THE PILGRIMAGE

Sunday, April 5th @ 20:43

Kevin

Day 1: (25.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Nayapul to Tikhedhunga
AM: Warm and Mild PM: Cold and Rainy 540m ascent Hiked: 7km Alt: 1500m

Woke up in Pokhara at 7AM. Packed, checked out, put stuff in storage. Ate breakfast at Mike's Lakeside. Taxi to Baglung bus terminal. Bus to Nayapul. Start trek at 11:15AM. Trek through Birithanti, Lamdawali, Sudame and Hile, arriving in Tikhedhunga at 3:15PM. Secure a corner room with picture windows for 100 rupees ($1.25). Lots of steps, lady bugs and little kids asking for sweets and school pens. Stop for a cold dip in a swimming hole with 10m waterfall. Dinner of momos, pumpkin soup and fried noodles. Chased with some rum.




Day 2: (26.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Tikhedhunga to Deorali
AM: Cold and rainy to hot and partly cloudy PM: Freezing with hail and snow
1360m ascent Hiked: 4km Alt: 2870m

Woke up at 6:30AM. Tibetan bread with honey and boiled eggs for breakfast. Began hike at 8:27AM, Hiked through rhododendron, oak and magnolia forests. Climbed over 3300 steps from Tikhedhunga to next town, Ulleri. Give two small Nepali boys country coins (thanks to Katie) and last two “I Love Miami Beach” pins. Lots of waterfalls and streams. Arrive in Ghoropani/Deorali at 3:30PM. Get small room with view of Annapurna range for 200 rupees ($2.50) at 'Nice View' guest house. Mum gets new yak wool hat for the cold. I see snow fall from the sky for the first time in my life.




Day 3: (27.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Deorali to Tatopani
AM: Below freezing, snow on ground, clear skies PM: Warm and cloudy
140m ascent / 1750m descent Hiked: 17km Alt: 1200m

Wake up at 4:30AM. Put on all clothes we have with us and hike one hour up to Poon Hill through snow, in dark. Arrive at Poon Hill, with 100 other people, to watch sun rise and be treated to most incredible cloud free, unobstructed view of the entire Annapurna mountain range. Feeling very lucky! Hike a long hour back to guest house slipping and sliding on steep, icy trail. Meet group of 12 from Colorado staying in guest house. Enjoy breakfast and dinner previous night with 17 year old Matt, his grandfather, Tom, in his 70's, Tom's girlfriend, Tini, and their friends Joan and Becky. Begin days trek at 9:45AM after breakfast. First half hour of descending through steep, slippery ice packed trail, which gives way to half hour of trekking through slushy, muddy snow melt, which gradually gives way to dry, rocky trail. Longest day of trekking treats us to small villages, blooming forests, terraced fields, with Annapurna mountains as our backdrop and a raging river our soundtrack. Arrive in Tatopani at 5:00PM after 9 hours of trekking. Check into the 'Dhaulagiri' guest house, take the 300 rupee ($3.75) honeymoon suite, spend two hours soaking in natural hot springs, return to room for room service dinner by candle light, as there is no power. While soaking, run into friend, Gaby, from Tushita “Intro to Buddhism” course in Mcleod Ganj.




Day 4: (28.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Tatopani to Tatopani (day of rest)
AM: Cold and cloudy PM: Cool and cloudy with some rain
10m descent (to hot springs) 10m ascent (to room) Hiked: 0 Alt: 1200m

After three intense days of trekking, these flat landers decide to take a day off. Woke up at 7:30AM and laid around reading, napping and staring at mountains. Ate breakfast at 11:00AM. Walked along the Tatopani Bazaar and purchased new book, “The Snow Leopard”, and a needle and some thread. Soaked in hot springs from 4:00PM to 6:00PM. Ate dinner in room by candlelight again, even though power was on.




Day 5: (29.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Tatopani to Ghasa
AM: Hot and sunny PM: Cold, breezy, cloudy and rainy 900m ascent Hiked: 13km Alt: 2010m

Began trek at 8:28AM. So far, the most difficult day of trekking as a “new” (unpaved, large gravel) road has been constructed which occupies much of the original trail. Map shows no road. Despite hiking on road, scenery is breath taking. Sore day of hiking with calves, shoulders and quads hurting. Considered continuing past Ghasa but rain stops us at the “Florida” guest house. Met Marian, from Germany, on today's hike. Will end up spending next few days together. At dinner, meet group of six who all crossed the Thorung La pass and tell of hardships and successes. Had first daal bhaat (typical Nepali set meal) for dinner and great conversation with new friends.




Day 6: (30.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Ghasa to Larjung
AM: Cold and clear PM: Cold and rainy 720m ascent / 280m descent Hiked: 13km Alt: 2550m

Began trek at 8:29AM. Hiked on east side of Kali Gandaki river through several small villages. I fall in love with beautiful baby cow. Hiked through river bed. Stop in Larjung for new tradition of hot soup and cold coke. I want to push on, Idalis and Marian wish to stay. Impending rain forces us to stay. Good choice after all. We check into Larjung guest house. We are only three guests. Food is great, room is cold. Try yak cheese for first time and love it.




Day 7: (31.03.09) The Jomsom Trek – Larjung to Marpha
AM: Clear, mild and sunny PM: Cloudy, windy and cold 200m ascent / 80m descent Hiked: 10km Alt: 2670m

Leave Larjung guest house reluctantly at 9:26AM. After night of rain, views of mountain range, surrounding valley, are mostly clear and stunning. Hiked into small village of Tukuche and visit local brandy distillery and get private tour from spunky 71 year old female owner. Sampled apple, apricot and peach brandy. Also visit small Buddhist gompa and stupa, spinning prayer wheels for good karma. Hiked through Kali Gandaki basin and into Marpha, home of the apple. Checked into Snow Leopard guest house. Had amazing dinner at Marpha Restaurant consisting of traditional Thakali dishes including an amazing daal, dried yak meat, and mushy, sticky meal made from buckwheat. Spoke to owner, Mrs. Sausi, and enjoyed home made apple crumble. Delicious!




Day 8: (01.04.09) The Jomsom Trek – Marpha to Kagbeni
AM: Cloudless sky, cool and sunny PM: Cloudy, cool and very windy 190m ascent / 60m descent Hiked: 15km Alt: 2800m

Began trek at 8:56AM. Sky was clear, no clouds and entire mountain range was visible. Got caught in morning traffic behind heard of goats. Hiked through several small villages and dry lake bed with 360 degree view of Himalayan mountain range. Arrived in Jomsom and attempted to procure a flight back to Pokhara. All planes booked for next two days due to religious festival in Muktinath. Decide we would take a Jeep back when time comes. Left Jomsom en route for Kagbeni. Try to take shortcut to lake bed. Must skip across rocks through stream of sewage. Idalis loses footing and left foot plunged into thick, black muck. Walk to river to wash Idalis' foot, sock, shoe and pant leg in icy cold water with incredible gusts of wind driving sand into every crack and crevice of our bodies and bags. Crossing pass on lake bed to Kagbeni comprised of two hours of constant wind. Wind strong enough to knock you over and almost does on several occasions. Wind sends plumes of sand and dust high into the valley. Arrive in Kagbeni cold, dry and windblown at 5:00PM. Secure a double room at Shangrila guest house for 100 rupees ($1.25). Have a great dinner and get to practice our Spanish with four trekkers from Spain and one Swiss girl that speaks Spanish.




Day 9: (02.04.09) The Jomsom Trek – Kagbeni to Jharkot
AM: Clear and sunny PM: Cold, dry and breezy 990m ascent Hiked: 8km Alt: 3550m

Share breakfast with new friends from Spain, then bid farewell. Owner of guest house gives Idalis, Marian and myself katas (silk cloth) to wish us a safe and happy journey. Begin trek at 9:43AM. Begin on wrong route, but works out as we get to see small town, which is incredible, and view the Mustang region from the border. Get on right trek and begin long, steep ascent with hundreds of Hindu pilgrims headed to Muktinath for celebration of god, Ram. Pass many groups of elderly pilgrims who make at least one pilgrimage to the holy city of Muktinath in their lifetime. Much of trail is along road that is busy from Jeeps transporting pilgrims and kicking up dust. Wind picks up at our backs at 11:30AM. Ascend almost 1km to small village of Jharkot where we are too tired to press on. Enjoy small lunch and check into room. Enjoy views of Annapurna range and see Thorung La Pass for first time, which lies at 5416m. Idalis not feeling well. Enjoy dinner with Marian and new friend Mike from Canada.




Day 10: (03.04.09) The Jomsom Trek – Jharkot to Muktinath to Tatopani
AM: Cold and clear PM: Mild and rainy 250m ascent / 2600m descent Hiked: 21km (41km by Jeep) Alt: 1200m


Today is our five year anniversary. Wake up at 6:00AM and skip breakfast. Say goodbye to Marian who plans to stay on. Begin trek at 7:00AM. Hike one hour up to holy city of Muktinath and into Muktinath temple complex. Stop by Buddhist gompa on the way. Surrounded by hundreds of worshiping pilgrims in temple complex. Meander around grounds witnessing teachings, prayers, possessions and offerings. Mark spot where natural spring waters, natural gas flames and earth all converge. Run into Marion who has also climbed to temple complex. Climb to Buddhist stupa, tie one kata to flag post, circumambulate stupa and give thanks for our great fortune. Begin hike down to catch Jeep at 11:00AM. Hundreds of pilgrims waiting for Jeeps. Try to buy ticket and told we would be on tenth Jeep, perhaps several hours. Decide to begin walking instead. Hail Jeep a couple kilometers out of Muktinath and must sit on roof due to overcrowding. Enjoy ride greatly and laugh the whole way down. Arrive in Jomsom one and a half hours later covered in dirt and dust but happy to have not walked. Attempt to procure ticket for Jeep again from Jeep stand. Once again told of several hour wait. Decide to test luck again and begin walking. Hail Jeep a few kilometers out of Jomsom and again sit on roof. Views are amazing and ride is totally enjoyable and memorable. Arrive in Ghasa two hours later. Once again, attempt to procure Jeep ticket. No sign of Jeeps. Decide to test luck one last time and begin walking towards final destination of Tatopani, home of hot springs and desired resting spot. No luck this time as Jeeps never pass and few taxis that do are full. Hike approximately three hours and 13km to town of Tatopani. Check in once again at the Dhaulagiri guest house and are soaking in hot springs, with exhausted bodies, by 6:30PM. Again take dinner in room and enjoy cocktails of Sprite and apple brandy.




Day 11: (04.04.09) The Jomsom Trek – Tatopani to Pokhara
AM: Cloudy and mild PM: Warm and rainy 380m descent Hiked: 0 Alt: 820m

Wake up late. No hurry to leave. Return to hot springs for second round of soaking as Idalis reads in guest house garden. Return from hot springs to pack and have breakfast. Check out of guest house and walk to bus stand. Still many pilgrims returning from Muktinath. Secure spot on mini bus but must stand. Make friends with Nepalese riders and answer questions and laugh as young Nepalese girl falls into my lap. Arrive in town of Beni and must switch buses. Get ripped off by mini bus conductor who says tourists pay higher price on public bus. All riders come to our defense. We pay only 60 extra rupees in end. Switch to large bus headed to Pokhara. Get actual seats this time. Ride is slow, bumpy and long, but enjoyable. Arrive in Pokhara. Say goodbye to all of our new Nepalese friends. Secure a taxi into town. Arrive back at starting place, Lubbly Jubbly guest house. Secure a room. Without showering, go out for wonderful dinner of steak, pork and a cold beer. Trek is over and another incredible experience has been added to our memory banks.

NAMASTE, NEPAL!

Sunday, April 5, 2009 5:04 PM

Idalis:

Getting to Nepal






Getting into Nepal was no easy task! Our adventure started in Varanasi, and included the exhaustive following, which took close to 24 hours:
- Very late, overnight train to Gorakpur, India
- Hot, stuffy, crowded bus from Gorakpur to Sunauli, at the Indian border
- Check post to apply for Nepali visa, payable only in US dollars. Money changer with bad exchange rate conveniently located across the street.
- One kilometer walk across border to Immigration Office in Belahiya, Nepal. Kissed the ground! More paperwork to fill out.
- Four kilometer mini bus ride to Bhairawa, where we get off prematurely because slimy rickshaw drivers say we must (evil!). Get back on crowded mini bus and continue our journey standing up with heavy packs on.
- Two hour bus ride from chaotic Bhairawa bus stand to Lumbini, our official first stop. Bus looks like a reject from India that has been gutted out. When people prefer to sit on top of the bus than actually inside it, you know it must be bad!
- Arrival in Lumbini, Nepal (finally!) hot, tired, and smelling like the raw sewage we passed along the way!

Lumbini







Not wanting to break with our recent Buddhist theme, Kevin and I spent a few pleasant days in Lumbini, the birthplace of the Buddha. We visited the Maya Devi Temple, the exact site of the birth of Gautama Siddhartha, according to Buddhist scholars. We walked around the vast grounds of the Lumbini Development Zone, where dozens of Buddhist nations from around the world have constructed elaborate and beautiful monasteries. Our favorites were the Zhong Hua Chinese Buddhist Monastery and the Great Drigung Kagyud Lotus Stupa, constructed by the German Tara Foundation. Kevin and I sat in the simple “Buddha Room” of the Korean monastery, where we reflected quietly on our good fortune and heard the melodic voice of a nun as she practiced her mantras. We walked to the top of the gleaming white World Peace Pagoda, and finally called it a day!

Pokhara







After a very bumpy, but otherwise scenic eight-hour bus ride, we arrived in Pokhara a few days later. Pokhara is a beautiful city on the serene Phewa Tal lake, and we enjoyed several peaceful days here. We spent our time making preparations for our upcoming Jomsom trek, having buffalo steaks and Everest beers in some of the many cafes, and buying fake North Face gear on sale everywhere in this town. A much-appreciated reprieve!

ODE TO INDIA (KIND OF)

It's been four months in India
Sometimes good, sometimes bad
With a range of emotions
From elated to sad

On your streets we've traversed
Full of cow poop and dust
In rickshaws and old trains
Buses aged with rust

Traveling was no picnic
And homesickness hit us hard
Missing hot showers, toilet paper
And my old Costco card

There were things that depressed us
Such as poverty and slums
Trash, urine, beggars
Your caste system and bums

Your touts were relentless
Pushing things I don't need
Blessings, drugs, wooden snakes
And mala prayer beads

Holy sadhus, dressed in orange
And smoking hashish
Always begging for alms
Yelling, “Baba, baksheesh!”

Yet despite all the challenges
We could not go away
The benefits were many
We decided to stay

Your landscape is varied
Such a range you can boast
From desert to backwaters
To sandy beach coast

Rajasthan's cities
Blue, gold, and pink
Majestic forts and palaces
Blend with camel fart stink

Also Goa and Hampi
Rishikesh, Bangalore,
Dharamsala, Varkala,
And still so much more

On your food we have feasted
Spicy meals we adore
Thalis, masalas, tikkas
Pickles and chutneys galore

Such a generous country
Although stretched thin and poor
Letting in all kinds of people
Never closing the door

Hindu, Muslim, and Buddhist
Christian, Jain, and Sikh
Over a billion together
In relative peace

Such wonderful qualities
That we missed at the start
Love for family, big smiles
And an open heart

Children playing cricket
Encouraging us to join
Practicing their English
Wanting a “country coin”

Women shone in bright saris
Or a salwar kameez
Next to them I looked drab
In my old beat up fleece

Your lines made us laugh:
First customer! Good luck for me!
I give you good price!
Come! Looking for free!

A lesson you've taught us
Above all the rest
Be happy with little
Want not more, but less

Namaste, dear India
Our palms in prayer, too
The light that's in us
Honors the light that's in you














































































by Idalis Alvarez
March 2009

Thank you, India!

A LOOOOOOOOOOONG GOOD-BYE

Wednesday, March 18, 2009 5:51 PM

Idalis:

Dharamsala






We enjoyed our last few days in Dharamsala and took advantage of the relative peace in the city, knowing in the back of our minds, that we would soon be going to the Belly of the Beast, Varanasi! I went with our friend, Nic, to a yoga class on the rooftop of her guest house. Swami, the friendly instructor, urged us to IIIIIIIINHAAAAAAAAAALE and EEEEEEXHAAAAAAAAALE often, probably to take our minds off of the loud firecrackers that were going off next door for a wedding. With good intentions, he tried to “clear our chakras,” but Nic and I had to stifle a laugh as he tried to blow into a conch shell in order to “receive energy” from his late guru. How I miss a good ol' sweaty yoga class!

We enjoyed a traditional Tibetan dinner (yummy momos included!) at one of our favorite restaurants, Khana Nirvana, and watched a documentary on the Tibetan Uprising of 2008. After learning about the atrocities the Chinese government has inflicted on the Tibetan population, Kevin and I are glad that our plans to visit China did not work out, opting to save that trip for when treatment has improved.

One of our highlights while in Dharamsala was a day hike Kevin and I did to the top of Triund, where after a 4-hour ascent, we were treated to beautiful views of the Himalayan range. How breathtaking! It was well worth all the huffing and puffing, and the sore knees the next day after our descent! It made us even more anxious for our next destination, Nepal, where we plan to do some trekking in the Annapurna Sanctuary.

The one sad part was saying goodbye to our dear friend, Nic, whom we've enjoyed meeting up with several times in India. Nic will stay in Dharamsala for several months, as she is taking classes on Buddhism and is doing volunteer work, teaching conversational English to Tibetan monks. But, we've promised to meet up again, next time in her home of Australia. Nic, we have enjoyed your company immensely and look forward to future long conversations, 'roo steaks, and the Outback scenery! We wish you the best and will see you soon!

Varanasi










Our 27-hour train ride to Varanasi was surprisingly pleasant. Although long (very long), Kevin and I had a semi-quiet berth, so we were able to sleep, read, look out the window at the sometimes crazy scenery (including jam-packed trains and defecating citizens), and start planning our trip into Nepal. The one bad thing was arriving in Varanasi at 1:30 AM but thankfully, we had arranged for the Hotel Alka staff to pick us up and take us to our guest house.

Varanasi was a mixed bag, which was actually better than we anticipated. Because of our late arrival, we spent most of the next day just resting and relaxing in our room and gratefully catching up on TV! We did manage to make it out in the afternoon, and meandered through winding, narrow alleys, avoided wandering cows, smelly poo, and shifty drug dealers selling Chinese opium to make it to the ghats.

Varanasi is one of the oldest living cities in the world, and definitely India's holiest. Thousands of Hindu pilgrims come every day to perform puja and bathe in the very polluted Ganges, believing that the waters wash away sins. Anyone who dies in Varanasi attains instant moksha or enlightenment, and many widows and the elderly come here to live out their final days, finding shelter in temples or living off of alms from begging. This holy city is also one of the dirtiest we saw in India, and Varanasi is rife with touts and scams. Thankfully, Kevin and I had “been around the block” in India before coming here, and had some prior experience dealing with the mayhem.

We woke up before sunrise the next morning to take a boat ride on the Ganges. As the sun was coming up, we saw hundreds of devotees praying, making offerings, and bathing in the holy waters. The burning ghats contained the bodies and ashes of the deceased being cremated close to the shore and here, Kevin and I witnessed a disturbing sight: stray dogs chewing on human bones and people defecating, while pilgrims bathed in the waters nearby. The Ganges is very polluted, containing high amounts of fecal matter, heavy metal chemicals, and decaying body parts. Needless to say, Kevin and I skipped a dip in the river. Despite the filth, the dawn boat ride was a moving experience. We watched people perform their ablutions, a group of young brahmin boys lighting candles, people doing yoga and meditation on the steps, a man singing holy mantras, and an ash-covered sadhu ringing bells. Whatever might be said about Varanasi, it's definitely not a place you forget quickly.

The next day was much mellower! We spent the day with Francois and Marie, a lovely French-Canadian and American couple we had met during our Buddhism course at Tushita. Together, we took a very bumpy rickshaw to the nearby peaceful city of Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon. We walked along the ruins of old stuppas, visited a great archaeological museum (air conditioned and only two rupees!), and chatted away over cold Limca sodas in the shade. That evening, we all went out to dinner together, where Kevin and I had our Last (Indian) Super and got tons of great tips from them for South East Asia. Dearest Francois and Marie: Thank you for the wonderful company. We wish you the best in your future travels and hope to see you again. Happy journeys!

Monday, March 23 @ 8:52

Kevin

The Exodus

For one last time we would catch an Indian train. It would be a first class, three tier sleeper headed to Gorakhpur, India, a city about three hours, by bus, from the border shared with Nepal. Our train was scheduled to arrive in Varanasi at 12:30PM to pick us up. It finally arrived at 1:45AM. We boarded to find that our ingenious strategy of choosing the end bunks was defeated, as in this particular coach, the end bunks were three tiered and not two tiered, as usual, leaving us very little head room. In addition, our bunks were not adjacent as ordered on line. Thankfully, a kind gentleman agreed to trade bunks so that we could be together. The additional bunk also seemed to mean additional baggage, which had filled up every available space before I could get my pack settled in. So, I ended up having to sleep with my pack on my bunk with me. Needless to say, we have become very close, my pack and I. We both managed to fall right to sleep and awoke at 8:00AM to the sound of the shuffling passengers preparing to disembark at our final location. One thing that was not different about this train ride was the touts awaiting the arrival of the unsuspecting tourist. Little did they know that our, now, four months of experience would see us breeze right pass them in search of our final Indian bus ride, which would take us from Gorakhpur to Sunauli, our point of exit from India.

Once again, India did her best to throw us another curve as a consolation for leaving her country. We boarded our bus and were disappointed to find that we were assigned the last two seats at the end of the bus and in the corner. Our disappointment continued as they steadily began to pack so many people onto this bus that there were body parts tucked and squeezed into every available air pocket. The ride started out slow, making several stops but eventually sped up to a furious pace dodging everything that attempted to enter the periphery of the road. The ride was hot, dusty and steamy. So much so, in fact, that a little old Nepalese lady sitting next to me began to faint. We immediately began to try and clear the area of all the bodies allowing for space to move her over to a window seat where she could get fresh air. I then proceeded to check her pulse and though weak, was happy to find that she was still alive. I asked one person to fan her face, and another to slowly start to introduce fluids (water) to her system. I poured some water on a rag and placed it on the top of her head in an attempt to cool her down. In all of this chaos, we managed to bring her back and she slowly seemed to return to normal. We also managed to make a friend, Michele from Italy, who also assisted in her revival and then joined us for the melee that would be the border crossing.

After finally arriving in Sunauli, it was another attempt to dodge the cycle rickshaw drivers that wanted far too much to take us a couple hundred meters to the border, most of which would have been spent sitting in traffic. We three made it to the small picnic table that served as the Indian customs counter. We filled out the necessary documents, changed our remaining Indian rupees for Nepalese rupees and for eighty US dollars that we would have to pay on the Nepal side for our visas. They don't accept rupees, go figure. As one might imagine, our exchange fees were miserable as there was only one “official government” money changer, who happened to be sitting in a phone booth. Nonetheless, we were happy to pay to finish this process and get over the border. We grabbed a bottle of water, a few oranges and a bag of masala chips and headed across the border to a whole new world, or so we thought!

BUDDHISM BOOT CAMP

Tuesday, March 11, 2009 @ 15:08

What it took to get here – longest travel day ever!



Kevin:

It has been quite some time since you heard from us last. We hope that you all got our notice at the end of the last post. Either way, the last couple of weeks have been quite eventful, to say the least. We normally don't do this, but I had to clue you guys in on what we went through to get from Rishikesh, our last stop, to Dharamsala, this stop. So without further ado, here it goes...

Saturday, February 28th:
15:00: Say goodbye to Nic, leave hotel in Rishikesh (Laxmanjhula) and walk across footbridge and up steps to main road
15:30: Catch a vikram (shared auto rickshaw) from main road to Rishikesh railway station. Share vikram with Indian family of eight. Give young boy in group an American dime (Thanks Katie!) and the whole family is fascinated.
16:20: Catch a train from Rishikesh railway station to Chakki Bank railway station (approx. 10 hours). Sit in side upper and side lower as waves of riders occupy six bunks in adjacent berth. Includes, first a group of nine men crowded into lower benches, eight playing cards and one staring at Idalis. Next, enter an Indian dwarf who appears to be intoxicated and proceeds to light and smoke a joint while singing and laughing to himself. Next, enter an Indian family with two young women, two screaming children and what appear to be grandparents, all staring as we eat our dinner provided by IRCTC. Last, enter two single men, two young women, two children and one middle aged gentleman. All talk and laugh until the wee hours of the morning. Train ride is cold and we have no blankets.
Sunday, March 1st:
2:15: Get off train in Chakki Bank early in the morning and catch vikram to Pathenkot bus station. Share vikram with Indian family of five from Punjab, a Frenchman, Jean-Mart, and a young girl from Germany, Eva, who will join us at Tushita. Catch crossing train at tracks and must wait ten minutes. Then, get in accident with adjacent auto rickshaw once cross gate opens.
6:10: Catch state bus from Pathenkot to Dharamsala. Bus mostly empty, but Indian man decides to sit on small bench right next to Idalis and I and proceeds to spread legs and shoulders. Half way through trip, as sun rises, get first glimpse of snow covered Himalayan mountains. After fascination wanes, start to worry about being cold.
6:50: Switch buses at Dharamsala station for Mcleod Ganj. Small bus, super crowded and driver insists I put bags on roof.
7:15: Get off bus at Mcleod Ganj, say goodbye to Jean-Mart and Eva and catch rickshaw to Dharamkot where our hotel is.
7:25: Walk remaining distance to hotel. Check in, drop off bags and head out in search of food for breakfast. Nothing is open, we appear to be the only tourist. While walking on mountain pass, an Indian man, Raju, calls out from house asking if we need a room. We say, no, we need food. He invites us up, makes us chai and parathas and does not charge us. We say thank you, look at some pictures and return to hotel.
8:40: Arrive at hotel and take nap. Air is cold, room is colder and wake up freezing. Ask hotel for two extra blankets, take hot showers in cold room and walk to Mcleod Ganj for dinner and go to bed with all of our clothes on and two blankets. And, so, ends the longest travel day ever!!!!

Tuesday, March 11, 2009 @ 1:52 PM

“Visualize the Buddha pouring nectar over your head.” - Venerable Jampa Dekyi






Idalis:

Our time at the Tushita Meditation Center was amazing. The nine-day silent retreat was just what Kevin and I needed after the mental and physical strain that can be India! It's situated in Dharamkot, a beautiful mountainous and wooded suburb of Dharamsala, where the Dalai Lama lives and where the Tibetan Government in Exile is. We saw Tushita as a wonderful opportunity to learn about Buddhism, a religion/philosophy/psychology/way of life that we were both curious about and had many questions about.

It was a silent retreat, and one that had Kevin and I separated, since because of its semi-monastic environment, has men and women staying in different quarters. We agreed to follow five precepts:
1.No killing (not even a mosquito)
2.No stealing
3.No sexual activity (sorry, Amor)
4.No lying
5.No intoxicants

We also had to dress appropriately, turn in all electronics (ipod, cameras, etc), and promise to read only Dharma (Buddhist) literature. No problem! The gong sounded every (cold!) morning at 6:00 am and our first meditation session started at 6:45 AM. Every day included teachings on Buddhist religion and philosophy as well as meditation. I loved our class discussions, deep and thoughtful, and our teachers (incredible Buddhist nuns) were extremely knowledgeable and patient, epitomizing the balance between wisdom and compassion that Buddhism says is necessary. We were each given karma yoga jobs. Mine was to teach the daily yoga class, which I loved, and Kevin cleaned toilets! We could talk to each other during our class times and discussion groups, but were asked to keep silence the rest of the time, giving us the space to relax and reflect. I tried my best, but because I taught yoga, I invariably had to answer questions after every class about poses for back aches, moon salutations, or energy chakras. I tried my best :)

Tibetan Buddhism (in a tiny nutshell) teaches that we are all the same, sentient beings looking for happiness. Our suffering in life comes from depending on things like relationships, possessions, and adventures to make us happy. But since nothing lasts, we are never truly happy. Learning to let go of our attachments and feelings and meditating on the “true nature of reality,” and developing compassion for others will help us reach enlightenment. True happiness is not a state of elation, but the peace of mind that comes from helping others without selfish motivation. This process is not completed in one lifetime, but over countless rebirths, which are affected by our karma. Something like that.

I was surprised to find out, though, that Tibetan Buddhism also has many rituals and doctrinesthat made very little sense to me. Although there is no “God” in the traditional sense, chanting mantras, prostrating before idols, circumambulating around stuppas, and giving offerings to the Buddha are all ways to “purify” our accumulated negative karma and achieve “higher rebirths” in the future. This is where it started to go downhill for us! Needless to say, we will not be “taking refuge,” shaving our heads, living in a cave, or becoming Buddhists. But, there were a million-and-one wonderful things we've learned that we will take with us. The benefits of a daily meditation practice, showing greater compassion to others, and acting instead of reacting to situations are things we can start doing today. Developing an altruistic life will bring the most lasting happiness. As the mantra states, "May all beings everywhere be happy and free of suffering!"

The Middle Way





March 10th is a very important day for Tibetans, especially this year. It marked the 50 year anniversary of the Tibetan Uprising against the Chinese government. It was also the day we left the Tushita Meditation Center. That night, we joined our friends and hundreds of Tibetans and tourists alike in a candle-lighting ceremony and peaceful march, which ended at the main temple. We listened to supporters from around the world, including Chinese dissidents, speak about the situation in Tibet and how a peaceful "middle way" resolution was necessary. We all held our candles and Tibetans sang the national anthem, something they have not been able to do in their own homeland for many years. It was a moving experience, one that Kevin and I were proud to be a part of.

Wednesday, March 12th @ 9:47

“The meaning of life is to be happy and useful.” - His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama of Tibet




Kevin:

We woke up in a panic. It was 6:19 and the alarm did not go off at 5:30 like it was supposed to. I jumped out of bed and ran all disheveled down to the point where we were supposed to meet Nic at 6:15. I apologized profusely and told her to go ahead and we would catch up. I ran back to the guest house and Idalis and I threw ourselves together in about fifteen minutes and headed out the door. On the way, we stopped by the side of the road where this incredibly jovial Tibetan man was selling fresh baked bread. We grabbed a couple of things and kept running. We made it to the main temple at about 6:50. We were surprised to see that there was no queue and we were able to walk right in. We entered the main courtyard and put down our mat and blanket and made ourselves comfortable.

In spite of all the rumors and assumptions that had been swirling for days, it seemed as if everything was going to go exactly as planned. We were about to be witness to a truly amazing event, a teaching by His Holiness, the 14th Dalai Lama. There were monks and nuns running around to prepare the area and get the throne ready to receive His Holiness. There were members of the press setting up their equipment. There were school children marching in in single file lines. There were Tibetans of all age and size scrambling to secure a good place to squat or sit. And, of course, there were all the Westerners, like us, excited and privileged to be part of something so amazing.

As the minutes rolled by, the courtyard became more and more full and many of the other students from the Intro to Buddhism course at Tushita began to file in and fill up the area around us. The excitement was energetic and the anticipation intense. All of the sudden, the sound of horns and trumpets began to fill the air. A large procession began to make its way down the stairs from the main Gompa (meditation hall). There were monks dressed in elaborately decorated capes and robes. There was a large and colorful parasol being escorted by a rather large monk. There were Tibetan security guards dressed in sharp suits and dark shades. There were important members of the Sangha and Royal Assembly and there was, of course, The Dalai Lama himself, greeting the audience with the most amazing and warm hearted smile. As soon as he entered the stage and made his way towards the throne from which he would deliver his teaching, an incredible wave of peace and compassion swept over the crowd, causing the hair on our arms to stand on end and putting a lump in our throats. Here within a mere eighty feet from us was a Nobel Peace Prize recipient, accomplished author and lecturer, spokesman for world peace, defender of human rights and leader of the Tibetan people who are living in exile as a result of the tyranny of the Chinese Communist regime.

We donned our earphones, attached to our $3 AM/FM radio, and tuned into the English translation channel. Prior to the commencement of His Holiness' teachings, we were treated to an incredible display of Tibetan Buddhist rituals, which included deep bellowing chants, by massive monks, that would vibrate the bones inside of your body. At the conclusion of the opening ceremony, the Dalia Lama began to speak in his beautifully melodic, incredibly soulful and smooth wisdom infused voice. The word on the street was that the teachings would encompass a lecture on the past lives of the Buddha. However, to our surprise and amazement, it rather followed an outline that discussed the Tibetan Buddhist philosophies of the four noble truths, emptiness, dependent arising and ignorance of the true nature of reality. It was exactly the curriculum we had just finished studying for nine days. We were ecstatic to realize that we actually understood what His Holiness was talking about and recognized all the terminology. We were even treated to a parable which required the Dalai Lama to say the word “shit” (see below). It was a truly amazing experience that we will not soon forget.

At the conclusion of the teachings, the Dalai Lama was once again escorted by the massive procession. However, this time, he would exit the opposite way that he entered, towards his residence, which would bring him within fifteen feet of us. Along the way he would impart some wisdom on the inquiring press, shake hands and bless elders from the Tibetan population and pat school children on the head. Unlike the calm, orderly and respectful demeanor of the Tibetan side of the courtyard, the Westerners would all scramble to their feet and lunge for a chance to touch or see the Dalai Lama up close. Idalis and I were content to just sit on our mat, crossed legged in awe and admiration of such an amazing being.

The Parable: One man walks up to another man who is sitting in silent meditation. The one man says to the other man, “What are you meditating on?” The man in meditation replies, “I am meditating on compassion.” The other man then replies, “You are just eating shit.” Where then the meditating man stands up and yells, “No, you eat shit!”

The Lesson: It is not just enough to meditate on compassion, you must also practice it in your daily life. The Dalai Lama also explained that there is no need, as a Westerner, to rush to convert to Buddhism. In his opinion, you are much better off if you practice the religion that your parents practiced (that you were raised with) rather than trying to begin on a whole new path that you may not fully understand. He also highlighted that all religions of the world teach the same lessons, and that regardless of your chosen path, we are all sentient beings that are searching for happiness and peace of mind and it is our duty to treat each other with equanimity and compassion.