SINGA”POOR”

Monday, August 10th @ 22:01

Kevin

Helpless desperation. After almost exactly one year of travel all of our experience and “wisdom” meant nothing. We were stuck. Just before setting out for one of the world's oldest rain forests, somewhere around 160 million years old to be exact, we did what we always do, we prepared for the journey. Only, this time, we would hit a major roadblock that would make the next few days tense and uncertain. We had about 260 ringgit to our names, or about 80 US dollars. After trying five different ATM machines, including the one for our very own bank, we were unable to pull any cash. We knew our trip to Taman Nagara would be, at the very least, a bit more than we had. But, we just couldn't seem to get our hands on any cash. So, not wanting to miss the experience and also having already secured our transport, we headed out, owing the misfortune to a simple mistake that was sure to be cleared up by the time we returned from the forest. We knew our immediate funds were running a bit low, but we also knew there was some money just waiting in the wings to be cleared.

Amidst our four amazing days of “getting back to nature” and meeting the coolest family in the world (Hello Romeros!), we tracked down a woman at the five star Taman Negara Resort that was kind enough to exchange 60 US dollars, at the going rate of 189 ringgit, even despite it being a “privileged for guests only”. Whew, we were out of the woods, so to speak, at least for the time being. Our plan to always have $100 cash paid off.

Our trip to Taman Negara was amazing, as Idalis so eloquently stated in the last post, and we left with only a few bucks to spare. We would arrive back in Jerentut just in time to catch some breakfast, buy some snacks and get to the train station for our eight hour journey to Singapore. The eight hour journey turned into a ten hour journey and we finally made it to the area of Bugis, where we were planning to stay, at eleven o'clock. On the way, we would stop at an ATM machine to get some cash. Strike two. Still, no cash. And, worse yet, a message that would say the card was inactive and a call to the bank would be necessary. We pressed on, a bit miffed, but sure that there was a valid explanation. After all, this ATM card had served us well for upwards of eleven months already. By the time we made it to our hostel to check in and pay, we had only 2 Singapore dollars left from the little bit of ringgit that we exchanged upon arriving. Not enough to eat, not enough to drink and not enough to make a phone call to the bank. Still not shaken, we knew that if we could just find an open wifi connection somewhere in the city, we could call the bank and most certainly straighten all this out.

So, as we have done so many times in the past it was off to McDonalds, no luck, then Starbucks, again spoiled, and then an attempt to sign into the city's wifi service, which is free for tourists, IF you happen to have a local phone number. Strike three! It is now 12:30 at night, or early in the morning if you wish, and still no luck. All around us people are eating, drinking and frolicking in a city that thrives on bright lights, material delights and plenty of cash. In a last desperate attempt, I decided to pay a visit to he Hotel Intercontinental. My strategy was to explain our situation and ask if we could simply sign on to their wifi service long enough to make a SKYPE call to our bank and straighten all of this out. After a long and heartfelt plea and a couple of trips back and forth, probably to the manager's office, Farhana came back with good news, she would patch our call through to the out of country collect number listed on the back of our ATM card. We would wait on hold for what felt like days to final be connected to the Administrative office that would tell us that our card was indeed locked due to the foreign activity noticed by the account reviewers. “Foreign activity?! Yah, NO S@#T! We have been traveling for a year already consistently making withdrawals from points across this great big world and after a year you decide to flag the card?” Well, I couldn't be too mad, the protection and oversight was all in our best interest and after a few tense days and some incredibly intense hours, we successfully made our first withdrawal in far too long. It was time to pour thanks out to Farhana for being our angel in disguise and hit the road running. Which is exactly the way it should be done in Singapore.





Once a bargain shoppers mecca, Singapore, or Singapora (Lion City as named by a Sumatran prince who is said to have spotted a lion upon his first visit here) has become “mall capital of the world”! It seems like any stop on the metro conveniently deposits you right smack dab in the middle of an incredibly designed and gratuitously sprawling shopping complex. And there are many of them. It would take weeks just to cover the interior air conditioned space of the countless retail outlets and stalls. And then, there are the markets and hawkers square, which serving food were our favorite. Singapore is quite the anomaly being a country of 4.6 million (and growing...rapidly), in an area of 604 square kilometers and boasting one of the cleanest and germ free environments in the world. It is approximately 76.7% Mandarin speaking Chinese, 14% Malay Singaporeans and 7.9% Tamil speaking South Indians, with a few other minorities, such as American ex-pats, mixed in for good measure. Touted as an experiment in social morays and behavior, we actually, to our relief, found it to be far more relaxed and easy going than expected. Despite it being impeccably clean, orderly and having a few too many cameras, the people are friendly, the vibe is one of excitement and hopefulness and there is a sense of individuality in the fashion and expression, especially of the youth.

August 9th was Singapore's 44th year of Independence from both British Imperial rule and invasion of the Japanese during World War II. We were lucky enough, once again, to be the beneficiaries of a local celebration. We sat along with the mostly Singaporean crowd in front of the jumbo tron screen as skits, musical acts, displays of military prowess and fireworks were displayed along the marina front in honor of Nation's Day. We stood for the national anthem, observed silently the pledge and celebrated into the wee hours with the thousands and thousands of locals who took to the streets. We also visited the world renowned Singapore Zoo and enjoyed, perhaps, the finest zoologic park in the world. We shopped, a small bit, in a local market, took the time to visit the local cinemaplex and catch a great movie, “UP”, spent a day at the most touristic Sentosa Island, including a trip down the luge, and, of course, ate ourselves silly.



















It was only four days, and despite a rocky start, it all ended wonderfully and we spent far too much than we should have, which is far too easy to do. We lived like true Singaporeans as we spent much of our time in the malls, better known as social centers, shared in a sense of pride for independence and prosperity, ate at the twenty four hour food centers and crammed onto the metro just in time to make it back home to plan the next day's adventure.

INTO THE WILD

Saturday, 11:58 PM

Idalis:

Kuala Lumpur

It was time to experience Malaysia's capital.

Unfortunately, our time in Kuala Lumpur got off to a shaky start. After a five hour bus ride from Penang, it took us over two hours to find accommodations. Kevin and I wandered the streets of Chinatown with our heavy packs in the heat, trying to find a reasonably priced room that wasn't infested with bed bugs. Oasis Guesthouse wasn't quite the oasis we were looking for, especially with its weird smells in the hallway and a never-ending squeaky washer. But, it was a room, we were tired, and it fit our budget. We were now free to explore the city!

We spent one day exploring the Colonial District. We visited Merdeka Square, where Malaysia's independence was proclaimed in 1957. We tried visiting Masjid Jamek, a famous mosque, but had arrived during prayer times. It looked nice from the outside! We saw the old railway station, a beautiful castle-like structure of Islamic spires and arches.

Another afternoon was devoted to the National Art Gallery, which we loved. There was a great exhibit by a Chinese artist who painted the city through his outsider's perspective. Being free and air-conditioned made it that much better!

A short bus ride away from the city brought us to the Batu Caves. A holy Hindu shrine and site of the 42.7 meter high statue of Lord Murugan and the annual Thaipusam festival in the Tamil month of Thai (which falls in late January/early February), where devotees perform amazing feats of self mutilation, including piercing portions of their bodies and suspension by hooks piercing their backs. The festival usually draws millions of devotees, but thankfully the day we were there was much quieter and only had a handful of visitors.



The highlight for us, though, was seeing the Petronas Towers. Kevin and I got up extra early one morning and waited in line for close to two hours to ride the elevator to the 41st floor. It was totally worth it. One of the world's tallest skyscrapers, we were able to see amazing city views from that perspective. We liked it so much, we went back to see it lit up at night!

When we weren't seeing the sights, Kevin and I were busy stuffing our faces. Kuala Lumpur is a serious eating town. Food courts are everywhere, and we took full advantage. From Indian roti canai to Chinese pork in a pot, Thai omlette and rice to Malay nasi lemak, we spent just as much time perusing the hawker stalls as we did pounding the pavement. A perfect balance!

Taman Negara









After spending so much time in a big cities and breathing in exhaust fumes, it was time to convene with nature again and go into the wild. Hence, our time in Taman Negara, Malaysia's premier national park.

Getting to this leech-infested was no small task. It involved a three hour nail-biting bus ride from Kuala Lumpur to Jerantut, local bus to Kuala Tembeling, and then three hour boat ride to Kuala Tahan, the jumping off point for this leech-infested jungle.

First things first: finding a place to rest your head. We loved the little bungalow that we (eventually) found at Durian Chalets. Although it had over-anxious ants in the squat toilet and leaned to one side so that when I woke up in the morning and stumbled out of bed I would crash into Kevin's bed, the peaceful surroundings and jungle noises at night more than made up for the overpowering smell of stinky durian fruit.

On our first full day, we hiked to the Canopy Walkway, a hanging rope bridge constructed of wooden planks and ladders that's elevated 45 meters above ground. In this case, simply walking was an adrenalin rush! Along the way, we met up with the Romeros, a French family we had met the day before on the lunatic-driven bus. Antoine and Carrine have two girls, Odet and , and the six of us spent the day together, pointing out wildlife and trying to scare each other on the high bridge. That night, we met up for dinner and had a fantastic time.

The next day, we all hiked for three hours to Gua Telinga, a cave infested with bats! It's only 2.6 kilometers to the caves, but we stopped often to admire the verdant scenery, take too many pictures, and get mini French lessons from the girls. The cave was awesome, and this is coming from a person who hates both dark caves and bats! A rope guided us through the dark, strenuous walk through the cave, and you had to be careful of not bumping your head into sleeping bats or placing your hand on bat poo, which was everywhere! After our hike back into town, we all jumped into the lake, which served a dual purpose: to cool down our sweating bodies and to wash off the crusty bat poo! That night, we spent hours playing cards, recounting our experiences, and laughing at our hysterics every time a bat had swooped by our faces.

On our last full day in Taman Negara, Kevin and I relaxed. We slept in, had a long breakfast, read books, and rested our tired bones. We met up with the Romero family one last time for dinner and both extended invitations to visit each other in our respective countries. Meeting the Romeros proved to be the highlight of our jungle trip, and we were sad that our time with them had come to an end. Later that night, Kevin and I took the path back home in the dark to our creaking cottage. As we walked hand in hand, we reminisced about all the wonderful people we've met on this trip along the way. People like the Romeros who have colored our experiences, shared a million laughs with, and then have to say goodbye to. We are always saying goodbye ...

To the Romero family: Thank you for the great laughs, amazing company, and French lessons. You are a beautiful family, and we hope to see you one day again. Until then, enjoy your travels and never stop exploring!

HUNGER PENANGS

Tuesday, July 28th @ 11:57

Kevin

Where in the world can you sit and watch a Chinese opera being performed in front of a Hindu temple that is flanked by a Catholic cathedral and a Muslim Mosk after enjoying an authentic Malay meal, prepared by a Tamil cook and served by Achean waiter in a restaurant, guarded by Nepalese security and owned by a Buddhist Hakkien expat? Malaysia, that's where. And more specifically, the small, turtle shaped island of Panang, located off the northwest corner of the mainland. A virtual melting pot of culture, Panang was an important port town and part of the major trade routes of earlier centuries. Now, more of a tourist destination, Panang still houses the same amount of diversity that it did when settled by several different ethnic groups, all wanting in on a piece of the trading action. Malaysia thrives on diversity and seems to do it very well. The harmonious co-existence of so many people from so many different cultural backgrounds seems to be done so effortlessly and with little to no conflict or friction. Each segment of the community providing its own specialty, each woven together to provide a most interesting and eclectic mix of culture, music, architecture and food, let us not forget the food. A fusion of Indian, Chinese and Malay, the culinary combinations of Malaysia are unrivaled and offer the most all encompassing array of flavors, scents and tastes. A veritable cornucopia of delights that are sure to satisfy even the most discerning of pallets.

Those of you who have been following this blog know by now that we are a couple of foodie freaks. So, when our visit to Penang was extended to a full week to ensure that we had plenty of time to sample each of the local favorites you'll understand. Here are just a “few” of the specialties on order: Char Kwat Teow – rice noodles stir fried with egg, veggies, shrimp, chicken and sausage in soy sauce / Chee Cheong Fun – dim sum rice noodles rolled and steamed with prawns and chilli sauce / Curry Mee – curly egg noodles in coconut curry soup with bean sprouts and prawn / Hokkien Mee – Spicy pork broth soup with noodles, bean sprouts, pork and egg / Laksa Asam – fish broth soup with sour tamarind paste and mint served with thick noodles / Rojak – fruit and vegetable salad with sauce of peanuts, sesame seeds and chillies / Mee Goreng – Fried noodles / Nasi Goreng – Fried rice / Nasi Lemak – coconut rice with egg, chilli paste and fried anchovies (breakfast!) / Roti Canai – thin flaky flat bread with spicy lentil curry / Roti Bom – thin flaky flat bread made with egg and sugar (breakfast alternative). And, for desert, there is shaved ice in the form of Chendol, which is mixed with coconut milk, green sweetened pea flour, and brown sugar syrup, or (my personal favorite) ABC, which comes with ice cream, tapioca balls, peanuts, corn, grass jelly and flavored sugar water that comes in fluorescent colors (sounds gross, taste great!). Mouth watering yet?



In between bouts of gastro saturation we actually had time remaining to visit many of the interesting, and not so interesting, sites and tourist attractions. Among the most interesting were the religious structures, such as Wat Chayamangkalaram, built on land granted by Queen Victoria and containing a gold plated statue of the reclining Buddha measuring 33 meters in length and the Dharmikarama Burmese Temple across the street, which we dubbed the Buddha Amusement Park for all the animated and automated features, including the rotating alms bowls that would challenge you to sink a sen (Malay cent) into. There was also the Kek Lok Si Temple, or Temlple of Supreme Bliss, with its “Pagoda of Ten Thousand Buddhas”, not to mention the solid bronze, 30.2 meter statue of Kuan Yin. Rounding out the group was the Mahamariamman Hindu Temple, the beautiful and impressive Kapitan Keling Mosque, built in Moghul style, the Church of St. George and The Cathedral of the Assumption. Last, but not least, the dozen or so Buddhist Temples scattered around town and representing each of the distinctive Chinese clans that were early settlers to Penang Island, the most impressive being Khoo Kongsi (Whew!).




























It's not all fun and religion though, there was also other interests, such as the clan jetties, which are essentially floating homes that extend out on piers and served the Chinese clan families, mentioned above, that chose to live close to the port for purposes of trade. Not to be left out are the numerous colonial contributions, compliments of the English, who have, coincidentally, left their mark everywhere, The City Hall building, Town Hall building, Penang State Museum, the Botanical Garden and most of all, Penang Hill, located 830 meters above sea level and accessed by the slow going, standing room only funicular (“fun” being in the name) train. At the summit there is a flower garden, mini bird park, guest house, canopy walk (closed for repairs) and, you guessed it, a mosque and a Hindu Temple.






Ironically, Penang is most known for its beaches and its coastal areas are lined up with one high rise resort after another. Unfortunately, or fortunately, we never made it to the beach. Why, with so much to do, see and eat we just couldn't find the time!

"CANKATA, CANKATA, CANKATA ... THIS IS VAGALONG!"

Friday, July 24, 2009 9:00 AM

Idalis:

Hue, Vietnam (six weeks ago):

Sweaty and tired, after miles of walking around Hue city, dodging crazy moto drivers and storm clouds, Kevin and I find an oasis: a small Vietnamese cafe. We sit, grateful for the shade and respite. A smiling couple is sitting next to us, enjoying their Sodoku puzzles and fresh fruit shakes. We exchange greetings, where are you froms, and ridiculous travel stories. Several hours and many fruit shakes later, we've become fast friends. Darrel and Loretta, the friendly Canadian couple, are our new role models. They left Canada five years ago to live their dream: to sail around the world on their catamaran. They've been to the most exotic places imaginable (Bora Bora, San Blas,etc.) and expect to finish their first circumnavigation in a few years. After a few more weeks of overland travel in Vietnam, they'll go back to their boat, which is in Malaysia. They'll be in Pulau Langkawi for several months, so if we're interested, “Come see us on CanKata!”

Telaga Harbor, Pulau Langkawi, Malaysia (six weeks later)

At the small marina, Kevin walks up the several flights to the Harbor Master's office. Tuning in to channel 69, he reads out the greeting we've been told to say, “CanKata, CanKata, CanKata. This is Vagalong!” Ten minutes later, Darrel and Loretta are picking us up in their dingy, with many adventures awaiting us!

CanKata is a beautiful boat. It is a Privelege 37 catamaran that is SPOTLESS! It has a total of three berths, two heads, lots of space on the cockpit, and my personal favorite: trampolines (not for jumping!) on the bow where you can relax and listen to the sound of the dual hauls sliding through the water. Perfect napping environment!




Our time on CanKata with Darrel and Loretta flew by. We cruised around the island of Langkawi for nine days, enjoying the knife-edged peaks and ocean waters. Our day trips were so much fun! While in Telaga Harbor, we visited a waterfall and bathed in it's cool waters. Too bad I got ten leeches on my butt from it! We hiked up a hill and at the top we were rewarded with views of . . . a U-turn sign! But bloody bottoms and anti-climactic treks couldn't spoil our mood. Kevin and I took a cable car that went up to Langkawi's highest peak and gave us aerial views of parts of the island. While docked in Tanjung Rhu, Darrel and Loretta took us on their dingy to visit some caves, see some mischievous monkeys, and watch the famous Langkawi eagles being fed. Being on their boat was so peaceful, and Kevin and I got to see secret spots and hidden coves that we would never have been able to experience otherwise.



















If our day trips were fun, then our nights were a blast. Boy do “cruisers” know how to party! Darrel and Loretta introduced us to the tradition of the evening “sundowner.” One night's liberal consumption of Mekong whisky, although fun at the time, proved to be our demise the next day. We had to sail through choppy waters, and as CanKata's crew, we were all looking green around the gills! Every night was filled with laughter. We learned how to play new card games (Winners and Losers) and Farkle, a dice game that we didn't tire of! Darrel and Loretta showed off their telepathic abilities with Snaps and Clicks, and drove us crazy because we couldn't figure out their secret language! Some nights we just stayed up talking into the wee hours about everything under the sun: politics, travel, religion, and the infamous burka.




Not everything on CanKata is fun and games, though. Darrel and Loretta work hard, getting up early every morning to perform chores and keep the boat in tip top shape. Things that seem harmless on land, like salt water and heat, can wreak havoc on a boat. They've come up with a calendar system to make sure everything gets checked routinely, and their suggestions have been published as articles in cruiser magazines. Their hard work and attention to detail has paid off. CanKata is a beautiful boat, and their pride shows through in its immaculate condition.




Darrel and Loretta, Kevin and I will always be grateful for the hospitality and friendship you've extended to us. It was a pleasure and an honor being aboard CanKata. We are so happy that you two, an amazing and loving couple, are living out your dreams. Thank you so much for this opportunity and we look forward to the next barrel of laughs with you. May the rum be cheap in every port and may you never have sand in your mud! Terima kasih!

BKK AND BEYOND

Wednesday, July 8th at 16:06

Kevin

Bangkok

It was Saturday morning as we boarded Air Asia flight FD3701, bound for Bangkok (BKK), departing from Noi Bai airport in Hanoi. We were both in shock at how fast our trip through Northern Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam came to an end. It seemed as if we had been planning this leg of the journey for so long and now it was all over. I believe that it is safe to say that we pretty much enjoyed, with the exception of our journey to Cat Ba Island, and took advantage of every minute. Most everywhere we went, people were incredibly friendly and hospitable, the food, for the most part, was amazing and lessons in history and human nature abounded. In addition to being just good travel, we were also fortunate enough to be schooled in many things Asian. However, despite being nostalgic, we knew there was no reason to be somber as we were once again headed to our beloved city of Bangkok.

We chose our flight out of Vietnam on a Saturday, specifically to be able to arrive in Bangkok on the weekend and have the opportunity to visit the famous Chatuchak weekend market. With over 15,000 stalls and approximately 200,000 daily visitors, it is a sight to behold. Unlike many markets that we have been to throughout our travels, Chatuchak is, by far, the best. Not loaded with the usual chachki, it is a home to creative, inventive and just plain genius vendors displaying their unique and original wares and crafts. Sprawling over an enormous area on the outskirts of Bangkok, it is impossible to see it all in just one day, though we did our best. Like most everyone else who visited that day, we left with arm loads of shopping bags, full stomachs and empty wallets. A highlight of our return to Bangkok.




While in Bangkok, we also took advantage of the cheap, easy and delicious food available along Rambuttri, the street where our guest house was located in the Bang Lamphu district. We enjoyed breakfasts of rice with omelet, fresh fruit and, of course, ice coffee with sweet milk. After that it was off to cross the Mae Nam Chao Phraya klong (river) for a stop by Wat Arun, which we missed on our last visit. Named after the Indian god of dawn, Aruna, the Khmer style praang (spire) is covered with a mosaic of porcelain tiles left behind by Chinese merchants.




Another uncharted diversion on our last visit to Bangkok was a trip down to the Siam Center, otherwise known as the most amazing mall complex I have seen to date. Comprised of three separate buildings, Center, Discovery and Paragon, Siam pretty much contains every commercial enterprise from outlet shops, to a Lamborghini showroom, and even a clothing store named “Keven”. The food court in the Paragon is what dreams are made of and in addition to having every type of food imaginable, and some I could have never imagined, there is also a bakery and a gourmet market, that should be the model for gourmet markets around the world. Once again, compelled by a great shopping opportunity, we left with full bags, full stomachs and a gaping hole in our finances.





As is always the case, time flies when you are having fun. Our second trip to Bangkok was over as soon as it began and it would be time for us to make our move to the marveled beaches of southern Thailand. But, not before we would indulge in one last round of our favorite Thai specialties on Rambuttri and throw a coin over our shoulders into the fountain at the bank on the corner, ensuring our return one day.

Wednesday, July 8th at 16:59

Kevin

Ko Samui

Not a day goes by where Idalis and I do not give thanks for the incredible opportunity we have to travel the world. Today is no exception, as I write this post from the porch of bungalow number 14 in the Shangrilah beach side resort located mere feet away from the sand and the lightly crashing waves on the island of Ko Samui, southern Thailand. Though our trip here comprised an overnight bus ride (read: no sleep), two sawngthaew (pick up truck taxi) transfers and a boat ride, traveling in Thailand is relatively easy, especially when compared to “other” places (read: India) that we have traveled. At the end of this journey we were fortunate enough to have arrived on the largest of three popular islands located on the southeastern coast of Thailand, on the Gulf of Thailand. Having gone for a large portion of our trip without seeing the ocean, our recent excursions to beaches have been most welcome.

Our decision to stay on Ko Samui did not come without extensive pontification. Every person that you talk to who has visited any of the islands of Thailand seems to have a completely different experiences and impressions. Formulating an opinion based on the information of others, as we so like to do, proved to be a most difficult task this time around. Of the three islands that we were considering, each had its share of pluses and minuses. Large crowds, crazy full moon parties and uncontrolled development, clashed with empty beaches, sparkling water and amazing seafood. In what can only be described as a twist of fate, Idalis struck up a five minute conversation with a girl that we passed while transiting to the city of Surat Thani, or the harbor town where we would have to make a final decision before boarding the ferry. She told of a small paradise on the island of Ko Samui known as Mae Nam. So, without knowing any better, upon arriving, we hailed a sawngthaew and got dropped off on the side of the road where the driver told us, “Shangrilah bungalows, very cheap!”. We walked towards the beach and at first were not too impressed. Although the beach was beautiful and quaint, we have the misfortune of comparing all beaches to our home beach at 3rd Street. Not only this, but all the bungalows we saw, though incredibly amazing in architectural style and location, were way out of our budget. After some muddling around in the hot sun and a few inquiries, we found it...Shangrilah! At only 300 baht (or about $9) per night, we were ushered to a small and character laden bungalow (number 14 as mentioned before) right on the beach.




It is here we would decide to shack up for a while. In fact, today is day number six and we have decided to leave tomorrow morning, at 6:30 AM, of course. However, the last few days have been as exciting and adventurous as they have been relaxing and lethargic. As has become our new fascination, we rented a motorbike and for two days spent every moment exploring almost every square inch of the island. We spent quiet time admiring wats and pagodas, many located right on the water, climbed to the top of two waterfalls, one very rugged, yet populated, and another more scenic and all to ourselves.





We cruised on the main highway checking out the other popular beaches and tourist destinations, agreeing that our pick was far superior, and rode along back roads and through small sea side villages. We also spent three days doing absolutely nothing but lying around on the sand and perfecting our tans. Our biggest decision being what to have for breakfast. Though the town we chose to stay in is relatively small, at least compared to other areas on the island, we have done good at mapping out the local culinary gems. The small “Mummy's Restaurant” doles out an amazing curry as the Mae Nam Thai Barbecue is an all you can eat feast of Thai specialties that you grill yourself on a flaming hot dome with a trough that collects all the drippings to make a fantastic finishing seafood soup. Though the beers were quite expensive, and the bottom of the barbecue pot fell out and showered flaming hot coals all over my left foot, we both agreed that it was the most amazing meal yet.




Tomorrow morning, early, we strike out on yet another bus, boat, bus excursion. This time, to the west coast of southern Thailand and the beaches of Krabi. It is here that we hope to turn even a few shades darker, do some snorkeling and kayaking, and for me, some real deal rock climbing and repelling. With only about one month left on our one year travel insurance policy, I suppose I better get it all out of my system now.