THE PILGRIMAGE

Sunday, April 5th @ 20:43

Kevin

Day 1: (25.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Nayapul to Tikhedhunga
AM: Warm and Mild PM: Cold and Rainy 540m ascent Hiked: 7km Alt: 1500m

Woke up in Pokhara at 7AM. Packed, checked out, put stuff in storage. Ate breakfast at Mike's Lakeside. Taxi to Baglung bus terminal. Bus to Nayapul. Start trek at 11:15AM. Trek through Birithanti, Lamdawali, Sudame and Hile, arriving in Tikhedhunga at 3:15PM. Secure a corner room with picture windows for 100 rupees ($1.25). Lots of steps, lady bugs and little kids asking for sweets and school pens. Stop for a cold dip in a swimming hole with 10m waterfall. Dinner of momos, pumpkin soup and fried noodles. Chased with some rum.




Day 2: (26.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Tikhedhunga to Deorali
AM: Cold and rainy to hot and partly cloudy PM: Freezing with hail and snow
1360m ascent Hiked: 4km Alt: 2870m

Woke up at 6:30AM. Tibetan bread with honey and boiled eggs for breakfast. Began hike at 8:27AM, Hiked through rhododendron, oak and magnolia forests. Climbed over 3300 steps from Tikhedhunga to next town, Ulleri. Give two small Nepali boys country coins (thanks to Katie) and last two “I Love Miami Beach” pins. Lots of waterfalls and streams. Arrive in Ghoropani/Deorali at 3:30PM. Get small room with view of Annapurna range for 200 rupees ($2.50) at 'Nice View' guest house. Mum gets new yak wool hat for the cold. I see snow fall from the sky for the first time in my life.




Day 3: (27.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Deorali to Tatopani
AM: Below freezing, snow on ground, clear skies PM: Warm and cloudy
140m ascent / 1750m descent Hiked: 17km Alt: 1200m

Wake up at 4:30AM. Put on all clothes we have with us and hike one hour up to Poon Hill through snow, in dark. Arrive at Poon Hill, with 100 other people, to watch sun rise and be treated to most incredible cloud free, unobstructed view of the entire Annapurna mountain range. Feeling very lucky! Hike a long hour back to guest house slipping and sliding on steep, icy trail. Meet group of 12 from Colorado staying in guest house. Enjoy breakfast and dinner previous night with 17 year old Matt, his grandfather, Tom, in his 70's, Tom's girlfriend, Tini, and their friends Joan and Becky. Begin days trek at 9:45AM after breakfast. First half hour of descending through steep, slippery ice packed trail, which gives way to half hour of trekking through slushy, muddy snow melt, which gradually gives way to dry, rocky trail. Longest day of trekking treats us to small villages, blooming forests, terraced fields, with Annapurna mountains as our backdrop and a raging river our soundtrack. Arrive in Tatopani at 5:00PM after 9 hours of trekking. Check into the 'Dhaulagiri' guest house, take the 300 rupee ($3.75) honeymoon suite, spend two hours soaking in natural hot springs, return to room for room service dinner by candle light, as there is no power. While soaking, run into friend, Gaby, from Tushita “Intro to Buddhism” course in Mcleod Ganj.




Day 4: (28.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Tatopani to Tatopani (day of rest)
AM: Cold and cloudy PM: Cool and cloudy with some rain
10m descent (to hot springs) 10m ascent (to room) Hiked: 0 Alt: 1200m

After three intense days of trekking, these flat landers decide to take a day off. Woke up at 7:30AM and laid around reading, napping and staring at mountains. Ate breakfast at 11:00AM. Walked along the Tatopani Bazaar and purchased new book, “The Snow Leopard”, and a needle and some thread. Soaked in hot springs from 4:00PM to 6:00PM. Ate dinner in room by candlelight again, even though power was on.




Day 5: (29.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Tatopani to Ghasa
AM: Hot and sunny PM: Cold, breezy, cloudy and rainy 900m ascent Hiked: 13km Alt: 2010m

Began trek at 8:28AM. So far, the most difficult day of trekking as a “new” (unpaved, large gravel) road has been constructed which occupies much of the original trail. Map shows no road. Despite hiking on road, scenery is breath taking. Sore day of hiking with calves, shoulders and quads hurting. Considered continuing past Ghasa but rain stops us at the “Florida” guest house. Met Marian, from Germany, on today's hike. Will end up spending next few days together. At dinner, meet group of six who all crossed the Thorung La pass and tell of hardships and successes. Had first daal bhaat (typical Nepali set meal) for dinner and great conversation with new friends.




Day 6: (30.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Ghasa to Larjung
AM: Cold and clear PM: Cold and rainy 720m ascent / 280m descent Hiked: 13km Alt: 2550m

Began trek at 8:29AM. Hiked on east side of Kali Gandaki river through several small villages. I fall in love with beautiful baby cow. Hiked through river bed. Stop in Larjung for new tradition of hot soup and cold coke. I want to push on, Idalis and Marian wish to stay. Impending rain forces us to stay. Good choice after all. We check into Larjung guest house. We are only three guests. Food is great, room is cold. Try yak cheese for first time and love it.




Day 7: (31.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Larjung to Marpha
AM: Clear, mild and sunny PM: Cloudy, windy and cold 200m ascent / 80m descent Hiked: 10km Alt: 2670m

Leave Larjung guest house reluctantly at 9:26AM. After night of rain, views of mountain range, surrounding valley, are mostly clear and stunning. Hiked into small village of Tukuche and visit local brandy distillery and get private tour from spunky 71 year old female owner. Sampled apple, apricot and peach brandy. Also visit small Buddhist gompa and stupa, spinning prayer wheels for good karma. Hiked through Kali Gandaki basin and into Marpha, home of the apple. Checked into Snow Leopard guest house. Had amazing dinner at Marpha Restaurant consisting of traditional Thakali dishes including an amazing daal, dried yak meat, and mushy, sticky meal made from buckwheat. Spoke to owner, Mrs. Sausi, and enjoyed home made apple crumble. Delicious!




Day 8: (01.04.09) The Jomsom Trek – Marpha to Kagbeni
AM: Cloudless sky, cool and sunny PM: Cloudy, cool and very windy 190m ascent / 60m descent Hiked: 15km Alt: 2800m

Began trek at 8:56AM. Sky was clear, no clouds and entire mountain range was visible. Got caught in morning traffic behind heard of goats. Hiked through several small villages and dry lake bed with 360 degree view of Himalayan mountain range. Arrived in Jomsom and attempted to procure a flight back to Pokhara. All planes booked for next two days due to religious festival in Muktinath. Decide we would take a Jeep back when time comes. Left Jomsom en route for Kagbeni. Try to take shortcut to lake bed. Must skip across rocks through stream of sewage. Idalis loses footing and left foot plunged into thick, black muck. Walk to river to wash Idalis' foot, sock, shoe and pant leg in icy cold water with incredible gusts of wind driving sand into every crack and crevice of our bodies and bags. Crossing pass on lake bed to Kagbeni comprised of two hours of constant wind. Wind strong enough to knock you over and almost does on several occasions. Wind sends plumes of sand and dust high into the valley. Arrive in Kagbeni cold, dry and windblown at 5:00PM. Secure a double room at Shangrila guest house for 100 rupees ($1.25). Have a great dinner and get to practice our Spanish with four trekkers from Spain and one Swiss girl that speaks Spanish.




Day 9: (02.04.09) The Jomsom Trek – Kagbeni to Jharkot
AM: Clear and sunny PM: Cold, dry and breezy 990m ascent Hiked: 8km Alt: 3550m

Share breakfast with new friends from Spain, then bid farewell. Owner of guest house gives Idalis, Marian and myself katas (silk cloth) to wish us a safe and happy journey. Begin trek at 9:43AM. Begin on wrong route, but works out as we get to see small town, which is incredible, and view the Mustang region from the border. Get on right trek and begin long, steep ascent with hundreds of Hindu pilgrims headed to Muktinath for celebration of god, Ram. Pass many groups of elderly pilgrims who make at least one pilgrimage to the holy city of Muktinath in their lifetime. Much of trail is along road that is busy from Jeeps transporting pilgrims and kicking up dust. Wind picks up at our backs at 11:30AM. Ascend almost 1km to small village of Jharkot where we are too tired to press on. Enjoy small lunch and check into room. Enjoy views of Annapurna range and see Thorung La Pass for first time, which lies at 5416m. Idalis not feeling well. Enjoy dinner with Marian and new friend Mike from Canada.




Day 10: (03.04.09) The Jomsom Trek – Jharkot to Muktinath to Tatopani
AM: Cold and clear PM: Mild and rainy 250m ascent / 2600m descent Hiked: 21km (41km by Jeep) Alt: 1200m


Today is our five year anniversary. Wake up at 6:00AM and skip breakfast. Say goodbye to Marian who plans to stay on. Begin trek at 7:00AM. Hike one hour up to holy city of Muktinath and into Muktinath temple complex. Stop by Buddhist gompa on the way. Surrounded by hundreds of worshiping pilgrims in temple complex. Meander around grounds witnessing teachings, prayers, possessions and offerings. Mark spot where natural spring waters, natural gas flames and earth all converge. Run into Marion who has also climbed to temple complex. Climb to Buddhist stupa, tie one kata to flag post, circumambulate stupa and give thanks for our great fortune. Begin hike down to catch Jeep at 11:00AM. Hundreds of pilgrims waiting for Jeeps. Try to buy ticket and told we would be on tenth Jeep, perhaps several hours. Decide to begin walking instead. Hail Jeep a couple kilometers out of Muktinath and must sit on roof due to overcrowding. Enjoy ride greatly and laugh the whole way down. Arrive in Jomsom one and a half hours later covered in dirt and dust but happy to have not walked. Attempt to procure ticket for Jeep again from Jeep stand. Once again told of several hour wait. Decide to test luck again and begin walking. Hail Jeep a few kilometers out of Jomsom and again sit on roof. Views are amazing and ride is totally enjoyable and memorable. Arrive in Ghasa two hours later. Once again, attempt to procure Jeep ticket. No sign of Jeeps. Decide to test luck one last time and begin walking towards final destination of Tatopani, home of hot springs and desired resting spot. No luck this time as Jeeps never pass and few taxis that do are full. Hike approximately three hours and 13km to town of Tatopani. Check in once again at the Dhaulagiri guest house and are soaking in hot springs, with exhausted bodies, by 6:30PM. Again take dinner in room and enjoy cocktails of Sprite and apple brandy.




Day 11: (04.04.09) The Jomsom Trek – Tatopani to Pokhara
AM: Cloudy and mild PM: Warm and rainy 380m descent Hiked: 0 Alt: 820m

Wake up late. No hurry to leave. Return to hot springs for second round of soaking as Idalis reads in guest house garden. Return from hot springs to pack and have breakfast. Check out of guest house and walk to bus stand. Still many pilgrims returning from Muktinath. Secure spot on mini bus but must stand. Make friends with Nepalese riders and answer questions and laugh as young Nepalese girl falls into my lap. Arrive in town of Beni and must switch buses. Get ripped off by mini bus conductor who says tourists pay higher price on public bus. All riders come to our defense. We pay only 60 extra rupees in end. Switch to large bus headed to Pokhara. Get actual seats this time. Ride is slow, bumpy and long, but enjoyable. Arrive in Pokhara. Say goodbye to all of our new Nepalese friends. Secure a taxi into town. Arrive back at starting place, Lubbly Jubbly guest house. Secure a room. Without showering, go out for wonderful dinner of steak, pork and a cold beer. Trek is over and another incredible experience has been added to our memory banks.