and cold that the South Island is often known for. Walking through the leafy courtyard of our hostel, I noticed a sign that said “FREE CLOTHES.” Lined against the wall were bins filled with fellow backpackers' discarded clothing. Following our “Free Is Me” theme, Kevin and I went shopping! We can now proudly walk around this country like the other adventure tourists, decked out in Gore-Tex, Kathmandu, and North Face gear from head to toe! We found warm sleeping bags at the Salvation Army for NZ$3 and an ironing-board-cum-dinner-table for NZ$2 at the City Mission. My mother would be proud! We even got treated to an alfresco (read: outside the stadium) Pearl Jam concert that night!

One thing that we knew wouldn't be free, or anything close to it, was a campervan to travel in. Our plan was to buy a van big enough to sleep in and use it as our accommodation and transportation for traveling around both the South and North Islands, camping along the way. After looking at a few fliers, we went to Chester Street Backpackers, where we were told Antony, the owner, also sold used campervans. To make a long story short, we bought the first one we saw! “Fern” (we named her after the country's famous silver ferns) is an oldy but a goody (we hope). A silver '83 Toyota LiteAce with a built-in bed. She seemed to run well and fit our budget (about $2,200) and we hope to put a lot of miles on her! She has a few quirks (and many kilometers), but we are hopeful. We've fitted her up with our hand-me-down camping gear and Warehouse purchases, and look forward to our adventure!

Banks Peninsula, South Island







The morning we leave Christchurch, we meet two young German girls who have traveled around New Zealand for four months and are looking to sell their very nice van. It is much newer than ours, bigger, comes fully equipped with all camping gear, and is only about $300 more than what we paid for ours.

Have we made the right decision? Were we too hasty in buying the car? Maybe we should have shopped around more before making such a big purchase . . . All of these worrisome thoughts run through our heads as we head out in the car to the Banks Peninsula, about 90 minutes from Christchurch.

The ride, though beautiful, was quite tense. It was our first time in the car and every sound has us concerned. About 40 minutes into our drive, Kevin starts to smell oil burning. Ten minutes later, I break the radio trying to turn the dial. Third gear is hard to find, and shifting with the left hand takes some getting used to. Is that gas that we smell? Have we bought a lemon?

But our nervousness at trying out Fern for the first time couldn't take away from the absurdly beautiful scenery we saw along the way. The Banks Peninsula and its hills were formed as a result of three violent volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. Rolling hills dotted with pine trees, clear blue water bays, and more sheep than we've ever seen (there are nine for every Kiwi!) make it a gorgeous landscape. We found lodging at Onuku Farm Hostel, an eco-minded working farm, complete with sheep, cows, and a very loud (though colorful) peacock. The farm pet is a sheep named CSI. When we asked what the significance of the name meant, the owner clarified, “CSI MyLambi.”

Unfortunately, it poured buckets in the morning. Instead of exploring the 350-hectare farm, we were confined to the communal kitchen. Not too bad, though, since we warmed ourselves by the pot belly stove, played board games, and met some really nice travelers. The next morning, thankfully, the sky was clear and we did a “tramp” (what they call hiking here) through their beautiful farmland. As their property stretches to the water, Kevin and I walked down to their fishing bay and picked fresh mussels for dinner.







That night, we stayed in Okains Bay at a cute, simple campsite, right by the beach and peppered with shady pine trees. We cooked up the mussels, and later paid for it with a stomachache and dash to the bathroom! It was our first night sleeping in Fern, and we were toasty and warm even though the wind was howling outside.

We've been warned about New Zealand's temperamental weather. One minute it can be sunny and warm, and with the blink of an eye can change to cold and rainy. Lucky for us, the weather changed for the better. We woke up the next morning with a cold drizzle, but eventually the sun poked its head out of the clouds and made it a beautiful day. We met the local friendly park ranger, who had excellent cooking tips for mussels and told us to only ever pick those that are always under water. Oooops! We walked along the beach, caught up on some reading, and did an evening tramp along the bay ridge. All in all, a very beautiful and restful side trip.

After a rough start, the clouds are starting to part. Travel is never without its ups and downs, so we will brave whatever cold winds come our way! We are very excited to be here in New Zealand, a country full of friendly people, outlandish scenery, and more nature activities than we can probably handle! As it is our last destination, we feel that we may have unintentionally saved the best for last. This diverse, unspoiled, and utterly photogenic land truly lives up to its nickname of “God's Country.”