A "MAYOR" GOOD TIME!

Kevin: September 10, 2008 @ 12:59am

So, after leaving behind yet another incredible city, and a new wonderful friend (thanks Federico), we did our usual and caught yet another overnight train. However, this time we thought we would be a bit more clever. For one additional Euro, we were able to upgrade to “first class” which was sold as having fully reclining seats. Well, we have come to learn that the word “reclining” in Europe may not have the same connotation as it does back home in the states. We board the train with thoughts of big plush “reclining” lazy boy seats, only to find, essentially, the same “first class” seats we had on the train in Morocco, from Rabat to Marrakesh. However, yes, the seats died recline. But, in fully reclined position, there was nowhere left for one to place their legs between the seat in front of you. However, since Idalis and I had opposing seats, we fully reclined them and jammed in together, lying on our sides, to try and desperately accomplish our goal of sleeping on a train! It was a pretty uneventful ride. We shared our first class birth with two couples from northern Spain who had concluded their vacation in Barcelona and were headed home. They had been friends for thirty-three years. We talked about food, politics and immigration and then all settled in to our cramped quarters to try and get some rest.

The next morning we arrived in San Sebastian at about 8:00am. A beautiful little city in the northern Basque region of Spain. As we have become quite proficient in, we immediately grabbed a map, oriented ourselves and headed for the place rumored to hold baggage for a small fee. With a short walk, we arrived in the old town section of San Sebastian where we found “Cyber World”. Excited to drop off our backpacks and start some sightseeing, we headed for the door, only to find out they were closed and would not open until 11:00am. So, as we have also become proficient in, we did some sightseeing with our backpacks on and found a small cafe, “Two Italian Guys Cafe”, and enjoyed fresh croissants and cafe con leche. We also scoped out the local surf break in San Sebastian, know as Zurrolia Beach. With a short rest in front of a cute little cathedral and some reading, it finally became time for the internet cafe to open. We dropped off our bags, got a receipt and headed out the door. Free from the excess baggage, we headed back too Zurriola to get a better look at the surf and conditions. This beach is crowded, and I mean South Beach crowded. It appears as if all the locals, surfers from out of town and everyone getting surf lessons crowd into what is essentially a few hundred yards of beach break. There are people of all shape, size and color and even a few of which that were naked. All in all, a pretty cool place with some pretty decent surf. Putting the surfing aside and concentrating on the sightseeing, we headed to Mount Urgul. This is a small mount on the far end of an isthmus. The entire area is pretty much a park and comes complete with a castle, a fort, a marina, hiking trails, ruins, a bar some incredible vistas of the two crescent shaped beaches of San Sebastian and some of the strongest wind we have ever encountered. While at the top of the mountain, I get hit in the lip with a leaf that was charged by the wind. It felt like someone punched me! Nonetheless, this is a beautiful city. We explained to someone that it is the kind of place where you can point your camera in any direction and take a post card photo.

The main reason we decided to visit this area of Spain was to spend a few days with our friend, Javier, and his entire family, all of them. Javier and his family live in an even smaller town just outside of San Sebastian know as Hodarribia. It is an old fishing village that sits right on a river. On one side of the river is Javier's town, on the other is Hendaya, which is actually located in France. You can actually swim, rather easily, from Spain to France. Javier told us stories of how he used to paddle across the river to get to the beach at Hendaya to surf. And surf we did. After arriving in Hondarribia on Friday night, after our first day tour of San Sebastian, we awoke the next morning to go and surf in France. Hendaya is an amazing break. A long stretch of beach with tons of beautiful waves and lots of people. We surfed on a Saturday morning and as crowded as it was, it was incredibly calm, friendly and peaceful. French alongside Spanish and me thrown in for good measure. I had a great time and caught some really good waves on this old water logged surfboard that I borrowed and also happened to love. Thanks to Javier's brother Pedro for loaning it to me!

Without any premeditation and by pure coincidence alone, we arrived on what was the best weekend possible to visit Hondarribia. You see, this town has an incredible history. As I mentioned before, it was pretty much a town whose soul existence relied upon the ocean. Three hundred and seventy years ago, the French (funny that I should be writing this in our hotel room in Paris right now) invaded Hondarribia in an attempt to expand their frontiers. Well, the hearty fisherman of Hondarribia said a prayer to the Virgin Guadaplpe asking her for the strength to stave off the French invasion. Well, not only did they stave the invasion, but they sent the French home packing! As a promise to Guadalupe for aiding in their victory, they decided to honor the victory every year in what is know as “Alarde de Hondarribia”. I guess the simplest way to describe this celebration/festival is to say that it is a weeks worth of partying, drinking and eating, followed by a massive parade of “companies”, comprised of the willing volunteers of this small Basque community, and then more partying, drinking and eating. It does not stop. For one week, thank God we were only there for three days, the people of Hondarribia, and visitors from as far as, well, Miami, Florida, get together to wear red and white and play flutes, bang drums, fire cannons, ride horses, shoot shotguns and, did I say, party, drink and eat!? It was amazing! Never before have I been part of something so historical, monumental and positive. For all the drinking that was taking place and the throngs of participants and onlookers, I did not see or notice one single negative incident. This is a festival that includes the whole family. Streets are closed, business shut down and everyone congregates and socializes right out in the street in front of any number of the bars that line Calle (Kalea in Basque or Euskara as it is known locally) San Pedro. We enjoyed the Basque version of tapas, known as pinxtos, and any number of drinks, such as Txakoli, Cidra and Chorimoso. All in all, one amazing experience and one incredibly wonderful place!

Probably the most incredible part of our four days in the Basque country was the opportunity to stay with Javier's family, the Mayors. This is one group of incredibly gracious, loving, and might I say, beautiful people! We would like to take this opportunity to thank Javier, his mother Terese, or Tere for short, who is an absolute incredible woman who can party all night and then cook the most amazing meals the next day. We would also like to thank her children in order of arrival. Eldest sister Theresa, with husband Eduardo, and children Ander and Unai. Thanks for providing all the details and technical information regarding the history of Hondarribia and the history of your family. Thanks to Maria and her children, Antonio, Maria and Jose. Maria always has a smile on her face and is absolutely beautiful. Also Jose and Linda. Thanks to Linda for all the insider information. To Inego, the tour guide and Professor. Carlos and Sonia and their pets Nicolas and Wind. A huge thank you to Sonia's mother Elena, who allowed us to stay in the appointed basement of her incredibly beautiful early nineteenth century home. To Elena's mother, Pilar, other daughter, Liliana, her friend, Esther and finally to Zeus, we hope you feel better. To Pedro for letting me use his surf board and for serving up the best Mahou's in Spain! And finally, to youngest sister Ana and her boyfriend Borja, for the Basque/Euskara lessons. This was a great experience and an incredible family. This short visit reminded us just how important, and entertaining, family can be. Javier, we owe you big time. Just remember, you always have a place to stay on the Beach!!!

Agur and Eskerrik Asko!