June 8th @ 20:14
Kevin
When I think Vietnam, all I was able to conjure up was images from movies I have seen, mostly movies made by Westerners and concerning the theme of warfare. Upon arrival, I realized that all of my conjured images were completely wrong. Immediately, I couldn't even grasp the fact that we were actually here. Never in my life did I picture, or even imagine, myself visiting Vietnam.
Once again, we have arrived in a location within Southeast Asia that has been absolutely pummeled by war and civil unrest. Unfortunately, we were also to learn that most of the damage was at the hands of the Americans. Though land mines and live munitions still lie in wait throughout parts of Vietnam, and amputees are abundant and ever present, it appears as if the bulk of the lasting damage comes in the form of the lingering affects of “agent orange”. It is a legacy that leaves its victims debilitated, mutilated and deformed. However, not only are the Vietnamese struggling with these horrors, but so are many of the children of American soldiers back in the states. The use of chemical weapons was a violation of the war sanctions, but so were many other of the tactics used by American forces, including secret bombings and torture. A visit to the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) was a way for us to understand the horrors of war from the perspective of the Vietnamese, who coincidentally refer to the Vietnam War as the American War.
Throughout our travels, Idalis and I have become privy to some of the horrors of war. We have learned a great deal about history, more than was ever afforded in a classroom and have also come to the realization that there are no winners in war, only victims. In little more than thirty years, the Vietnamese have accomplished the impossible. They have regrouped, restructured and rebuilt an entire empire of prosperity. Though technically Communist, Vietnam and its citizens are incredible resourceful, entrepreneurial and as capitalist as their Western counterparts. Meaning that with time, America may have realized that the Communist machine it was most concerned with would eventually share many of the same interests and ideas about a free market world and a war that destroyed so many lives may not have been necessary at all. In spite of all of it, the Vietnamese people that we have spoken to say that the past is best left in the past and that their religion, Buddhism, teaches them to forgive, which they seem to have done. However, they also say that they will never forget.
Before traveling here, we were very concerned with how we would be received. As it turns out, there appears to be no hard feelings toward American travelers. In fact, it seems as if the Vietnamese are also happy to put this all behind them and stay purely focused on the future and becoming a force in the global community, not to mention being incredibly gracious, patient and welcoming hosts. Our first stop was the capital city of Ho Chi Minh, known also as Saigon. We arrived overland by bus and immediately found (rather it found us) a cute little guest house in the middle of a thriving city and tourist area. We had only given ourselves a couple days here as we have only a thirty day visa and many places we hope to visit. Nonetheless, our visit to the capital was a fine introduction to our new destination and amongst other things, we visited a Catholic cathedral, known as Notre Dame, the War Remnants Museum, stumbled upon an amazing market in the heart of the city and once again treated ourselves to heaps of food in street and market stalls that we could not only not identify, but could also not pronounce. As with any country we visit, we make serious attempts to learn the basic salutations, inquiries and greetings in the local language. Thus far, our favorite one in Vietnam is “bia hoi”, which means draft beer and which runs anywhere from 3000 to 11000 dong, or 15 to 60 cents per liter. If that is not a capitalist dream, then I am not sure what is.
Our immediate plans for Vietnam changed several times, and continue to change. Amongst the myriad of things we have learned on this trip, we agree that thirty days is just not enough to visit a country and fail to realize how we could ever have been satisfied by two week vacations in our previous lives. Anyways, we decided, rather at the last minute, that we would carry on to a small beach town, Vietnam has over 4000 kilometers of coast line, called Mui Ne. A decision that would have us giddy from the time we arrived and stumbled upon our pristine, immaculate and oh so cute accommodations at the Hiep Hoa Resort. With only fifteen units, this amazing little guest house has been our respite for the last few days. We are finding it hard to tear ourselves away from the perfectly manicured garden, the shady coconut trees, the empty stretch of beautiful beach and the crisp refreshing waters of the South China Sea. Within one hour of arriving, I had already secured a rental surf board and was in the water enjoying the occasional waist high wave. On another occasion we rented a motorbike and spent the day skirting along the coast, visiting a local fish sauce plant, the red sand dunes, the white sand dunes and a gorge cut into the red sandstone by storm water, known as a ferry stream, that winded its way from a country field all the way down to the beach. Life in this once little fishing village turned small and manageable resort town is quaint, quiet and peaceful. Late breakfasts, lounging afternoons and incredible beach side dinners of fresh sea food fit the bill perfectly and help to ease the pain of what had once again been a long stretch of intense travel covering mind boggling distances and several countries.
As soon as we can find the heart to tear ourselves away, we will head further north to the food and culture capitals of Hoi An and Hue, where we hope to be treated to visits to the famous Kinh Tanh (citadel), the Royal Tombs, amazing shopping and of course, more bia hoi!
Thursday, June 11, 2009
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7 comments:
The beach looks beautiful! I'm sure that polka dotted bikini has seen so far a dozen beautiful beaches on your trip and will continue to see a dozen more. I loved the picture of the traffic in Saigon. How many people get hurt from the traffic on a daily basis I wonder. I would definitly not attempt to drive anything in that city. I am happy to hear the Vietnamese people have put the past in the past and that they are welcoming to American tourist. Toast a glass of cold Vietnamese beer on me!
Yo yo yo, from the three-o-fo(ur)! I mean 305! LOL
I have been meaning to post for so long now, and feel like an a$$ for neglecting you two, but we have been keeping up on our travels and continue to be amazed. YOu have done and seen so much! Its insane!
Everyone misses you back here. You are spoken of often and fondly.
Yes, I am still involved with SF. I have been doing what I can, when I can. Doing an event on Saturday with Karen, Laas, and Lauren for Shape magazine. They donated 20k to national, so we are having a table at one of their premiere events.
Life is great here, but the waves are flat. Which is a blessing, since it keeps me from skipping out on work. :-P
KEEP WRITING, EXPLORING, and loving life and each other. We miss you two and look forward to crossing paths again.
Cheers,
Big Daddy Shane
Amazing that you can get such a different view of Vietnam. It's gotta be a hell of a wild place.
Also, we're keeping a tour diary that fellow blog readers can enjoy. Check it out at calahoney.blogspot.com
Holla
Josue
Spicey, The beaches seem to get more beautiful with each one we visit and Idalis' polka dot bikini more worn out! However, we still feel like our own beach at home gives each of them a run for their money. Saigon traffic is ridiculous. Were you able to see the video? We actually saw nobody get hurt. There is an amazing amount of order to the chaos. When crossing the street, the strategy is just to keep walking at a steady pace in a straight line and all the motorbikes just manage to go around you. The Vietnamese are incredibly forgiving, especially considering their violent history was only 35 years ago. They have been great to us and we have made many friends! We have had and will continue to have many Vietnamese beers for you and everyone else for that matter!
Shane, again, so great to her from you. How are Amber and the baby doing? Are you getting more accustomed to being Poppa Shane? And never worry about posting regularly, it is always great to hear from you, no matter how much time passes. We continue to feel lucky and blessed to be in the position that we are in. We love our travels and have seen and done so much! We sometimes just sit around laughing as we recount our adventures. We are very much looking forward to spending more time with you guys and catching up on some lost time and continuing what we believe will be a strong and lasting friendship! Stay well, give our best to everyone and keep in touch!
Josue, Great news! We will save your blog to favorites. We really enjoyed reading the blog when you were recording the album. This one should be even better as it will chronicle your stride into super stardom! I think your tour kicks off soon, at Tobacco Road. Again, though we cannot be with you in form, we are in spirit. We wish you guys the very best and hope you become super famous and rich. That way, you can travel to Vietnam because we both think you guys would absolutely love it here! The food is amazing, there is actually surf and great beaches, lots of artisans and craftsmen and best of all, they speak French! Break a leg, not really, but you know what I mean!
The cruelty of war always scares me but the will of a family or a country to carry on amazes me. I felt that in Cambodia which I think has a horrifying story under Kmer Rouge. So people say that was a long time ago and people grown smarter, then Rwanda dublicates its history. It´s hard to understand, and it will proberly never end. The selfish leaders are to blame, naturally the common people don´t want war.
Sometimes I think it should be a rule of war that you have to see somebody up close and get to know him before you can shoot him.
There has never been a good war or a bad peace I think that one of your founding fathers said long ago - he should have wrote it in the constitution as well :-)
Mr White, you are so right!
Hi world travelers
Sorry I haven't written in forever. It has been crazy with work and Surfrider lately. Please know I am always keeping up with the blog and thinking of you guys. It seems like forever now that you have been traveling the world. How will you ever adjust to reality. I just want to thank you guys for your amazing posts. Now I have a huge list of places to visit. I hope to see you somewhere soon. Delta now officially flies pretty much everywhere including Vietnam but unfortunately can't make it out there yet. Will definitely meet up as you guys get closer to this side of the world. Hopefully in Australia or Hawaii or Japan. Keep up the posts and stay safe as always. All the best. Karen.
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