Tuesday, March 11, 2009 @ 15:08
What it took to get here – longest travel day ever!
Kevin:
It has been quite some time since you heard from us last. We hope that you all got our notice at the end of the last post. Either way, the last couple of weeks have been quite eventful, to say the least. We normally don't do this, but I had to clue you guys in on what we went through to get from Rishikesh, our last stop, to Dharamsala, this stop. So without further ado, here it goes...
Saturday, February 28th:15:00: Say goodbye to Nic, leave hotel in Rishikesh (Laxmanjhula) and walk across footbridge and up steps to main road
15:30: Catch a vikram (shared auto rickshaw) from main road to Rishikesh railway station. Share vikram with Indian family of eight. Give young boy in group an American dime (Thanks Katie!) and the whole family is fascinated.
16:20: Catch a train from Rishikesh railway station to Chakki Bank railway station (approx. 10 hours). Sit in side upper and side lower as waves of riders occupy six bunks in adjacent berth. Includes, first a group of nine men crowded into lower benches, eight playing cards and one staring at Idalis. Next, enter an Indian dwarf who appears to be intoxicated and proceeds to light and smoke a joint while singing and laughing to himself. Next, enter an Indian family with two young women, two screaming children and what appear to be grandparents, all staring as we eat our dinner provided by IRCTC. Last, enter two single men, two young women, two children and one middle aged gentleman. All talk and laugh until the wee hours of the morning. Train ride is cold and we have no blankets.
Sunday, March 1st:2:15: Get off train in Chakki Bank early in the morning and catch vikram to Pathenkot bus station. Share vikram with Indian family of five from Punjab, a Frenchman, Jean-Mart, and a young girl from Germany, Eva, who will join us at Tushita. Catch crossing train at tracks and must wait ten minutes. Then, get in accident with adjacent auto rickshaw once cross gate opens.
6:10: Catch state bus from Pathenkot to Dharamsala. Bus mostly empty, but Indian man decides to sit on small bench right next to Idalis and I and proceeds to spread legs and shoulders. Half way through trip, as sun rises, get first glimpse of snow covered Himalayan mountains. After fascination wanes, start to worry about being cold.
6:50: Switch buses at Dharamsala station for Mcleod Ganj. Small bus, super crowded and driver insists I put bags on roof.
7:15: Get off bus at Mcleod Ganj, say goodbye to Jean-Mart and Eva and catch rickshaw to Dharamkot where our hotel is.
7:25: Walk remaining distance to hotel. Check in, drop off bags and head out in search of food for breakfast. Nothing is open, we appear to be the only tourist. While walking on mountain pass, an Indian man, Raju, calls out from house asking if we need a room. We say, no, we need food. He invites us up, makes us chai and parathas and does not charge us. We say thank you, look at some pictures and return to hotel.
8:40: Arrive at hotel and take nap. Air is cold, room is colder and wake up freezing. Ask hotel for two extra blankets, take hot showers in cold room and walk to Mcleod Ganj for dinner and go to bed with all of our clothes on and two blankets. And, so, ends the longest travel day ever!!!!
Tuesday, March 11, 2009 @ 1:52 PM
“Visualize the Buddha pouring nectar over your head.” - Venerable Jampa Dekyi
Idalis:
Our time at the Tushita Meditation Center was amazing. The nine-day silent retreat was just what Kevin and I needed after the mental and physical strain that can be India! It's situated in Dharamkot, a beautiful mountainous and wooded suburb of Dharamsala, where the Dalai Lama lives and where the Tibetan Government in Exile is. We saw Tushita as a wonderful opportunity to learn about Buddhism, a religion/philosophy/psychology/way of life that we were both curious about and had many questions about.
It was a silent retreat, and one that had Kevin and I separated, since because of its semi-monastic environment, has men and women staying in different quarters. We agreed to follow five precepts:
1.No killing (not even a mosquito)
2.No stealing
3.No sexual activity (sorry, Amor)
4.No lying
5.No intoxicants
We also had to dress appropriately, turn in all electronics (ipod, cameras, etc), and promise to read only Dharma (Buddhist) literature. No problem! The gong sounded every (cold!) morning at 6:00 am and our first meditation session started at 6:45 AM. Every day included teachings on Buddhist religion and philosophy as well as meditation. I loved our class discussions, deep and thoughtful, and our teachers (incredible Buddhist nuns) were extremely knowledgeable and patient, epitomizing the balance between wisdom and compassion that Buddhism says is necessary. We were each given karma yoga jobs. Mine was to teach the daily yoga class, which I loved, and Kevin cleaned toilets! We could talk to each other during our class times and discussion groups, but were asked to keep silence the rest of the time, giving us the space to relax and reflect. I tried my best, but because I taught yoga, I invariably had to answer questions after every class about poses for back aches, moon salutations, or energy chakras. I tried my best :)
Tibetan Buddhism (in a tiny nutshell) teaches that we are all the same, sentient beings looking for happiness. Our suffering in life comes from depending on things like relationships, possessions, and adventures to make us happy. But since nothing lasts, we are never truly happy. Learning to let go of our attachments and feelings and meditating on the “true nature of reality,” and developing compassion for others will help us reach enlightenment. True happiness is not a state of elation, but the peace of mind that comes from helping others without selfish motivation. This process is not completed in one lifetime, but over countless rebirths, which are affected by our karma. Something like that.
I was surprised to find out, though, that Tibetan Buddhism also has many rituals and doctrinesthat made very little sense to me. Although there is no “God” in the traditional sense, chanting mantras, prostrating before idols, circumambulating around
stuppas, and giving offerings to the Buddha are all ways to “purify” our accumulated negative karma and achieve “higher rebirths” in the future. This is where it started to go downhill for us! Needless to say, we will not be “taking refuge,” shaving our heads, living in a cave, or becoming Buddhists. But, there were a million-and-one wonderful things we've learned that we will take with us. The benefits of a daily meditation practice, showing greater compassion to others, and acting instead of reacting to situations are things we can start doing today. Developing an altruistic life will bring the most lasting happiness. As the mantra states, "May all beings everywhere be happy and free of suffering!"
The Middle Way
March 10th is a very important day for Tibetans, especially this year. It marked the 50 year anniversary of the Tibetan Uprising against the Chinese government. It was also the day we left the Tushita Meditation Center. That night, we joined our friends and hundreds of Tibetans and tourists alike in a candle-lighting ceremony and peaceful march, which ended at the main temple. We listened to supporters from around the world, including Chinese dissidents, speak about the situation in Tibet and how a peaceful "middle way" resolution was necessary. We all held our candles and Tibetans sang the national anthem, something they have not been able to do in their own homeland for many years. It was a moving experience, one that Kevin and I were proud to be a part of.
Wednesday, March 12th @ 9:47
“The meaning of life is to be happy and useful.” - His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama of Tibet
Kevin:
We woke up in a panic. It was 6:19 and the alarm did not go off at 5:30 like it was supposed to. I jumped out of bed and ran all disheveled down to the point where we were supposed to meet Nic at 6:15. I apologized profusely and told her to go ahead and we would catch up. I ran back to the guest house and Idalis and I threw ourselves together in about fifteen minutes and headed out the door. On the way, we stopped by the side of the road where this incredibly jovial Tibetan man was selling fresh baked bread. We grabbed a couple of things and kept running. We made it to the main temple at about 6:50. We were surprised to see that there was no queue and we were able to walk right in. We entered the main courtyard and put down our mat and blanket and made ourselves comfortable.
In spite of all the rumors and assumptions that had been swirling for days, it seemed as if everything was going to go exactly as planned. We were about to be witness to a truly amazing event, a teaching by His Holiness, the 14th Dalai Lama. There were monks and nuns running around to prepare the area and get the throne ready to receive His Holiness. There were members of the press setting up their equipment. There were school children marching in in single file lines. There were Tibetans of all age and size scrambling to secure a good place to squat or sit. And, of course, there were all the Westerners, like us, excited and privileged to be part of something so amazing.
As the minutes rolled by, the courtyard became more and more full and many of the other students from the Intro to Buddhism course at Tushita began to file in and fill up the area around us. The excitement was energetic and the anticipation intense. All of the sudden, the sound of horns and trumpets began to fill the air. A large procession began to make its way down the stairs from the main Gompa (meditation hall). There were monks dressed in elaborately decorated capes and robes. There was a large and colorful parasol being escorted by a rather large monk. There were Tibetan security guards dressed in sharp suits and dark shades. There were important members of the Sangha and Royal Assembly and there was, of course, The Dalai Lama himself, greeting the audience with the most amazing and warm hearted smile. As soon as he entered the stage and made his way towards the throne from which he would deliver his teaching, an incredible wave of peace and compassion swept over the crowd, causing the hair on our arms to stand on end and putting a lump in our throats. Here within a mere eighty feet from us was a Nobel Peace Prize recipient, accomplished author and lecturer, spokesman for world peace, defender of human rights and leader of the Tibetan people who are living in exile as a result of the tyranny of the Chinese Communist regime.
We donned our earphones, attached to our $3 AM/FM radio, and tuned into the English translation channel. Prior to the commencement of His Holiness' teachings, we were treated to an incredible display of Tibetan Buddhist rituals, which included deep bellowing chants, by massive monks, that would vibrate the bones inside of your body. At the conclusion of the opening ceremony, the Dalia Lama began to speak in his beautifully melodic, incredibly soulful and smooth wisdom infused voice. The word on the street was that the teachings would encompass a lecture on the past lives of the Buddha. However, to our surprise and amazement, it rather followed an outline that discussed the Tibetan Buddhist philosophies of the four noble truths, emptiness, dependent arising and ignorance of the true nature of reality. It was exactly the curriculum we had just finished studying for nine days. We were ecstatic to realize that we actually understood what His Holiness was talking about and recognized all the terminology. We were even treated to a parable which required the Dalai Lama to say the word “shit” (see below). It was a truly amazing experience that we will not soon forget.
At the conclusion of the teachings, the Dalai Lama was once again escorted by the massive procession. However, this time, he would exit the opposite way that he entered, towards his residence, which would bring him within fifteen feet of us. Along the way he would impart some wisdom on the inquiring press, shake hands and bless elders from the Tibetan population and pat school children on the head. Unlike the calm, orderly and respectful demeanor of the Tibetan side of the courtyard, the Westerners would all scramble to their feet and lunge for a chance to touch or see the Dalai Lama up close. Idalis and I were content to just sit on our mat, crossed legged in awe and admiration of such an amazing being.
The Parable: One man walks up to another man who is sitting in silent meditation. The one man says to the other man, “What are you meditating on?” The man in meditation replies, “I am meditating on compassion.” The other man then replies, “You are just eating shit.” Where then the meditating man stands up and yells, “No, you eat shit!”
The Lesson: It is not just enough to meditate on compassion, you must also practice it in your daily life. The Dalai Lama also explained that there is no need, as a Westerner, to rush to convert to Buddhism. In his opinion, you are much better off if you practice the religion that your parents practiced (that you were raised with) rather than trying to begin on a whole new path that you may not fully understand. He also highlighted that all religions of the world teach the same lessons, and that regardless of your chosen path, we are all sentient beings that are searching for happiness and peace of mind and it is our duty to treat each other with equanimity and compassion.
