LAND OF MINES

Wednesday, May 26th @3:01AM

Kevin

Our Lao driver pulled over the minivan, threw our bags down from the roof and left the five of us at the border before driving away. We proceeded through customs and border control and processed our exit paperwork. It was then about a hundred yard walk to the Cambodian side. Once there, we got our passports stamped, made a quit run to the loo and were hurried into one of two minivans that waited on the side of the road. Our group of five was broken up as Idalis and I headed to one and the rest of the group to the other. I was relegated to the front seat. Our driver was short, stocky and presumably of Khmer decent considering his dark skin and flat nose. He drove for one and a half hours without saying a word and never taking his eyes off the road. For that matter, nobody in the minivan said a single word the entire time either. The road was completely empty barring an occasional car or moto, group of kids or wandering dogs. The ride was strange and I detected some level of tension and anxiety. Maybe it was the whole way the border crossing went down or the fact that, like us, everyone in van spent time reading up on and researching Cambodia's turbulent past. A past that only ceased to be violent and war torn within the last ten years.

The rich part of Cambodia's history centered around the thirteenth century when the Khmer empire all but ruled the majority of SE Asia. As a result of this great empire we are fortunate to be blessed with Angkor, one of the great wonders of the world. The disheartening part of Cambodia's history is far more recent and also is responsible for a legacy, one of fear, war and genocide. Like Laos and Vietnam, Cambodia was also a French territory. This ended in 1953 at the behest of Cambodia's King Norodom Sihanouk. In 1970, he was overthrown by the military as a result of his repressive policies. He fled to Beijing. Shortly thereafter, he was encouraged by the Chinese to affiliate himself with the then weak communist rebels known as the Khmer Rouge. This move proved to increase their popularity. Cambodia, due to its proximity, was also sucked into the war, perhaps reluctantly, as a result of the secret bombing by the United States shortly after the 1970 coup. It is estimated that a total of 500,000 tons of munitions were deposited in the country within 6000 raids. This attempt to flush out the communist failed miserably and after much interior conflict and warfare eventually resulted in the rise of the Khmer Rouge. The Khmer Rouge invaded and took the capital city of Phnom Penh on April 17, 1975.

This was the beginning of a four year revolution that would be one of the most violent and deadly in the history of the world. Under the leadership of Pol Pot, Cambodia was transformed into an 'agrarian' society, inspired by Maoist philosophy. The entire capital city of Phnom Penh was evacuated, as were most major cities, by the Khmer Rouge forces and its inhabitants forced to march, mostly by foot, into the country side where they would begin their lives as farmers and peasants. A national uniform of black shirt and pants with a red sash was instituted. People who had never seen a farm were forced to work one. Slowly but surely, the Khmer Rouge began to weed out any person that was suspected as a threat to the 'Angkar', or institution. This included anyone who was educated, a professional, spoke a foreign language and even people who wore glasses, as they were considered intellectuals. Within the next four years, approximately 2,000,000 Cambodians would be killed in an attempt to purify the country of racial impurities, capitalism and western influences. Those who were considered the ideal citizens of renamed Kampuchea faired no better as famine, disease and malnutrition would also take their tole. In spite of the entire country working as an agrarian cooperative, food rations were inequitably distributed with the bulk of the harvests being traded to China in exchange for weaponry. It is estimated that nearly one fourth of Cambodia's entire population was decimated during the reign of the Khmer Rouge.

In late 1978, Vietnamese forces invaded Cambodia and were able to overthrow the Khmer Rouge and send them into the jungles along the Thailand border. The Vietnamese forces were the liberators of the Cambodian people. This did not conclude the conflict, as guerrilla warfare continued throughout the country by surviving Khmer Rouge forces. This fighting did not cease until the death of the Khmer Rouge leader, Pol Pot, in 1998.

The scars from these conflicts are still very fresh and the people of Cambodia continue to suffer post-war casualties in the form of land mines and live munitions. It is estimated that seven to nine million live mines still exist on Cambodian soil, though no one is sure of the actual numbers. This dilemma is far too real and one is advised to NEVER wander of the beaten path. We have even read that if you need to relieve yourself while driving, remain on the asphalt to do so. There is further evidence of this travesty in the form of an overwhelming amount of amputees, including mostly children and farmers. There is an evil paradigm in this country where the one force that can give you life, the harvesting of your crops for food, can also kill you.




The good news is that there are countless NGO's (non-government organizations) located in Cambodia that are doing there best to assist the various needs of people living in a post-war world. We were even fortunate enough to visit the Cambodian Land Mine Museum, where Cambodian Aki Ra is also working to make a difference. Aki was a child soldier for the Khmer Rouge and at 11 years old was assigned to the laying of land mines. Near the end of the conflict, he was drafted by the invading Vietnamese forces and at the age of fourteen, helped to fight and topple the Khmer Rouge. Today, he works feverishly to try and recover all the land mines that he was forced to lay and many others. He can disarm and remove up to 26 mines per hour and up to 100 square meters a day. It can cost up to $500 dollars to remove one land mine. It can cost as little as $3 to manufacture one. With the help of his wife, they also run a home for child victims of land mine accidents. Aki is a true hero of war. There are also other people working very hard to rid the world of land mines. There is the OTTAWA convention for the suspension of the manufacture and use of all forms of explosive mines. Over 155 countries have signed this treaty. To date, America has not signed the treaty (along with Russia and China) and states that the military wishes to continue with the use of land mines. Currently the US is laying land mines on the south side of the Korean border.

For more information, please visit... http://www.cambodialandminemuseum.org/

LOW DOWN ON LAOS

Sunday, May 24th @ 17:52

Kevin

Lan Xang, or “Land of a Million Elephants”, as it was named by warlord Fa Ngum in the 14th century, later became known as Laos (with a silent “s”) in the 18th century when the French negotiated with Siam for its ownership and renamed it. Unlike much of Asia, the population of Laos is a mere 6.5 million people, or equal to the size of a large Western city. Laos is a landlocked nation surrounded on all sides by its neighbors, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and China.
In 1953, France granted Laos full sovereignty and just in time for a civil war to begin brewing between the Communist supported Pathet Lao and the Democratic (US) supported Royal Lao. From 1965 to 1973 the US, in an attempt to counter the presence of North Vietnamese forces, devastated east and northeast Laos with constant carpet bombing. This is often referred to as the Secret War. When the US withdrew in 1973, the country was in shambles, domestic support against democracy and in favor of the communist increased, the civil war ended and the People's Democratic Republic was born. It was only recently, within the last decade or so, that Laos reopened its tightly sealed borders and began allowing a steady stream of tourists to mount a new type of invasion. This country, like most of its Southeast Asian neighbors, is primarily Buddhist, and of the Theravada tradition.










We arrived in Vientiane, the capital city of Laos, in the early evening of Friday, May 15th, with just enough time to wait for the rain to stop, grab some cash and have dinner by the shore of the Mekong river. Our guest house, though on the main strip, was nothing special and was simply chosen because of its proximity and the fact that we did not feel much like shopping around in the heavy rains resulting from the start of the monsoon season in this part of the world. On our first full day we attempted to beat the afternoon rains by starting early. As is our most recent tradition, the day begins with a breakfast which includes the most majestic coffee mixed with sweet condensed milk and ice and a French inspired, and very tasty, baguette in some form of a sandwich. This particular day, we visited a historic wooden wat (temple) known as Ha Pha Kaew, followed by the most amazing and awe inspiring Wat Si Saket, the oldest wat in Vientiane, built by King Anounvong in 1818, which contains over 10,000 statues of the Buddha ranging from the 15th to the 19th centuries. Then on to Patuxai, Vientiane's equivalent to the Arc de Triomphe, where we climbed to the top for a view of the city, and surprisingly enough did some souvenir shopping on of its interior chambers. Last was Pha That Luang, a brilliant golden stupa that is the national symbol of sovereignty and the Buddhist religion. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived it was closed and we could not enter, but it is just as impressive from outside the low perimeter wall.

The following day was another round of sightseeing with a 25km bus ride to the outskirts of the city to a place called Xieng Khuan, better known as Buddha Park. Upon arrival and inspection, we found this grassy field alongside the Mekong river with towering sculptures akin to Coral Castle, for those of you who have been there and have been fortunate enough to marvel at its grandeur! Built in 1958 by an eccentric yogi/priest/shaman, known as Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, Xieng Khuan (or spirit world) contains several concrete statues of Hindu and Buddhist deities as well as one very odd egg shaped structure that you can enter to view several floors of diorama scenes of...well, I am not really sure. The following day, Monday, turned out to be all business. Hearing conflicting information regarding the status of visa requirements for the “unofficial” land crossing into Cambodia, we decided to visit its embassy early in the morning and inquire with those in the know. As it turned out, we were able to fill out a visa application on the spot and returned later that day to pick up our now slightly heavier passports containing our approved single entry visas into the Kingdom of Cambodia. There was also just enough time to upload the most recent post, check emails and spend some quality time in the “air conditioned” post office writing out and mailing post cards, if you did not yet get one check your mail box, before catching a tuk-tuk to a mini-bus, a mini-bus to a large sleeper bus, a large sleeper bus to a VIP bus, a VIP bus to a short walk, a short walk to a long tail boat, a long tail boat to the island of Don Det, in the southern tip of Laos known as Si Phan Don, or the Four Thousand Islands and then a very long and hot 2.5km walk, with backpacks in tow, to the final resting spot of Don Khon Island.







Originally, we expected to spend a week in this area. However, after four days, two of sightseeing on bikes and two doing absolutely nothing but soaking in the placid scenery and sound of the river, we decided to move on. Not only would this get us into Cambodia a bit faster, it would also help us to make up a few days to tack on to the next paradise location that we may encounter. The people of the island were great and life there was very similar to island life anywhere, lots of fishing, sleeping, drinking, reading and relaxing, primarily in the two hammocks provided on our bungalow's cantilevered balcony. Four days turned out to be plenty of time for lazing around, seeing several waterfalls, some sandy beaches, a few hikes around the river banks and one rain soaked bicycle ride that had us taking cover in an abandoned school house and sharing mangoes and the magic of a combination bike lock with some of the local kids. A beautiful place, a fantastic experience and a chance to connect with people of a country that are fighting to preserve their culture, protect their environment and maintain balance in a world whose not so distant past has been riddled with death and destruction.

WOWED IN LAOS

Monday, May 11th @ 17:50

Kevin

We left our beloved respite in Pai, for a return to the cultural capital of Thailand, Chiang Mai. We had to return here in order to catch our bus to Chiang Khong, at the border with Laos. But before we were to spend seven hours on a bus, we were to see to a couple of last minute accomplishments. The first was to enter the new blog post (see how we prioritize for your benefit?), then, it was off to have one last meal at our favorite little restaurant, Tanya, then, a stop in for two authentic Thai messages, and last, attend one more Muay Thai event.

The Thai messages were the first we had and were amazing. They require the assistance of the recipient as it is an interactive affair that includes, in addition to deep kneading, a series of twists, pulls, folds and bends. Unlike deep tissue messages back west, with the Thai massage you are fully clothed in traditional dress, consisting of fisherman pants and a light cotton guayabera type top. Our last Muay Thai fight attended involved four people I had trained with at the True Bee Gym in Pai. Three of the participants were the young Thai kids I had befriended, Yoddoi (Champion) 10, Areshi (Spikey) 11 and, Arenu (B-Boy) 14. The last was a farang, or foreigner, from Switzerland named Dadawoo, or Megadeath as he was more commonly known. The two youngest lost their bouts to opponents that appeared to be slightly over sized and older. However, they gave stellar performances, staying in for the entire five rounds and only losing only by decision. Many of the foreigners that had been training made it to the match and each of us was generous in our distribution of applause and praise to each of them for doing so great. Arenu, also being mismatched with a much older boy took a couple off heavy hits in the beginning that seemed to shake something loose as he returned by dominating the remaining four rounds and winning by a technical knock-out. He was, by far, the MVP of the evening. Then, there was Megadeath, who in his debut fight showed complete calm and poise as he slowly and methodically dismantled his Thai opponent, even proffering to show Western respect by buying him a beer after the match. We bought and enjoyed our own beers from any number of the lady boys tending the bar that evening. Overall, the event was incredibly exciting, though somewhat stressful, and it was great to be there as part of a team and to experience first hand the type of respect and pride that is the cornerstone of this national sport.

We arrived at Chiang Khong just in time to complete our exiting paperwork and take a ferry across the Mekong River to the city of Huay Xai (pronounced why-sai) on the Laos border. Again, a round of paperwork and a visa application and fee and we had once again successfully traversed another frontier. We crossed over in the ferry with three other travelers. We had dinner with one of them that night and he would be Matias from Germany. While indulging in our first Laotian meal, we invited another traveler to join us who was also named Matias and was also from Germany. The two Matias' and us spent an evening indulging in authentic cuisine, our first round of Beer Lao and a stroll through the wat (temple), where the monks treated us to a cacophony of drum beats and clashing symbols and into an adjacent neighborhood to meet a self proclaimed rapper and emcee who would give us an impromptu freestyle rap with verses in Lao, English, Spanish and French. We would return to our guest house forty-five minutes after it had closed, which was rather early, and would have to wake up the attendant before going to our rooms and retiring for the evening.





The next morning we would say our goodbyes as each of us was headed in different directions. Ours would be a two day long slow boat journey to Luang Prabang, with a night's stop over in Pak Beng. A slow and grueling ride in what is known as a long boat on wooden benches that was compensated by some of the most amazing scenery and river side glimpses into the lives of the local villagers. We saw albino buffaloes, naked, dancing children, limestone karsts jutting from the water and a fisherman holding up a catfish he caught that was almost as long as him. After an eight hour journey on the second day we arrived at the docks of Luang Prabang at the base of the Mighty Mekong.

Too tired to do anything, we had a small meal and retired for the evening. The next day, however, we had breakfast at a small restaurant located inside a UNESCO heritage site, a building constructed in 1935. We walked around the city, crossing the Khan River on an old rickety bamboo bridge and sat on a rock where the Khan and Mekong rivers converged, where we read the do's and don'ts of traveling in Laos and marveled at the fact that we were actually here. We also visited the wat (temple), stupa and statues at the top of Mount Phu Si, overlooking the city, where I would be touched on the shoulder by monks on two separate occasions. We would end the evening strolling through the night market and eating from various vendors on the street.






Thursday, May 14, 2009 9:47 AM

Idalis:

We have become very distrustful of our guidebook.

It's been our experience that if Lonely Planet describes a city as “bustling,” that usually means “chaotic.” “Charming yet confounding” is code for “the locals will rip you off” and “more adventure than holiday” just means “India.” It's very important to read between the lines! So, when our guidebook described Luang Prabang as “chanting,” “diverse,” and “perhaps the most sophisticated, photogenic city in the whole of Southeast Asia,” we took it with a grain of salt. But . . .

Ladies and gentlemen, we have a winner!

Luang Prabang, in northern Laos, is gorgeous. No wonder the whole city is a UNESCO-protected World Heritage site. French influence is still visible here, from its old French mansions to its delicious baguettes and coffee, both served with sticky sweet condensed milk! It has beautiful wats, green mountains, orange-robed monks, magnolia-laced streets, and loads of charm!

Yesterday, we decided to be masochists and rented bikes to cycle the 32 kilometers it took to get to Tat Kuang Si, a beautiful, multi-tiered waterfall. Although a scary ascent (Kevin made me do it!), the climb to the top of the mountain was the biggest reward. We found a tucked-away section where the limestone formations held a series of (cold!) turquoise-green pools of water. Although I threw a hissy fit to get there (Q: Why does Kevin always choose to ignore my fear of heights?) I'm glad I was forced. It was breathtaking, and the whole day is one we won't soon forget. We had a soggy picnic lunch (it started to rain) at one of the lower pools after sliding down the muddy path (I fell, of course!) but it cleared up just in time for Kevin to swing like a monkey off a hanging rope into one of the deep pools. Just so you know, he waited 20 minutes after eating so as not to get a cramp ;)





We could've hired a tuk tuk for the 32 kilometers back, but why make things easy? We hopped on our bikes and prayed for lots of downhill slopes. Some of it was so challenging and steep that we just got off the bikes and walked up, but the scenery was amazing: rice paddies, bright green mountains, and smiling mothers with their children yelling “Sabaai-dii!” We are paying for it today, with very sore bottoms that feel as red as a baboon's, but we're smiling and proud of our 64 kilometer (40-mile) accomplishment!

This morning we woke up early at 5 AM to watch the daily tak bat, when locals give alms of sticky rice and other food to the hundreds of orange-clad monks who pass by with their begging bowls. What a sight! The tradition has continued for hundreds of years, and as most Lao men have been monks for at least a short time in their life, it was interesting to see how the community supports this rite of passage.




Today will be our last day here. Tomorrow we head south to the capital, Vientiane. But today, we will rest our weary bottoms and be sure to find seats at our favorite cafe with VERY soft cushions!

PAI IN THE SKY

Monday, May 4, 2009 10:00 AM

Idalis:

Every once in a while, we find a place to take a vacation from our vacation. The little town of Pai, nestled in northern Thailand's hills, is exactly that. We arrived at this mountain paradise a week ago, and are having a very hard time finding the heart to leave!

Our simple little bungalow on stilts, perched on the banks of the Pai River, has become our new home. The attached bathroom makes us laugh, half covered and half exposed to the elements, you can shower while looking at the green mountains (and also get rained on if you have to pee during a storm!). At night, so quiet is this side of the river, that the frogs, birds, and “uh-oh” geckos lull us to sleep.

The town of Pai itself is beautiful. Part of the old “hippie trail,” it has retained its laid-back feel. The restaurants and shops in town are creatively decorated, inviting you to taste their yummy noodles or buy their linen clothes. One of our favorite restaurants, Na's Kitchen, is no secret. People come in all day and night to sample tom khaa kai (coconut soup with chicken and galangal) or one of the many delicious kaeng (curries). We now have an addiction to Thai iced tea, bright orange and served with condensed milk. Last night, we were introduced to mukata, or Thai barbecue, for the first time. Our group was given a large metal dome, surrounded by a shallow moat, that sat on a clay pot with flaming hot coals. Each diner is in control of their entire meal, as they place various types of meat on the dome to be grilled as an assembly of greens, water and seafood stew in the moat. All this for 80 baht (about $2.50). It is a do-it-yourself all-you-can-eat affair! We even sampled fried crickets at the local market, tasty if you don't think about what they are!

We have met such friendly and interesting people while here, and striking up conversations is easy to do while lounging in one of the hammocks at our guest house's communal sala. Noah is from Holland, Sauli from Finland, and Jenny is from England. Alex from Costa Rica has been our official tour guide, as he's been here the longest. One day, the six of us rented scooters and visited one of the local waterfalls, hot springs in the jungle, and then went to watch the sun set at Pai Canyon. A perfect day! We have become fast friends, and will often meet up for dinner or just talk into the wee hours of the night over a Chang beer.







There's a lot to do here besides swinging in a hammock or stuffing your face. Kevin has been taking muay thai boxing lessons twice a day. While he's kicking and throwing punches in the morning, I practice yoga facing the river. Yesterday we went on an elephant ride! A touristy activity here in Thailand, yes, but a must-do for me, regardless. It was so much fun, although with nothing to hold on to, I was REALLY nervous during the steep descents. We got to bathe the elephant in the river, or rather, it bathed us! Today we will get Thai massages and enjoy our last days here. In a few days, we will return to Chiang Mai and then make our way to the Laos border. But for now, we are truly enjoying our Earth-bound “Pai in the Sky!”





LIFE OF PAI

Tuesday, May 5 @ 15:20

Kevin

My day begins at 7:20AM when the clock alarm goes off. I lay in bed for another five minutes and then it is on to the shower and into some work out clothes. I stumble out of the elevated bamboo bungalow that hugs the bank of the Pai river and walk about 100 meters into the 'True Bee Muay Thai Boxing Gym'. It contains a boxing ring and a work out area located under a canopy cover and surrounded by stunning vistas of the Pai mountain range. There are a few dogs that usually hang around and fighting roosters located in wicker cages that crow during our morning workouts. There are about ten people that attend the morning class, from 8 to 10, and another ten or so that attend the afternoon class, from 3 to 5. I attend both sessions and am about the only one who is not training long term, professionally or preparing for an upcoming fight.

The Muay Thai gym is owned and operated by Roengam Chomthong, better known as Bee. He is a 32 year old champion Muay Thai fighter. He also receives help from his brother, known as 'A', and trainers Wantree and Mitiporng. Together they run the 'True Bee' camp. We start our sessions with some skipping (jump rope), then into the ring for a round of calisthenics. After that, we get our hands wrapped in tape and move to the floor to practice our punches, kicks, blocks and combinations. One by one, we are called into the ring to go four rounds attempting to pummel our trainers who are heavily clad in padding and call out shots and combinations. Between each round we take water from the three little Thai boys who Bee is currently training free of charge. They are small, but they are powerful and focused. The remaining students are all farang, or foreigners, and many come specifically to train with Bee and usually stay long term. Of those training, two will be showcased in upcoming fights.

After training four hours a day for three days, I am shot. My legs hurt, my shins hurt and my feet hurt. However, Sunday is an off day and we celebrate the week's training with a barbecue on Saturday night. Most of the trainees show up and we share grilled meat, chicken and pork along with some Thai whiskey with soda water. I end my short Muay Thai career having 0 wins, 0 losses and 1 near knockout, but also make a bunch of new friends and gain a new appreciation for this sport and all the people who participate in it. As I write this, we lie down in the bed of the guesthouse that we just procured a few minutes ago here in Chang Mai. Leaving Pai was not easy, but our travels continue this Friday with a bus ride to the Laos border. In the meantime, we will have dinner at a Mexican restaurant to celebrate Cinco de Mayo and will go to one last Muay Thai fight to see the three small boys and one farang, from the Real Bee Gym, in their debut matches here at the Taphae Stadium. I spent every day after class swimming in the Pai River with the Thai boys, who I nicknamed 'B-Boy', 'Champion', and 'Spikey' and can't wait to see them in the ring, living their dream. A perfect send off and a great way to remember my life in Pai.